The new plates flying out of Jacks Monterey at the Portola Hotel & Spa speak for themselves, in part because of compelling details—a Peninsula staple like calamari, only done tempura style, with white miso aioli and chili lime vinaigrette; potato gnocchi with maitake mushrooms and Point Reyes blue cheese; sesame ginger rice bowls with “motley” kale; local salmon with hoisin-simmered seasonal vegetables, opal basil and vermicelli noodles.
On top of that, what really speaks to a new era—and typically ambitious one—for the pioneering food program is its leadership.
Three people leading the reinvigoration of Jacks Monterey, as COVID constrictions progressively lessen their grip, explain their take on the restaurant’s California Cultural Cuisine.
The first among them is new executive chef Carl Ashurst. New, as in he’s fresh to the position.
Not-so-new, in that he’s been a stalwart part of the team since Portola Hotel became a linchpin part of downtown Monterey, now in the lead position for what their kitchen wants to accomplish.
Fittingly enough, he feels most alive on the job when crafting entrees and working with his team out of sight of the dining room.
“I always feel alive when I’m in the kitchen,” he says. “There’s so much to do behind the scenes, but in those moments when I get to chop up some vegetables or sear some steaks, that’s when I thrive.”
His enthusiasm gains momentum when the topic turns to the current offerings they’ve been working on, nonstop, for weeks and months.
“The best way I can describe our new menu is that we’re trying to give guests the best of both worlds,” he says.
Those worlds would be Portola’s ongoing approach to fresh and local, with an influx of creativity from new executive sous chef Hector Berumen.
“We’ve been trying to branch out to incorporate the many cultures present in California,” Ashurst says. “It’s been fun getting together with Hector to brainstorm amazing dishes and refine them.”
While he demurs on revealing all the creations they’re preparing, he teases audiences with word of an “amazing”—and perhaps unusual—surf ’n’ turf, and sautéed sand dabs paired with a lemon butter sauce and fresh jasmine rice.
“Berumen has such a different cooking style than I do—in the best way—and I think guests will be excited to see how we’re blending these different styles,” Ashurst says.
Keeping with the theme, Berumen experiences the biggest rush on the job when creating unprecedented recipes.
“There’s no better feeling than making a new dish, having everyone sample it, and hearing all the feedback,” he says.
Berumen got his start as a dishwasher decades ago and hit it off with the head chef.
“I could just feel his passion for food,” Berumen says. “He took a liking to me and started showing me the beauty of cooking and pairing different ingredients together. I absorbed some of his passion and just knew I had to be a chef one day.”
Part of the joy he experiences working at Portola comes from working with the drinks Portola offers.
“My favorite element about what’s evolving at Jacks Monterey and Peter B’s Brewpub is our consideration of beverage pairings when creating new dishes,” Berumen says. “We’re constantly thinking of ways to complement our dishes with the amazing craft beer that’s brewed on site and all the wines and cocktails we have available at Jacks.”
Another key ingredient: chemistry.
“With our team, my favorite thing is the community we’re building here,” he says. “There’s been a lot of changes since the pandemic and it’s really forced us to build this bond together. Joining the team was a little intimidating, but has been very rewarding.”
A key piece of connective tissue between edible and potable on property would be Brian Hein, director of food and beverage.
He thinks guests might be surprised by how the latest iteration of Jacks Monterey makes what they did well better—which includes ramping up to daily breakfast and dinner and adding an on-point takeout menu.
“It was a slow progression…but since we’ve opened Jacks seven days a week, business is booming and to-go food has never tasted so good,” he says. “Both Ashurst and Berumen are incorporating their personal styles and expertise as we explore menu updates for the coming season.”
He also spotlights team cohesion as a strong point.
“I’m proudest of the community our team has built,” he says. “They all have each other’s back and have created an environment of proactive service with a smile. They’re engaging, attentive and inspired to deliver a sophisticated dining experience.”
Like Berumen, he’s inspired by the way food mates with the dynamic drinks from the likes of lead bartender Tuyet Vitacca, creator of the award-winning cocktail Asian Persuasion; head brewer Natalie Mika; and the restaurant’s Wine Spectator award-winning wine program and its focus on wines from Monterey County.
“The staff at Jacks strive to create an exceptional experience for hotel guests and locals alike,” he says.
When the questions turn toward when he feels most alive on the job, the answer seems easy: when he’s interacting with eaters.
“As I’ve dined out, I’ve noticed that managers seem to not enjoy working the floor,” he says. “Yet, what is the best feedback for your team? The direct feedback of the guests regarding their experience!”
He wonders how any hospitality operation can best upgrade their service without soliciting that dialogue.
“Our industry is about building relationships and taking time to get to know our guests lets them know they are important to us,” he says. “Guests enjoy a team who makes an impact on their dining experience by creating lasting memories.
“We should always take advantage of that opportunity.”
Portola Hotel long ago established a pattern of doing things differently. The downtown Monterey landmark established new standards in excellence from the big picture (exemplary sustainability certifications and the materials in their rooms) to the seemingly small (the hyper-fresh Coke Farms romaine lettuce on the Mighty Caesar Salad).
Now it’s translating that pattern and its principles to an eye-catching fresh start.
More at portolahotel.com/dining.
About the author
At Edible Monterey Bay, our mission is to celebrate the local food culture of Santa Cruz, San Benito and Monterey Counties, season by season. We believe in sustainability, and we believe everyone has a right to healthful, clean and affordable food. We think knowing where our food comes from is powerful, and we hope our magazine, website and newsletters inspire readers to get to know and support our local growers, fishers, chefs, vintners and food artisans.
