October 6, 2015 – Up until fairly recently, the word “fermentation” would deliver blank stares and quizzical looks from the general public. But today, the term is all the rage. People have started to understand that pretty much everything delicious goes through some kind of fermentation process: cheese, alcohol, even bread. And one category on that list that is enjoying a renaissance is hard cider. The beverage has come a long way since its previous reputation alongside wine coolers. Historically, cider’s timeline is long and vast, with almost every single country in the world making a version. Cider was brought to the U.S. by colonists and was more popular than any other beverage…even whiskey. Apple orchards were planted solely for the purpose of fermenting the fruit, and it wasn’t until German immigrants started brewing beer on a commercial scale and then, of course, Prohibition, that cider drinking fell out of the norm.
But cider has officially returned, catching a ride alongside the craft beer movement and building its own genre at a rapid pace. In Santa Cruz County alone, several cider labels launched in the last year or two. Santa Cruz Cider Co., Santa Cruz Scrumpy, Everett Family Farm’s Estate Soquel Cider, Tanuki Cider and Bonny Doon Vineyard’s Querry brand have all gained fandom. Which makes sense, since our region—specifically Watsonville and Corralitos—have a long history of apple growing. All of this is why Founder and CEO (Chief Event Organizer), Albert Martinez, is making Santa Cruz the first stop on his Hard Core Cider Tour on Saturday, October 10th from noon to 4pm at San Lorenzo Park.
Albert recognizes that Santa Cruz “is sure to become a ‘cider country’ destination in due time.” After a career in the beverage industry, and organizing the popular Santa Barbara Tequila Harvest Festival for the last six years, he knows when the time is right to launch a good idea. “Cider is trending and seeing a massive revival. If you were to rate cider as a beer style, it would be second only to IPA in popularity. The Cider Industry in California is relatively young but makes for an exciting time to be involved, with each new cidery crafting their own unique take on cider,” he says.
Many of our local cider makers will be present for the event and demonstrate how varied the genre can be. Bonny Doon’s Querry is a delicately sweet and floral blend of apple, pear and quince while Robby Honda’s Tanuki “California dry farmhouse style cider” is a “very small batch, handmade cider that is strong and dry.” His cider is bottle conditioned (just like Champagne) and made in a traditional way, referring to the English term “farmhouse” that indicates no pasteurization, no sulfites, no water…very hands off. Robby says that the Hard Core Cider Tour is “the first event of this kind in town, so I’m really exciting and really looking forward to meeting these other cider-makers in person. Hopefully we’ll be able to chat and share ideas.”
Santa Cruz Scrumpy was the very first cider produced in Santa Cruz, starting in 2009, and was also the first certified organic cider produced in all of California. Owner John Schumacher—winemaker at Hallcrest Vineyard in Felton—says that “people who are getting tired of the sweeter ciders are really liking ours.” They use many different apple varieties in their blends, some of which contain cherries or pomegranates, and he says that “we tried doing single varietal apple cider but it made it so monotone. We find that blending the apples make the ciders much more complex, and give it more breadth.” They hope to unveil a special seasonal cider at the event, aged in “virgin” toasted French oak, the same barrels that premium chardonnay producers use.
Currently at the height of harvest, it is a very busy time for these cider folks right now. Natalie Beatie with Santa Cruz Cider Company says, “We’ve been harvesting and pressing apples all weekend, so tis the season!” The family business is well versed in the ways of brewing, all members being expats of Santa Cruz Mountain Brewing, and source hyper local fruit for their crisp offerings.
If you just can’t wait until the weekend for all this cider fun, go get a headstart on Wednesday at the very last Santa Cruz Community Farmers’ Market free DIY class series with Mountain Feed & Farm Supply. The “Homemade Hard Apple Cider” class starts at 3pm, followed by music, apple pressing and tastings. Robby will be at the Fogline Farm booth pouring his current release of Tanuki, made from last year’s harvest. “What makes it unique is that all the fruit in the bottle right now came from the dry farmed standard rootstock organic trees at Fogline,” he says. Last year’s drought conditions meant much less, but much sweeter fruit, resulting in a “considerably different, full bodied, really dry” cider compared to years past.
The win-win for the Hard Core Cider Tour is that a portion of the admission price goes to an excellent cause. Albert says, “We realize the importance of reinvesting in the local community where we host our Cider Tours. We make it our mission to partner up with local nonprofits that impact, improve, and inspire the local community they serve.” The education nonprofit, Life Lab, is the chosen beneficiary, and will receive $5 of each ticket price sold through the general Cider Tour website, and $10 from tickets purchased through this link, or if you buy a ticket at the door and mention Life Lab. These proceeds will go towards garden education programs that reach over 4,000 local preschool and elementary students in Santa Cruz County and more than 3,000 educators annually, impacting the lives of more than 200,000 students across the U.S. every year.
Aside from the good cause, a ticket to the event will get you a keepsake tasting glass and an event badge, or “PassPours”, where each cider vendor (there are almost 20!) will punch your badge after you visit their table. Along with cider tasting, there is a lot on tap for the day. Giant lawn games, live music from The 36 North Band, food from Castroville’s The Choke Coach and our favorite popsicles from Inzane Pops, as well as a few other surprise guests. Buy tickets here!
About the author
Amber Turpin is a freelance food and travel writer based in the Santa Cruz Mountains.
