Varietal Spice at Soquel Vineyards

November 25, 2022 – On a late sunny Sunday afternoon at Soquel Vineyards, the clouds were lining up to paint another spectacular sunset, and visitors were pouring in at a steady pace, filling up the parking lot and tables, set against the brilliant gold backdrop of the estate vineyard. In the distance, the ocean yawned in all its calm deep lapis boredom, like a gem cradled in the palm of a mermaid distracted by a surfing contest. 

Peter Bargetto had just sent his son home, as the traffic had been pretty slow: a surefire way to guarantee you are going to get slammed. As the cars poured in and the wine poured out, he put on his best “Bear with me, this is my first time doing this!” routine, which of course charmed all the newcomers, none the wiser. Little did they know. 

But the wines can speak pretty well for themselves, except the ones that have already been tapped out, like the Pinot Grigio. “What? You only have one white?” a customer complained, after tasting the first wine, a 2021 Chardonnay from Pleasant Valley Farms that was done in 50% new oak and 50% in stainless steel, trying to straddle the line. Ripe comice pear and Meyer lemon meet toasty warm oak to create the flavors of a pear tart with a buttery hazelnut crumb topping. Bargetto explained that they had sold out their Pinot Gris, and the next vintage would not be ready until February. The disappointment on her face was clear. It seems we all need to pack a little more patience these days, as our favorite things are also other people’s favorite things. Think of it this way: you are not alone on the planet in wanting the current “it” thing, as Swifties sure learned the hard way. 

Cultivating a more adventurous palate is a sure way to avoid disappointment and increase the chances you will learn something new. Perhaps you will discover something that totally hits pleasure sensors you didn’t know you had. 

Take Nebbiolo, for example. There is not much of it planted in California, and for good reason, as it requires just the right amount of heat and a bit of fog influence: it’s a delicate dance that can produce wines of profound allure. Robin and Mark Porter of Lago Lomita (LagoLomitaNeb) are certainly to be applauded for growing it at their vineyard off Loma Prieta Avenue, just beyond Wrights Station. Peter Bargetto has a fascination with Italian varietals and has been making Nebbiolo from this site for a few vintages now. The first, the 2019 Soquel Vineyards Nebbiolo from Lago Lomita Vineyard won a Best of Class at the 2021 San Francisco Chronicle Competition, where it was lauded for its ripe red cherry, red licorice and candied apple. The 2020, picked a bit riper and clocking in at 14.5% alcohol, is definitely even smoother than the 2019, showing fine tannins, very ripe red cherry, macerated   strawberries with hints of basil, capers and coriander spice. The acid is pretty right on, making for a good food wine that will impress the heck out of guests. For $50, it’s certainly a sophisticated wine. 

Back to that 2021 Pleasant Valley Vineyard Chardonnay ($30): it comes from a 10-acre vineyard in the Pleasant Valley area of Corralitos that also happens to be planted to Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc. This is not to be confused with the property that was formerly known as Pleasant Valley Vineyards, which was started by Cathy and Craig Handley, whose labels featured beautiful renderings of guitars, cars and cattle, and which is now called Frances J. The property where this Chardonnay starts is in fact better known for its extra virgin olive oil grown, harvested, milled and bottled under the Pleasant Valley Farms label. Bargetto also makes Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc from this 26-acre spot on Pleasant Valley Road that is near the Cistercian Monastery of Our Lady of Grace. Perhaps this explains why the property is doubly blessed with grapes and olives. Bargetto says they have five acres of Pinot Noir, three acres of Chardonnay, one acre of Cab Franc and one acre of Sauvignon Blanc, and he has dibs on it all. He says the Pinot is amazing, with Vosne-Romanée and Chalone clones, along with others. 

Although the Pinot Noir was not on the tasting flight, the 2021 Cabernet Franc from Pleasant Valley Vineyard  ($30) was, and it was quite Franc-ish, in all the best ways, showing alluring aromas of rose petals, raspberries and blackberries ripening on the bush, and pleasing hints of pine and bay. On the smooth, almost velvety palate, it shows impressive integration of tannins for such a young wine, along with a smack of heat in the form of Hatch green chile. A most impressive wine that will make pairing complex and spicy southwest fare a lot of fun. Its plentiful acid component portends a long and happy life. Snap this one up. Hard to find Santa Cruz Mountains Franc at this price that delivers so much character and does not try to be anything but its Franc-ish self. 

The Santa Cruz Mountains are indeed blessed with an abundance of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but there’s so much more varietal variety to explore here in these hills, where each little mountaintop has its very own climate. 

On this Thanksgiving holiday weekend, as we count our blessings, may we never forget that freedom of choice is the cornerstone of this nation, and the opportunity to practice it every day, in countless ways, is what makes us great, and more importantly, abundantly grateful.