May 24, 2024 – Could Pinot Noir, that ever-alluring object of desire and confoundment, ever be truly mastered by anyone? And yet, there are a few absolute geniuses when it comes to turning out multiple versions each vintage, from a wide range of vineyards. They are relatively view, to be honest, and few are more talented than winemaker Sabrine Rodems of Wrath and Scratch, and let’s not forget she also makes wine for Kori.
When my indefatigable friend and wine tasting companion, Ann Hougham, joined me for what turned into a wine tasting marathon with Rodems in April, we had little idea what was in store. Hours—and I mean hours—later, I had a freaking stack of wine tasting sheets, along with a feeble attempt at notes as I tried to grok the breadth of the landscape she covers on her winemaking journey. Both Ann and I also came away with a far deeper appreciation for what it takes to expertly craft the fruit of the many different vineyards from which she sources.
I know very few winemakers with such a broad portfolio of Pinot Noir. Bill Brosseau of Testarossa might win the sheer number of vineyards (17) in different AVAs contest, while Chad Richard and Bob Zeches of Furthermore would take the win for sheer geographic breadth, getting fruit from as far north as Starbridge in Occidental to La Encantada in the Sta. Rita Hills. Adrian Manspeaker of Joseph Jewell Wines in Forestville might win the trophy for vineyard trekking, as he hikes up into Humboldt County for several of his vineyard designates, which are utterly amazing.
But back to Rodems, and her treasure chest of local vineyards, beginning with the one she’s been working with for 20 years, San Saba. It’s been managed by sustainable farming expert, Steve McIntyre, for all that time.
On our tour of Pinotlandia, we began with the 2023 Saignée from San Saba Vineyard, a rather hefty rosé done exclusively from clone 828, the upright clone that has a robust flavor and is not at all shy. Floral notes, orange zest and rose petals make this delicate but persistent wine extremely attractive. It was done in neutral oak for three months, giving it just enough depth.
Then followed 11 different Pinot Noirs; including three clonal treatments and vineyard designates. The San Saba Vineyard is the estate vineyard for Wrath, and lies just below the elevation cutoff to be part of the Santa Lucia Highlands, hence it is Monterey appellated.
2021 EX Pinot Noir, San Saba Vineyard – Made from Clone 828 only, with only 20% new French, this is Sabrine’s way of showcasing the estate fruit with minimal oak. Description: Lovely and bright, with cherry and pomegranate, and a finish of mortadella.
2021 Wrath 115/667 Pinot Noir, San Saba Vineyard – Showcasing two of the Dijon clones, this wine is also done in just 20% new French oak, with 20% whole cluster. Description: Meaty and grippy, with nutmeg and coriander, Szechuan pepper.
2021 Wrath Swan/828 Pinot Noir, San Saba Vineyard – Swan is one of those “heritage” clones planted widely along with Pommard and Martini before the “French invasion” of the numbered clones came along. Like the previous, this wine is also done in just 20% new French oak, with 20% whole cluster. Description: Earthy, sweet black currant and tea, big and meaty, with tobacco and orange peel.
2021 Wrath Pommard 4/777 Pinot Noir, San Saba Vineyard – There is something earthy and quite deep about Pommard that makes it a standout, and combined with 777, this wine has some heft. Again, this wine saw 20% new French oak, with 20% whole cluster. Description: Wonderful texture and mouthfeel; cedar and incense, wonderfully earthy and spicy
2021 Wrath Pinot Noir, KW Ranch, Santa Lucia Highlands – KW Ranch is farmed by Kirk Williams, who also grows lemons and avocados in the Highlands. The vineyard is at the bottom of the road that leads to Boekenoogen Vineyard. This PN is Clone 667, 777 and Pommard, aged in 30% new French oak, with 20% whole cluster. Rodems says she did the fermentation for this one at high heat (95º) for 10 days. Description: Super gorgeous texture with serious tannin, interesting notes of chervil and tarragon.
