November 22, 2024 – Views of sunrise coming up over the slough flooded the windows with pink gold, lighting up the eastern side of the magnificent 2 Bed/2 Bath rental unit over the Haute Enchilada restaurant. To the west, nothing but serenity hung in the chill air of a near frosty morning, as the world of Moss Landing shook itself awake.
From our snug beds, we could hear the steady thrum of the highway fade in the post-midnight hours, then increase as the dawn approached. The heater clicked on, and the sun spread itself like butter along the walls, illuminating the vibrant artwork and collectibles, made more dramatic by the high ceilings. An enormous dining table with chairs enough for a serious gathering, sat in need of a party. But it was just the two of us, my friend Angela and me.
The night before, the sunset colors on the slough reflected on the towers of the old PG&E plant, turning them a ruddy pink. The entire sky seemed frozen to the ocean: both shades of pale, cold blue. Sea lions barked relentlessly until the last light faded, and then fell still. A stiff breeze whipped branches and foliage, grabbing hold of everything untethered, as owner Kim Solano showed us her various rental units, including a very sweet 1Bed/1Bath unit with a cute galley kitchen, bright red refrigerator, happy walls and a sweet living room with two couches, plus dining table. Nearby, a cozy one bed unit with stall shower, small fridge and coffeemaker felt like the perfect cozy overnight setting.
Solano also has an airstream trailer available with two sleeping areas and little kitchen. You could have yourself a serious get away party with friends or family, and take over the whole shebang. And don’t forget the Social Club, set up like a roadhouse with a bar, huge banquet space and room for dancing, perfect for weddings, company parties (maybe skip the dancing) and other celebrations. The feeling inside is so festive, just like the restaurant, with its jaunty, colorful, eclectic décor, all reflective of the indomitable spirit and energy of the owner. Her warmth and positivity are the very foundation of hospitality.
We had come for lunch with a large group, taking over the surfboard table out front, next to the railcar. The table managed to fit 18 ladies who don’t mind sharing space, and what the heck, sharing food, too, including the signature Chile Relleno Trotsky, stuffed with squashes and plantain, and the seasonal holiday chile relleno, stuffed with beef and pork, and smothered in creamy walnut sauce, topped with pomegranate seeds. Absolutely beautiful presentation! Solano told me later that they were “way too much frigging work!” But, heck, if they were good enough for Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s wedding, they were worth making for one month out of the year.
Highly popular with the ladies were the crab enchiladas with lobster sauce, a favorite of patrons of the now closed Whole Enchilada. Kim’s husband lobbied to add them to her menu after he closed his restaurant.
Shots of potato leek soup were subtly spicy with celery seed and white pepper, the calamari steak-like and delicious, the sandabs delectable and the fish tacos, seriously well-constructed. Honestly, I have no idea what the gals at the other end of the table had, as it was a few yards away. At my end of the table, we shared desserts as well, including Solano’s phenomenal flan, her signature ginger sticky pudding with sugared pecans and over the top caramel sauce, plus the spicy mermaid bread pudding with its veins of dark chocolate topped with slightly spicy ganache a very hearty take on the versatile dessert. All in all, splendid.
So how do you top that? You go wine tasting at Roar, in Castroville, about a 7-minute ride away. Here at the winemaking facility that debuted in 2018, we were treated to a full flight of both Roar and Flywheel wines, led by host Nick Franscioni and winemaker Scott Shapley, who has been making the Roar wines for 11 vintages now. Flywheel is his personal brand, made exclusively from vineyards in the Chalone AVA, providing a wonderful counterpoint to the Roar wines, which are all sourced from the Santa Lucia Highlands.
Roar makes 5 to 6,000 cases from their vineyards, producing seven Pinot Noirs, four Chardonnays, a Grenache, two Syrahs and a Viognier. Flywheel is about 600 cases total, focusing on Rhones, plus a Brosseau Vineyard Chardonnay. Every single wine was excellent, and the Wine Women enjoyed the accompanying commentary from Scott and Nick. We learned that the name Roar was chosen because it was easier to spell than Franscioni, and it evoked the sound of the wind off the ocean, as well as power and energy, like the roar of the crowd when Buster Posey hit a homer.
2020 Roar Rosella’s Vineyard Chardonnay, SLH: One of the few wines made from the Franscioni’s estate vineyards during the Fire Year of 2020. All their SLH reds were lost. Less fruity than a typical Rosella, it leads with white rose, lemongrass and melon, with a slightly chalky texture.
