Rosscienda to Debut in Aptos

September 20, 2024 – Not quite yet open to visitors, but very much in operation, Rosscienda Winery is an unexpected vineyard ranch surprisingly close to Highway 1, but refreshingly far away.  

Just off the Freedom Boulevard exit, Rosscienda is the domain of Doug and Jenny Ross—and a perfect example of what happens when two people find a lovely spot in the hills and decide to install vineyards because it seems like such nice landscaping. 

With its southeast exposure, 600-foot elevation and proximity to the ocean, Rosscienda is a good spot for Burgundian varietals. Finding it takes faith in your gut and not necessarily your GPS. Winemaker David Moore, who is currently preparing for harvest 2024, describes the location as “stealthy.” 

Here, you will find two acres of Pinot Noir, planted with great care and advice from local viticulture expert Prudy Foxx in 2015, along with a half acre of Chardonnay planted in 2018. 

There are five clones of Pinot Noir, including Mt. Eden, Swan, 115, 667 and 943.  The vineyard is cared for by local vineyardist Nick Pisano. The latter clone of Pinot Noir was new to Moore, who went to UC Davis, and apprenticed at Mt. Eden Vineyards, Zaca Mesa and Kent Rasmussen before returning to the Santa Cruz Mountains in 1998 to work at Bonny Doon Vineyards. He also spent time at Savannah-Chanelle and Byington, before working in the agriculture supply industry, and teaching in the Agroecology department at Cabrillo college. 

Doug and Jenny Ross are avid dog lovers and antique collectors, and their authentic hacienda style home, constructed of Douglas fir harvested before the Civil War, is filled with fascinating treasures from Mexico, India, Africa and the Far East. 

“The entire house is constructed from salvaged timber,” says Doug. “The beams were originally part of a trestle bridge in Sonoma County that was later used in constructing the Esprit headquarters in San Francisco.” Ross, who is in construction, says that when that building was later torn down for condos, he saved the lumber for years hoping he could put it to good use. 

The soaring ceilings with small upper windows are reminiscent of California’s missions and the wrought iron furnishings, including magnificent sconces by a Santa Barbara artist, add to the historic feeling of the home. The living room, which looks out onto a sprawling deck that takes in the sweeping westward views, has a charming Juliet balcony over the massive fireplace, by which the Ross’s two elderly dogs rested as we talked. 

Cobblestone pavers that form the driveway outside the garage are made of old stones removed from a south San Francisco city street during another construction project. Everywhere are reminders of the artistry of human hands around the globe. The similarity of patterns on the Mexican and Middle Eastern tiles shows that common thread of being inspired by nature, no matter where in the world you happen to be.  

The soon-to-open tasting room, which has a poured concrete floor with granite countertops, is in the final stages of construction. It will offer seating inside and out, with a trellis-covered porch offering a view of the vineyard and hills to the ocean. The target date for completion is early October. Ross intends to participate in the Santa Cruz Mountains Passport on October 19. 

Inside the winery, which was constructed in time for harvest last year, are barrels from the 2023 vintage, which we sampled. The 2023 Mt. Eden clone Pinot Noir sample from a twice used barrel, showed gorgeous raspberry and pomegranate, infused with redwood duff and pine aromas, showing cherry and raspberry truffle on the palate, along with pleasing herbaceousness and a finish of dark chocolate. 

Moore reflected that his early influencers in winemaking, including Stephen Bedford, Leo McCloskey, Randall Grahm and Kent Rasmussen, all shied away from the use of too much new wood in their wines.

His style is a bit of a departure from winemakers who made the initial vintages of Rosscienda. You’ll be able to taste the past vintages, going back to 2018, and see the progression of the vineyard and the evolution of the winemaking approach.  

In addition to their estate fruit, they are sourcing from sites in Santa Clara County and the Santa Cruz Mountains.

We sampled the 2023 Syrah from Saveria Vineyard, redolent of pepper and salami, and showing ripping acid. This stuff is potent. Moore and Ross are considering adding some Grenache to round it out.

The 2023 Gilroy Cabernet Sauvignon was really exciting, a literal cherry bomb with notes of blueberry and chocolate. It already has a great mouthfeel and will be a crowd pleaser. Moore was tipped off to this vineyard by Tony Craig, the winemaker at Savannah-Chanelle, who appreciated the iron in the soil.  

The already bottled wines sport a distinctive canine theme, including the 2021 “Big Char” Chardonnay_—made with 50% new oak and filled with rich flavors of toasted brioche and preserved lemon bars—which bears the image of his son’s Bernese Mountain dog, Charles. Each of their dogs, past and present, appears on a label. 

Harvest will likely get underway in October, with the Pinot Noir clones 115 and 667 at the topmost part of the vineyard being picked first. Last in will be the fruit at the bottom of the vineyard, where the vines tend to get more water and less heat, allowing them to ripen the fruit longer. 

Rosscienda looks forward to your visit for Passport in October.