July 11, 2023 – A text alert wakeup isn’t always the best way to start the day.
In this case, Klaus Georis will take it.
The message glowing on his screen told him his restaurant Maligne in Seaside was knighted with a Bib Gourmand by the Michelin Guide.
That’s the distinction Michelin bestows on restaurants, to use its official parlance, that provide “good quality, good value cooking.”
“It’s a fun category because it’s affordable,” Georis says.
In a short lifespan (that was a long time coming), Maligne has proven nothing if not provocative.
First food enthusiasts like me wondered if Seaside was ready for a finer dining destination heavy on premium product and time-consuming technique.
Response in opening months, meanwhile, flagged and flowed.
Then Georis shut things down to execute an adjustment that ultimately reigned in ambition and price points.
“I think businesses have to adapt, and we had to adapt to community we’re in,” Georis says.
He adds that the changes definitely weren’t made with any external recognition in mind, and that his only hint Maligne might be featured was a request for photos several weeks back.
“At the end of the day, it is nice to have that validation,” he says.
Sixteen area restaurants are included in the California edition of the Michelin Guide, including new additions Chez Noir and Lucia Restaurant & Bar. One local spot has earned a star (Aubergine) and two others (Yafa and Mentone) a Bib Gourmand.
Maligne was one of 10 new Bib Gourmands recognized across California.
“The name means ‘clever’ or ‘cunning,’ but you don’t have to be a particularly sharp tool to appreciate the ample charms of this hip, easygoing Seaside gem,” the Michelin inspector notes read. “The menu draws on Italian-American and French classics (think chicken parm and asparagus with hollandaise), but the feel is thoroughly Californian, with a light, contemporary touch and spectacular local ingredients that make even all-too familiar dishes like Caesar salad memorable—a testament to chef Klaus Georis’s extensive experience in fine dining.”
Michelin is promising more statewide announcements at next week’s awards reveal in Oakland, which I’ll attend and report from on behalf of Edible.
Georis is eager to welcome anyone drawn by Michelin shine, but sounds wary of losing his way.
“It’s a double-edged sword,” he says. “We’re going to keep doing what we’re doing and not switch things up, and once you get nod from the guide, it puts you in the arena of thinking, ‘We got a bib, now let’s get a star.’ It’s a lot more important for us to maintain an affordable, neighborhood, accessible place.”
Emily Evans, public relations manager for Monterey County Convention & Visitors Bureau, has faith Georis and company will navigate the notoriety just fine, and the area will continue to benefit from heightened Michelin visibility.
Which is why she was eager to text him this morning.
“Klaus definitely has a strong vision and I’m not worried about him losing his focus or voice,” Evans says. “The Michelin organization is so well respected and has been for so many years, so we’re so happy to see it bring esteem to our thriving dining industry.”
Maligne • 600 Broadway, Seaside • restaurantmaligne.com.
About the author
Mark C. Anderson, Edible Monterey Bay's managing editor, appears on "Friday Found Treasures" via KRML 94.7 every week, a little after 12pm noon. Reach him via mark@ediblemontereybay.com.
