Santa Cruz Wine Stroll Shows Resilience

May 20, 2025 – It was heartening to see the mostly very young crowd, including many UCSC students, enjoying Santa Cruz Mountains wines on a brilliant day in downtown Santa Cruz. With nearly 300 tickets sold, traffic was robust and kept my friend Katarina and me on our toes as we poured Kings Mountain Vineyards new 2024 Boathouse Rosé of Pinot Noir, made by winemaker Nathan Kandler of Thomas Fogarty Winery. As people streamed into Stripe the Store, admiring the eclectic merchandise that includes everything from cool martini glasses, world globes, fancy pillows and brass dachshunds meant for mantle decor, we were delighted by the youthful nature and open-mindedness of the tasters. 

Unlike older, more experienced wine sippers at events like this that come pre-loaded like debit cards with prejudices and foregone conclusions, these palates were tabla rasa, ready to be imprinted with their first tastes of wine. They were eager, inquisitive and excited and wanted to know everything they could about the wines, especially given the chance to try one of the only rosés being poured. Some learned about clones of Pinot Noir and realized there is a whole lot more to wine than they may ever have imagined. Sparking those young and impressionable imaginations and creating a desire to explore further, is what will save the wine industry from its current malaise of overproduction (too much egregiously overpriced crap) and keep it fresh and alive for yet another generation. We can only hope. 

In the past when pouring at wine events, people would ask for “your Chardonnay,” as if everyone had one, like oxygen in the air. That has now become “I’ll have your white,” showing a recognition of a world beyond Chardonnay, love her as we do. There were maybe two people who refused to try the rosé, wanting immediately to try the two Pinot Noirs we were pouring instead. Universally, all the young men hesitated not one microsecond, and in fact, were eager to drink rosé, especially when they saw the pale color. Making a good first impression is paramount at these events, and by all accounts, this wine stroll, with its mix of wineries and wines, in was a big hit. Tasters mentioned how much they enjoyed the Madson and Bottlejack wines, and that they were looking forward to taking advantage of the SCMWA Passport program, about which they had learned at the Wine Walk stop featuring Wines of the Santa Cruz Mountains. Among the other local wineries pouring were Bargetto, Big Basin Vineyards, Bottle Jack, David Bruce, Lago Lomita, Madson Wines and Roudon-Smith.  

Summer’s Hottest Drink

The latest TikTok trend is to drop frozen jalapeños into a glass of sauvignon blanc. Honest. But if you like the sensation of slightly pepper combined with bright citrus and tropical fruits, just get yourself a bottle of 2023 KORI Sauvignon Blanc from Griva Vineyard, which is right on that jalapeño edge, and then you don’t have green things floating in your wine glass. 

Tessier Wines: No Jalapenos Needed

We love the bold and fanciful wines from Kristie Tacey of Tessier Winery in Berkeley, not just because she’s wicked fun, especially for a biochemist, but also because she sources fruit from top notch vineyards, most of which happen to be in Monterey or Santa Cruz counties.

The skin contact 2024 Gewürztraminer from Ricks Vineyard in Monterey was picked at 21brix, then macerated for 14 days and aged in neutral French oak. It shows how a little skin tannin adds zest and depth to an already spicy number like GW, imparting aromas of fresh ginger and coriander, and a delightful squirt of tangerine and orange zest on the palate.

The 2024 Electric Ladyland blend of Albariño, Picpoul, Riesling, Gewürztraminer and rosé of Grenache and Gamay comes from organically farmed vineyards in Monterey, Arroyo Seco and Clements Hills. At 12.5%, it goes full Jimi Hendrix guitar solo with its rippingly fresh, relentlessly sassy flavors of starfruit, banana, apricot and pineapple, that spin melodically into a blend you would never think could work. But work it does. Seriously, this gal makes wines for summer sipping and daydreaming. Her tasting room is in Berkeley, but you can order online at tessierwinery.com

New Wines from Neely in Portola Valley

We welcome yet another awesome woman winemaker to the Santa Cruz Mountains fold. Sarah Green (previously at Donelan and FEL) became Neely’s winemaker in August of 2024, just in time to pick grapes for her first harvest at the Portola Valley winery. We were totally taken by three of her just released inaugural efforts. The 2024 Neely Grüner Veltliner, Block Verde, is racy and pure, with a perfect mix of green apple and stone fruit, finishing with tangerine.

The perfumey 2024 Neely Leona Chardonnay, Sausal Block, is from 6-year-old Wente clone vines, planted in the newest of the Neely vineyards, outside the tasting room.  Fermented in cool steel and aged for 5 months, it is surprisingly sophisticated on the palate, showing a sleek texture of slate with melon, quince and peach. I was absolutely thrilled by the 2024 Lucy’s Rosé of Pinot Noir, executed brilliantly in the Provence style, with minimal skin contact. Vivid strawberry and raspberry join rhubarb, guava and a squeeze of lime for a rosé you can drink all day, if you have the right job. 

It’s been a rewarding year so far for John Benedetti, who recently posted news of his 95 pt score for the 2023 Sante Arcangeli Integrato Pinot Noir from Matt Kettman of Wine Enthusiast. Half of the grapes in this bottling came from the meager harvest off Split Rail Vineyard that year, while the other half came from Saveria and Lester. 

UPCOMING EVENTS 

Terroir Dinner Series – June 14 at Beauregard Ranch

Beauregard Ranch in Bonny Doon hosts the next Terroir Series dinner on Saturday, June 14, with a 4-course winemaker dinner by Brad Briske of HOME Restaurant.  Enjoy wines from Beauregard Vineyards, Big Basin Vineyards, Madson Wines, Sante Arcangeli Family Wines and Thomas Fogarty Winery. $175pp ++ Event Address: 1661 Pine Flat Rd, Santa Cruz, CA 95060

Summer Passport Day – June 21

The next Passport Day is Saturday, June 21, beginning at noon at a variety of locations, all of which will be listed at Passport  and where Passports can be purchased for $90 each. Mobile Passports are available for purchase on the app ‘Wines of SCM’ 

Surf City Wine Walk – July 12, 1-4pm

Come explore the wineries on the westside of Santa Cruz, including Big Basin Vineyards, Bottle Jack Winery, David Bruce Winery, Equinox Wines, Madson Wines, Margins Wine, Integrity Wines, Rexford Winery, Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard, Ser Winery, Silver Mountain Vineyards, Sones Cellars, Stockwell Cellars, and Wrights Station Vineyard & Winery. This is a laid back super fun wine walk through wineries as well as local shops. The vibe fits the moniker. Tickets are $45. 

Taste of the Mountains – July 24 at The Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay, 5-8pm  

What could be more enchanting than an evening by the sea at Half Moon Bay’s most sought-after resort, tasting wines from a variety of producers in the Santa Cruz Mountains? You’ll enjoy examples from all areas of the AVA, including Alfaro Family Vineyards & Winery, Madson Wines, Mount Eden Vineyards, Ridge Vineyards, Sandar & Hem Wines, Sante Arcangeli Family Wines, Storrs Winery and Thomas Fogarty Winery, along with appetizers and an unmatched ambiance. Tickets are $95 and include food, wine and gratuities. You might want to book a room at the resort now. 

And don’t miss breakfast at Johnny’s on Main Street in downtown Half Moon Bay. Simply awesome food, including short rib Benny with cheddar biscuit, chilaquiles with crème fraiche and a French rolled omelette filled with Hollandaise and chives. Best breakfast potatoes ever!! The owners also run It’s Italia at the Half Moon Bay Inn.