September 29, 2023 – The original strategy for this story was a winning game plan.
The same can be said for the proposed $12 billion Howard Terminal ballpark and redevelopment project in Oakland’s scrappy harbor district, near Jack London’s Square.
Neither proved playable.
The previous blueprint for this piece: Shadow longtime Seaside resident and decorated chef Danny Abbruzzese through the kitchens, suites, bleachers and upper reaches of Oakland Coliseum on the last homestand of the season. (The A’s wrap their season on the road against the Anaheim Angels tonight, Saturday and Sunday.)
Merely detailing how many duties his role as executive chef for the Coliseum, as an employee of food provider Aramark—who also oversees Asilomar Hotel and Conference Grounds, where Abbruzzese pioneered green practices—would be revealing.
After all, he masterminds all the bulk concessions, premium concessions, in-seat dining, field box food, catered spreads in the lounge, Diamond Level goodies, player food (to spec), meals for Athletics staff, grub for Coliseum employees and, yes, even tasty grazing for press.
In short, he’s got a lineup longer than A’s coach Mark Kotsay.
Only given the swirling firestorm about recent news that A’s owner John Fisher aims to relocate the proud franchise to Las Vegas has intensified fan disgust and front office discomfort.
The higher-ups’ paraphrased thoughts on my plan: Right now, no media is good media.
Which is a bummer, especially since I would rather focus on something the A’s do as well as anyone in the league (helmet nachos and press box food) rather than the worst (facility upkeep and…winning games).
We don’t have to get too deep into the uncertain future of the A’s here. Suffice to say the most popular game day uniform is a t-shirt with four letters on it: SELL.
For those so inspired for more on that front, ESPN Daily has done an expert job of laying out what’s ahead, including the possibility of several more years—at least—at the Coliseum.
Abbruzzese, by the way, would dig that.
“I love my job,” he’s told me at least once, and sold Seaside Seafood Market to free up more time for him and his partners Andrea and Anthony Guajuardo.
Instead of peeking behind the Coliseum curtain, I’m plying the mind of Abbruzzese, and coming with applicable tips for readers focused on three of his specialties. I am not relocating to Vegas.
You love your job. When do you feel most alive in it?
Two hours before the game. That’s when it all happens—starting to fire food for the whole stadium in our commissary kitchen. It’s just a trip.
What types of things go into a major league player’s pre-game meal?
What they want is a focus on light food that won’t sit on their stomach—salads, sandwiches, chicken teriyaki and rice, açai bowls, fruit—designed around all variable diets. Some players eat tons of protein. Whatever we serve, we’re trying to give them foods to give them energy to perform on the field.
Aramark manages properties all over—including Asilomar, 10 MLB stadiums, Red Rocks Amphitheatre. What do people miss with them?
They’re leaders in food safety, and committed to sustainability, which is important to me—and that’s manifested through packaging, seafood choices, high quality local produce, the best meats. A lot of the [venues] are pushed toward certain products. It’s ultimately quality driven and then Aramark figures out ways to scale the quality into the corporate mold of profitability.
I’ve been in and out of a lot of supply chain challenges, and one of the coolest things I’ve helped with is getting the first organic farm approved by Aramark: Coke Farms [of San Juan Bautista]. It took a couple years to pass all third-party inspections, but we did it.
What lessons from your time at Portola Hotel and Asilomar Conference Grounds apply?
I’m one of the best banquet chefs out there. It’s a product of working a la carte. And it’s the finishing and organizing. To bridge the gap between a la carte and catering/banquet—high quantity—is understanding how to organize production and execution and then firing and finishing.
A to X is one thing: the product ordered, prepped out, ready to cook, going in the cooler, getting out, in an efficient manner. Then the focus shifts over to X to Z. Kudos to Chef Cal Stamenov. Not one I’ve worked with out there—and I’ve worked with a lot of chefs—matches that guy’s finishing on the plate.
Favorite thing to cook at home these days?
The freshest vegetables, simply prepared. You have to trick my kid into eating vegetables. I’ll roast carrots and do a honey sauce and incorporate cashews. A lot of things with dipping sauce. I’ll blanch broccoli, asparagus or green beans, then have hummus on the side or some tzatziki.
Vegetables work as a center-of-plate item for us a lot. I’ll roast off a whole cauliflower—bake it with lemon butter, parsley, breadcrumbs, maybe pour some gouda cheese sauce over it. The cauliflower around here is amazing.
Go-to seasoning? Local ingredient?
Salt and pepper used the proper way is one of the most important parts of cooking.
Trying to narrow it down to an item around here is difficult. After all, this is one of the best growing regions in the world, so I just take advantage of all the peak seasonal products, and apply minimal techniques to maximize or accentuate the flavor.
OK…extra innings. I’d love your best tips around some of your strengths: 1) For outstanding local barbecue, which Edible highlighted a while back with your help; 2. Your favorite Monterey-area green food operations; and 3) Cooking for friends at home. What coaching do you have for Edible readers?
1) For barbecue, I’d say Bon Ton L’Roy’s Lighthouse Smokehouse [in New Monterey]. I worked with [pitboss and co-owner] Lenny Leon at Bernardus. I just like the purity. He does barbecue the way it’s supposed to be done.
2) For a good green kitchen: Matt Bolton and Neil Dunn at C Restaurant and the InterContinental Hotel. They do a great job with sustainability. (Author side note: I checked in with Bolton and he’s got a new seasonal menu that includes the reintroduction of Monterey Bay abalone, which he does as well as anyone. He adds happy hour has been “popping”—with wine by the glass and weekly specialty cocktails and snacks like duck confit croquettes, arancini, pulled pork sliders—and that they have a Miner Wine Dinner coming up on Nov. 16.)
3) When it comes to cooking for a group, think about what you can do ahead of time, and what you should focus on to finish it correctly. Take a dinner—say, filet, asparagus, twice-baked potatoes and green peppercorn sauce. You have time to produce the twice-baked on the front end. Green pepper sauce you have hours to get it correct. Asparagus is the thing I would focus on on the back end. Do not cook the hell out of it. You want it fresh—al dente and green.
Another example: You make an arugula salad with goat cheese, grilled peaches and watermelon radish, and you can make all of it ahead of time and toss it before you serve. Many would soak sliced radishes in water. Instead, get a mandolin and shave over the salad at the very end. Focus on the finish.
What can you say about the future of the A’s without getting in trouble?
The future of the A’s…(sighs). I’m a man who lives his life with show-me-don’t-tell-me. It’s actions that speak louder than words. You can deduce a lot from their actions—whether it’s payroll, stalling with the city, the relationship with Raiders—while understanding actions are everything. That’s where the truth lies.
Some might be surprised that you have a kid ranked #1 nationally in BMX bike racing. What’s it like seeing your 7-year-old win races around the country?
The whole BMX thing, wow. The competition has surprised me—the commitment it takes to do the overall sport. I was an avid mountain bike rider but this is different. The absolute rush is crazy. It’s like a half horse race with a 35-second track.
And the kids race with no fear—and have to. You have to own the space you’re in. You have to have the gumption and courage to follow through your path. You’re gonna bump bars, but have to keep that much fortitude to own your line.
Sounds like A’s ownership should have a chat with your kid.
His motives are pure, committed and competitive. We can all learn something from that.
About the author
Mark C. Anderson, Edible Monterey Bay's managing editor, appears on "Friday Found Treasures" via KRML 94.7 every week, a little after 12pm noon. Reach him via mark@ediblemontereybay.com.