2021 Wrath Pinot Noir, Lemoravo Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands – Lemoravo is one of the newer vineyards farmed by grower Kirk Williams, and it used to be a lemon grove. This PN is Clone 777 and Pommard 4, aged in 25% new French oak, with 20% whole cluster. Description: Smooth raspberry ganache, pretty orange peel and chestnut, plus lovely apricot and orange.
2021 Wrath Pommard Pinot Noir, San Saba Vineyard – Representing a broad chorus of the clonal material here at San Saba, this PN is comprised of Clone 828, Pommard 4, Swan and 115. Again, 25% new French oak, with 20% whole cluster. The consistency of methodology is important, as it helps illuminate the vital character of each vineyard. Description: A little bit of everything, so herbal and fun, pine, amaro, chestnut, lavender and thyme
2021 Wrath Pinot Noir, Boekenoogen Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands – This vineyard was first planted in 1997, at the beginning of the SLH conversion from row crops, orchards and cattle grazing. This PN is Clone 113 and 115, aged in 20 percent new French oak, with 20% whole cluster. Description: Primarily cherry and chocolate, smooth and mellow.
2021 Wrath Pinot Noir, McIntyre Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands – This vineyard was originally planted in 1973 and has some of the oldest Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the SLH. At 80 acres, it lies at the north end of the bench, very near Odonata, on the opposite side of River Road. It feels very wild here. Steve McIntyre, truly one of the experts in viticulture in the SLH and the rest of the Monterey AVA, farms 16,000 acres in Monterey County. The McIntyre Estate Vineyard was among the first properties in the Santa Lucia Highlands to be SIP (Sustainability In Practice) Certified. Sabrine made this wine from Clone 115, with 25 percent new French. Description: Sweet cherry, basil, chamomille, cracked pepper, coriander – lovely!!
2021 Wrath Pinot Noir, Tondre Grapefield, Santa Lucia Highlands -This stellar vineyard began with 6.5 acres of Pinot Noir grapes in 1997 to augment the vegetables and citrus they were already farming. Eventually, the vineyard became 100 acres of the finest quality Pinot, Chardonnay, Riesling and Syrah. The fact that Joe and Penny Alarid make fruit available to such a wide talent pool has increased its visibility and renown. I remember Tony Craig, formerly of David Bruce Winery, telling me what an amazing vineyard this was, way back when he first started making wine from it. And he still makes the wines for the Alarid’s to this day. But back to Sabrine’s show here. This example is made of Pommard 4, 115 and 943, and it sees 30% new French oak, because it’s got the stones to handle it. It’s the biggest of the lot for me. Personality: Super sweet, baking spice, clove, soft yet intoxicating bordering on whiskey.
2021 Wrath Pinot Noir, Cortada Alta Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands – This vineyard was planted by the late John Peterson of Mansfield-Dunne in 2013 and is the highest planting in the SLH. Stunning in its aspect (nosebleed steep) and its views of the bench to the south, this place makes you feel you are king or queen of the realm. There is nothing like the glorious top of the world feel of this place. I can’t tell you how honored I am to have visited this special place and toured the vineyard with John one glorious morning, when everything felt like possibility.
What Rodems has done with this wine—made of Mariafeld and Wadnenswill clones—is truly remarkable and of course, as it always works this way, it’s the one in the shortest supply at only 140 cases. Both Mariafeld and Wadenswill came from Switzerland to California in the 1950s. They fell out of favor years ago, but Mariafeld has amazing acidity and Wadenswill will ripen in cold climates.
Personality: A fantastic wine, redolent of pomegranate and chapparal, bay laurel, ginger and cinnamon biscotti, Almond Roca, cedar incense, nutmeg, anise and potpourri – a complete encapsulation of fall.
About the author
Laura Ness is a longtime wine journalist, columnist and judge who contributes regularly to Edible Monterey Bay, Spirited, WineOh.Tv, Los Gatos Magazine and Wine Industry Network, and a variety of consumer publications. Her passion is telling stories about the intriguing characters who inhabit the fascinating world of wine and food.
