September 22, 2015—The Tassjara blaze, as of this posting 60% contained, burned nearly 1100 acres and destroyed 11 homes and 7 outbuildings along this steep canyon-carved landscape. An intense, devastating firestorm incinerated leaves without leaving a mark on tree trunks as it raced hungrily across the drought-ravaged, remote area home to several prominent vineyards.
Fortunately, none of them, including Bernardus, Boekenoogen, Chesebro, Galante, Georis, Heller, Joullian, Rombi and Silvestri, reported damage or impact from the flames or smoke, although a few grapes are still left hanging and could certainly face the prospect of smoke taint. But fortuitously, most vineyards in the region have already been harvested.
The blaze showcased the cooperative nature of the region’s wineries, as Bernardus became a hub for Cal Fire operations, providing water from the winery’s 100k gallon holding tank to fill the water tenders.
Matt Shea, Vineyard Manager for Bernardus, said the fire was more of a threat to the winery than to the vineyards, which won’t be picked for another month. “The first responders were the Cachagua Fire volunteers. Credit goes to them for keeping the fire from spreading.”
Asked if smoke taint is a concern, he noted that unlike the fire of 2008, which burned for weeks, this fire was quickly contained and the easterly breeze blew smoke away from the vines.
Fortunately for Mark Chesebro, the fire was contained at the edge of his property, sparing his home and vineyard; what’s more, only a few of his grapes remain unpicked.
Dawn and Jack Galante, who travel a great deal, happened to be in the area, and were just wrapping up a Veteran’s benefit at their 700-acre Carmel Valley Ranch on Cachagua Road when one of their ranch workers noticed a plume of smoke nearby.
Luckily, a Cal Fire employee was in attendance and reported it. He texted Jack shortly afterwards that the fire was out of control. Dawn left, while Jack and their son stayed behind.
“I got to the gate, and the smoke was really thick. The cell phone tower went down, so we had no communications. I got home (Jack and Dawn have a home in Carmel Valley not far from Bernardus Lodge) and immediately called 911. I tried to figure out who to call and what to do.”
Literally, the situation was chaos. There was no pre-conceived evacuation plan in place, and no central number to call. Says Dawn, “Cachagua is a horseshoe – if you don’t know which way you’re going, you can get into trouble.”
Fortunately, the Cal Fire response was swift, and the wind shifted direction, sparing the Galante ranch. She and Jack are extremely grateful to all the firefighters and emergency responders. “All the Cachagua volunteers are so amazing. They are always the first to show up.”
Their ranch spared, the Galante’s offered it as a shelter for folks with large animals, along with food and water: goats and donkeys were wandering about.
Meanwhile, Jack had acquired a fire radio, from which they learned that the command center lacked potable water, rendering the portable kitchen unable to prepare meals for the weary firefighters, many of whom were inmates.
She and Jack jumped into action, delivering pizzas to the firefighters. The owner of the Running Iron in Carmel Valley gave her a discount and hurriedly made as many pizzas as he could put together. “He also threw in chicken wings and fresh vegetables,” says Dawn. “It was so generous.” She bought $250 worth of groceries at the local Safeway, delivering them to exhausted men on the lines.
Said Dawn, “It was eerie driving through the burn zone. The Command Center itself was surreal. The blackened earth looked like it was covered with snow, but it was ash.”
If there’s anything positive that comes out of this, says Galante, it’s that people in rural areas will hopefully become more informed about what their options are in the event of an emergency or natural disaster.
More than anything, though, she worries about what will happen to the burned out hillsides that are already crumbling into the roadways when the forecast rains arrive. On their ranch, many oaks and eucalyptus have already been lost to the drought. Much erosion control work needs to be done throughout the region: this fire only underscores its criticality.
Said Rich Tanguay of Heller Estate, “We at Heller are all safe and well except for the terrible season of grape growing! We are down severely on account of the drought. The fire moved east away from the winery and we were spared. I wish others hadn’t been subjected to its wrath.” All the Heller fruit should be picked by October 1, many clusters sucked dry by the invasive plague of thirsty yellow jackets. “I’m ready for rain! Bring it on!” said Tanguay.
John Boekenoogen’s Bell Ranch on Carmel Valley Road is only 1.5 miles from the fire. Fortunately, the wind shifted, blowing smoke away from the vines, which have yet to be picked.
The already-harvested Boekenoogen Pinot and Chardonnay crops in the SLH were down by 60% from 2014. “We usually alternate between big years and smaller years, but we did have two big years in a row.” He was still able to sell fruit to winery customers, including La Rochelle, Wrath, Loring, Mooney and Morgan.
“We’re going to be down 20–25% on the Viognier and the Zin, for sure,” says Boekenoogen. He hoped to pick beginning Wednesday.
So, too, the Galante’s hoped to find a crew to pick their estate Petite Sirah on Tuesday, having been unable to do so on Sunday, when they had originally planned to wrap up their 2015 harvest.
In related fire news, John Benedetti of Sante Arcangeli winery in Santa Cruz county, had to flee his home in Corralitos early Monday morning, when a fire erupted on Merc Road nearby. Despite suffering from pneumonia, he threw valuables into his truck and raced over to pick up his young son, Lucca, from daycare, where the flames were clearly visible. Fortunately, they got the fire out quickly. Benedetti, who had already completed his extremely meager harvest for the season, notes that they were picking apples in the area on Monday, so hopefully, that crop wasn’t unduly affected.
It’s been that kind of year. Gratitude is in order for all the bounty that has been granted us: it could have been much worse.
About the author
Laura Ness is a longtime wine journalist, columnist and judge who contributes regularly to Edible Monterey Bay, Spirited, WineOh.Tv, Los Gatos Magazine and Wine Industry Network, and a variety of consumer publications. Her passion is telling stories about the intriguing characters who inhabit the fascinating world of wine and food.
