June 4, 2024 – From about 50 yards off, the brand new coffee shop at The Village Big Sur looks good, in more ways than one.
A tall wall of windows welcomes in abundant light. Paned glass doors feel simultaneously country and classy. An arching sycamore sets off the surrounding redwoods, all within earshot of the murmuring Big Sur River.
Closer up, the aesthetic appeal extends in other directions. Exposed beams look down on shiny espresso machinery and smart pastries. Rustic shelves host curated wines. An arty vase holds fresh flowers.
On top of that, two sources of light in the area’s hospitality laser show sit at the 20-foot, rough-hewn redwood table.
Katie Blandin and Aengus Wagner are also identifiable from a distance.
Their presence is not a surprise, because this Big Sur tapestry is tightly woven.
And it’s also on brand, as The Village seeks to be a go-to locals refuge as much as anything else.
Anticipation for The Village arrives amped up by the credentials of the protagonists involved, the extended wait-to-date, and the utility and versatility of what’s to come.
As project partner-sommelier-manager Matt Peterson says, “Big Sur can always use another bar or restaurant, but what the local community can really use is our type of market with fresh produce and crunchy salads. I think it’s a great addition.”
The forthcoming Bodega at The Village will check those boxes and more—providing fresh eggs and other grocery items, picnic sundries, Peterson-picked wines and even a lounge—and comes online once refrigeration and inventory lands by the end of the month, fingers crossed.
Also very welcome, as Big Sur Bakery deals with the aftermath of a disastrous fire: The contemporary coffee bar, which debuted to buzzy response over Memorial Day weekend.
In addition to a worthy lineup of drip coffee, espresso and cappuccino (starting at $5) there are items like flat whites, iced chai lattes and golden lattes with turmeric, brown sugar, cinnamon and black pepper ($8-$9).
Chef-partner Tim Eelman oversees the fresh baked goods gallery, rolling out treats including candy cap mushroom coffee cake, seasonal scones like this week’s strawberry-fennel pollen, and sturdy loaves of pain au levain sourdough.
The cafe also offers Bodega-branded house granola and wines by the glass, mimosas, fresh-pressed juice from Happy Girl Kitchen, and cocktails like the “Canyon Carajillo,” a Mexican-style espresso martini.
The restaurant part of the project isn’t too far off either, aiming for a summer solstice preview to help honor the name and intended energy, which Edible explored with a report on The Village Big Sur’s rebirth last May.
A tour of the Solstice restaurant kitchen involves two big reveals: 1) a wide hearth for live-fire-friendly chef Eelman to char, sear, barbecue, roast, toast, grill, hot smoke, cold smoke and slow smoke proteins; and 2) a walk-in that looks like it should come with a heavenly chorus of angels when the door swings wide.
When asked if he ever stops by simply to gaze upon it, Eelman’s reply sounds involuntary.
“All the time,” he says, pointing to shelves encircling an annex above one of the walk-in’s main rooms. “When we really get going, you’ll find me on Willy Wonka ladders checking on our ferments.”
The hope is Solstice will debut on or around solstice (June 20), though full-on opening will likely not ensue till July.
This time last year, Solstice hosted a pop-up in Santa Cruz at the former Soif (now Hook & Line) that served as a tantalizing preview.
Eelman channeled seasonality and sourcing through savory gougères, smoked roe-smoked redwood furikake deviled eggs, rustic salads with foraged herbs and roasted seeds, duck and cherry ensembles, and jasmine granita-crowned homemade froyo.
That all played heartily with Soif’s wine choices and, yes, a room loaded with South Coasters willing to make the substantial drive north out of hunger, thirst, loyalty and enthusiasm.
Owner-partner Patrick Orosco, whose wife and resident yogini Mandy authors the coffee shop’s upbeat playlist, testifies that “finally transitioning from the theoretical to the practical” makes for an exhilarating time in the heart of Big Sur, but the whole resonance-with-the-residents thing stands out.
“The most rewarding aspect has been the response from locals, who have been showing up consistently,” he says. “I’m happy to see a lot of familiar faces.”
In other words, that was something they envisioned from a distance, but is all the more meaningful when it happens.
The Village is open 8am-3pm daily next to Big Sur River Inn at 46840 Highway 1. More at thevillagebigsur.com.
About the author
Mark C. Anderson, Edible Monterey Bay's managing editor, appears on "Friday Found Treasures" via KRML 94.7 every week, a little after 12pm noon. Reach him via mark@ediblemontereybay.com.