2021 Flywheel Brosseau Chardonnay, Chalone: Lovely and rich, with good depth, plush texture and flavors of carrot cake with pineapple, this is a superb Chardonnay from a distinctive region.
2023 Roar SLH Pinot Noir: This sensational newbie contains fruit from the new Windrock Vineyard, a 16-acre plot next to Garys’ Vineyard, planted to Pommard and Calera clones. Gorgeous raspberry, chocolate and candied cherry cascade across the palate, propelled by superb acid, texture and depth. A young wine has no business tasting this good, but just wait until the finish, when the ginger sticky pudding kicks in.
2021 Roar Sierra Mar Vineyard Pinot Noir: This spectacular vineyard is the highest elevation of all the Franscioni properties, topping at 1,200 feet. It’s south of Rosella’s and is planted to a dizzying mix of clones, including the famed Pisoni suitcase clone, Swan, Pommard, 667, 777 and 943. The nose reflects the utter complexity of the mix, ranging from floral, cedar and raspberry, to medicinal, weedy and meaty. With flavors of black tea, sassafras, dried cherry, rosemary, tarragon and cinnamon stick, this is powerful mountain fruit.
2023 Roar Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir: Hold on a sec, because if you thought the Sierra Mar was a big boy, this one is Paul Bunyan. It’s like a dark and stormy night in your glass, and Nick, or was it Scott, said it reminded him of an old leather-filled library. In one sip, you feel like you are drinking an entire set of leatherbound Encyclopedia Brittanica from the turn of the 20th century. The dark, leathery fruit is intense, and the chocolate streak adds profound richness. Garys’ is mostly Pisoni clone on different rootstocks, planted on a sloping plain, south of Rosella’s, where there is more heat for ripening.
2022 Flywheel Grenache, Boer Vineyard, Chalone: A complete contrast to the almost pugilistic Garys’ Pinot Noir, this is airy and feminine, with pretty notes of wild strawberry and endless floods of spice, like an aerobatic plane doing a series of barrel rolls. A hint of spearmint makes this totally fly. Everyone swooned. Scott told us the vineyard had been VSP trained, but to help prevent sunburn, it had been converted–reverted?—to California sprawl. Sometimes what’s old is new again.
2018 Flywheel Mourvèdre, Boer Vineyard, Chalone: It’s almost unfair to taste anything but Mourvèdre in a single sitting. This is a wine that absolutely demands to be the center of attention, like the world’s most adorable Jack Russell terrier. I’ve been told by many winemakers that any attempt to keep it from overtaking a blend is about as futile as trying to keep a cat off the lap of the one person in the room who is allergic to them. Everything about this wine grabs your tastebuds, from its fierce ferality to its earthy warmth, oozing with baked fig bars, dark licorice, molasses and baking spice. Deeply satisfying, it would be best friends with a lamb shank or lasagna, but would also be delightful with mushroom brie, or roasted mushroom polenta.
2017 Flywheel Syrah, Brosseau Vineyard, Chalone: This Syrah does a pretty good job of following on the heels of the Mourvèdre, actually. Filled with earthy, leathery aromas, along with chapparal, and desert scrub, this wine at 7 years on, is quite the beast, with firm tannins, along with powdered ginger cookies, blue fruit and dusty cocoa.
2018 Roar Syrah, Rosella’s Vineyard, SLH: Raising its peppery fist, this Syrah is superbly spicy. Black salty licorice and cracked pepper are forces to be reckoned with here, and the wine has an unrelenting heart of obsidian-like darkness, yet elegance lurks within.
2018 Roar Syrah, Sierra Mar Vineyard, SLH: Not to be outdone, this is a mighty mountain of a Syrah, from a mountainous vineyard. Showing big dark fruit, with a streak of red plum, this is a feisty character that portends a great companion to slow braised short ribs or spicy Szechuan beef.
A visit down this way is always an adventure. If you haven’t been to The Haute Enchilada in awhile, it might be time to return to Kim Solano’s bastion of culinary excellence, surrounded by her unmatched trove of treasures, including Pegleg Pete the Pirate, who keeps a weather eye out on the porch of The Social Club. And maybe spend the night, do some owl-watching and drink in the magnificent sunsets in the cutest tiny town on the whole Central Coast, perhaps accompanied by a righteous Syrah.
About the author
Laura Ness is a longtime wine journalist, columnist and judge who contributes regularly to Edible Monterey Bay, Spirited, WineOh.Tv, Los Gatos Magazine and Wine Industry Network, and a variety of consumer publications. Her passion is telling stories about the intriguing characters who inhabit the fascinating world of wine and food.
