September 30, 2014 – Did you know that there was once a Southern Pacific Coast Railroad route that took folks from Los Gatos to the beaches of Santa Cruz? Back in the 19th and early 20th centuries, there were several stations along the corridor now served exclusively by Highway 17, and Dan Lokteff’s newly opened Wrights Station Winery is named for one of them.
The long-abandoned town of Wrights, which dates to 1879, when a post office was established at the station, is named for the man who established vineyards, orchards and a stagecoach hotel—a tourist destination at the end of the 19th century. With nearly 3,200 acres of fruit in the Summit region, mostly plums and grapes, Wrights became an important freight station for getting goods to market.
Although the station is gone, some of the tracks still remain, along with the remnants of the 1.5-mile tunnel completed in 1880 by Chinese laborers. During World War II, fearing invasion of the homeland by the Japanese, locals filled in this and other railway tunnels to discourage their use as enemy hideaways.
Wrights Station winery is located just five minutes from Highway 17 just off Summit Road, a stone’s throw from Burrell School Vineyards. The label bears homage to a railroad signal post.
Nestled in a sweet swale bordered by orchards, Christmas tree farms and a huge swath of redwoods, the vineyard is lovely to behold. It was planted in 1981 to Chardonnay (Wente clone 4) and in 2000 to Pinot Noir (667, 777). It was a favorite of Cinnabar Winemaker George Troquato’s, as well as that of Winemaker Andrew Brenkwitz of Byington, who bottled it under its original vineyard name of Quenneville.
Winemaker/proprietor Dan Lokteff, an early eBay officer who tested the platform by purchasing wine, interned at Storrs before beginning his own wine production at Byington Winery. After purchasing the current Wrights Station property in 2008, he restored two beautiful equestrian barns, turning them into a crushpad and winery storage facility.
The spectacular tasting room, inside the remodeled 1947 vintage farmhouse on the property, has a bird’s eye view of the hills on the backside of the Lexington Reservoir. Tasting here is casual, inside and out: lean at the bar, settle into couches and chairs in the parlor, where the walls are filled with old photos of the former rail station and resort.
You can also relax on the expansive, fully enclosed front porch, while kids of all ages play bocce or games on the lawn, or amuse themselves with games from the extensive cabinet, geared to kids under 12. Dan and his wife, Molly, have three youngsters.
Enjoy a sip of 2010 Estate Chardonnay No. 9 ($25), a metaphor for a loose train, which delivers aromas of lemon curd, pear and apple, along with pure Burgundian freshness of quintessential quince. The 2010 Estate “Far Away Block” Pinot ($39), is packed with flavors of ripe strawberry-rhubarb pie with a cinnamon-laced brown sugar graham crust.
24250 Loma Prieta Way, Los Gatos, 95033.
Friday thru Sunday, 11 to 5p.m., and by appointment. Tasting fee: $10
About the author
Laura Ness is a longtime wine journalist, columnist and judge who contributes regularly to Edible Monterey Bay, Spirited, WineOh.Tv, Los Gatos Magazine and Wine Industry Network, and a variety of consumer publications. Her passion is telling stories about the intriguing characters who inhabit the fascinating world of wine and food.
