May 5, 2023 – When the weather turns sunny and mild, the iris flaunt their fabulous gowns and the rose bushes come on like a full-blown case of spring fever. It’s time to put away the oaky Chardonnay and break out wines as fresh and breezy as the season.
We’re looking at you rosé, and you Viognier! And is that you Riesling?
Here are ten beauties that recently crossed our lips and are perfect for Mother’s Day brunches, weddings, bridal showers and just enjoying the outdoor life.
2022 Alma de Cattleya Rosé of Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, 12.24% – Made by the lovely and talented Columbian-born winemaker Bibiana González Rave, who happens to be married to Jeff Pisoni, this is pure coastal juice, redolent of fresh cut rhubarb, peonies and freesia. Dancing with acid, this is zippy with cranberry, rhubarb and light raspberry. As fresh as a westerly off the chilly Pacific, this is an awesome bottle of wine, with a label as pretty and classic as they come.
2021 Caraccioli Viognier Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, 14% – Somewhat shy, at least initially, this pretty wine subtly draws you in with tuberose perfume, cardamom and white linen. Peach, lemon-lime and white pepper appear in a volley of persistent acid and clean flavors, making me suspect that the SLH might be just the perfect spot for keeping this grape’s innate exuberance in check, allowing its true inner beauty to shine, with a white-gloved wave and a curtsy.
Chalone 2021 Pinot Blanc Estate, 14,9% – For those who want to sink into the richness of a shantung silk pillow covered couch, this is your wine. Winemaker Greg Freeman delivers the perfect poached pear in Chantilly cream experience, with a touch of almond paste. It makes me think of the creamy underpinnings of crème brulée before you hit it with a torch and create that caramelized glaze of sugared glass.
2021 Cordant Rosé of Pinot Noir Escolle Vineyard, 12.8% – This exciting producer with a tasting room and winery in Paso Robles, makes a good habit out of sourcing great grapes from great vineyards, and Escolle is one of them. Picked for rosé and not saignéed, this was rested in neutral barrels to augment the mouthfeel, giving it great depth. Leaning towards rhubarb, strawberry, rosehips and white currant, the pink lemonade flavors are subtle and very reminiscent of the Provence style.
2022 CRŪ Viognier Rancho Arroyo Grande Vineyard, San Luis Obispo Coast, 13.9% – Beautifully floral, with gardenia, guava and heady jasmine, this is pure unoaked Viognier with no wood to weigh it down. It sails like a kite across the palate, delivering white peach and kiwi in a most delicately assertive manner. This is the first wine CRŪ has labeled with the new SLO Coast AVA. We hope it’s not the last. So different from anything you’ve had from Paso. To be released Mother’s Day weekend, so bring a picnic to CRU and enjoy the view.
2022 Dawn’s Dream Rosé of Pinot Noir, Escolle Vineyard, SLH, 13% – This pristinely pink rosé crafted by father-son winemaking team Greg and Chris Vita delivers another take on the splendid fruit from the Escolle Vineyard. Like the Caraccioli version, it is made of clone 236 Pinot Noir, exploding with watermelon, rhubarb and sweet tarts. The entire experience is like that first dip in the pool you’ve been craving as the weather finally warms up to a frenzy.
2022 DOON to Earth Picpoul, Central Coast 10.5% – With a French name that literally means “lip stinger” this is not for those who eschew acid. Winemaker Nicole Walsh crafted this zinger of a mouthwatering beverage from four different vineyards for vintage 2022: three are sources of Picpoul (40% Beeswax, Arroyo Seco; 33% Rava, Paso Robles; 15% Sweetwater, Monterey) and Creston Ridge in the El Pomar district of Paso, which is the source of the 12% Vermentino that was added to reign in the racy acid. She says, “We have been blending a small portion of Vermentino or sometimes Grenache Blanc with the Picpoul. A small percentage of the other varieties helps with mouthfeel and texture” Let your lips do the smack talking!
2021 Folktale Riesling, Santa Lucia Highlands, 13.8% – Along with Chenin Blanc, Riesling was once widely planted in California, until Chardonnay showed up and ruined the party. Take one whiff of the arresting aromas of narcissus, lilac, pine and petrol interwoven with apple cake and you wonder how such shortsighted vinocide could have been permitted. Flavors of tangerine, apple strudel, apricot bars and marzipan make this a lavish, almost extravagant wine, and yet it is centered by wonderful acidity leading to the perfect amount of perceived sweetness on the finish. Once again, winemaker David Baird shows he knows his way around a grape, even it it’s hard to find. These grapes came from Tondre Grapefields: bless Penny and Joe Alarid for their continued faith in this fantastic varietal.
2022 One Stone Rosé of Pinot Noir, Central Coast 13.5% – This gorgeous, clean and clear snapshot of watermelon, kiwi and strawberry is satisfying with its kiwi, white fig, peach and tangerine flavors, delivered on a platter of minerality. The best part is that a portion of sales from each bottle goes to Dream Big Darling, a nonprofit started by Amanda Wittstrom Higgins, formerly of Ancient Peaks in Paso Robles. One Stone is a line of wines from the Ancient Peaks family. Its mission is to provide educational and mentorship opportunities for the next generation of women in the wine and spirits industry. The name One Stone comes from the saying, “The woman who moves a mountain starts with a single stone.” The art on the label, by Audrey Jackson, is sweet and inspiring. It depicts a sombrero-capped senorita clad in a floral skirt surrounded by saguaro, contemplating the tall peaks in front of her. You know she’s sizing up the challenge. One more sip, and she’ll be on her way to the other side.
2022 ONX Tracing Paper Rosé of Tempranillo, Templeton District, Paso Robles, 14% – The stunning label has a feel of collage involving wallpaper, sketchpad, and botanical renderings. It’s befitting this equally gorgeous wine and sets a new standard for Tempranillo as a rosé, which is certainly not a common varietal in the pink drink category. The peach, orange blossom, honeysuckle and pineapple aromas set the table for a rich experience that delivers up lush lychee, dragon fruit, pineapple-guava and cara cara orange. It’s no lightweight, so make sure you are sitting down.
About the author
Laura Ness is a longtime wine journalist, columnist and judge who contributes regularly to Edible Monterey Bay, Spirited, WineOh.Tv, Los Gatos Magazine and Wine Industry Network, and a variety of consumer publications. Her passion is telling stories about the intriguing characters who inhabit the fascinating world of wine and food.
