July 25, 2023 – It’s a most scary beautiful sushi situation.
Chef Genji Lee, instructed by his collaborator and fellow sushi master Hank Kim, lays three special pieces in front of me. The colors are striking, the composition creative, the freshness and flavor clear.
We’re part way into an odyssey of a Sunday lunch. It’s already included a little bit of a lot (maybe a lot of a lot), which is the idea behind the triple revelation that is brand new Far East + Kitchen, which opened in Scotts Valley last month.
That’s embedded in the restaurant symbol, which looks like a simple circle.
Closer inspection reveals three overlapping rings, one for each country represented: China, Japan and Korean.
On this media visit—in which I invited Kim to steer whatever direction he chose—China gets some shine from house pickled green beans. Korea represents with a bowl of balanced bibimbap. And Japan comes strong with a strapping plate of sashimi.
The menu also traverses mapo tofu, bulgogi, doenjang stew, galbi, udon noodles, dumpling soups, poke towers, special rolls, sushi rolls, vegetarian rolls and a bunch more options.
But on this visit it’s the so-called “fusion nigiri” rolls that steal the stage.
There are five various bombs in his arsenal, like the Icarus Dream with hamachi, ikura red roe and quail egg and the Tornado with salmon, avocado, unagi and macadamia nut.
Each frightens me with its girth then seduces with its looks, taste profile and mouth-melt. I chew real slow and easy, stretching the experience and cheeks.
Those in the know will not be surprised with Kim’s cunning. In cultivating Mika in Carmel Valley, which he and his wife Young recently sold, the strengths were design, vibe and invention.
He pulled a Bill and Teresa Lee out there, swearing that restaurant, his fifth, would be his last.
Nope.
Scotts Valley locals appear happy he was bluffing. A half dozen tables buzz with contentment for the food and amusement at the robot that delivers trays to tables.
The space is airy and ample, with polished wood, soaring ceilings and a sizable sushi bar at its center—looking not so different from Sushi Garden which previously occupied the building.
The lunch and dinner box value (with two items, miso soup, salad and rice) are sturdy, starting at $18.
The wine list is bigger than many Asian-leaning spots, with five house wines by the glass, around 20 bottles, a handful of beers, soju cocktails and a solid selection of sake and still-underrated shochu.
When he appears from the kitchen, Kim, like his wife Young, is smiling.
That is not news—they are a reliably happy, welcoming, outgoing couple, which lends itself well to the world of hospitality.
But squint just a little bit and it’s not hard to observe a bigger smile than normal.
He acknowledges he had a change of plan, which might just mean he’s sticking with the plan that’s worked for years.
“I’m always looking for something new,” he says. “Sometimes a good opportunity is too much to pass up.”
Which, like the symbol on the sign, brings everything full circle.
Far East + Kitchen • 5600 Scotts Valley Dr. Scotts Valley • fareastkitchen.menu11.com.
About the author
Mark C. Anderson, Edible Monterey Bay's managing editor, appears on "Friday Found Treasures" via KRML 94.7 every week, a little after 12pm noon. Reach him via mark@ediblemontereybay.com.
