Grape Escapes: Roberts Ranch Road in Ben Lomond

October 21, 2022 – Some wineries are easy to get to. Others require a bit more effort and fortitude. They’re usually the ones that yield the biggest rewards. Roberts Ranch is one of those. 

As I turned up Love Creek Road from Ben Lomond, the redwoods took over and the road quickly climbed, narrowing as they always do once civilization is left hastily behind like a bulky overcoat. Heavily forested, the temperature dropped a good ten degrees as I made my way to Roberts Road, where I crossed a narrow wooden bridge. From here, it requires paying attention, as the road has the habit of continually forking. You basically stay to the left as you climb, passing lovely little clearings, some with charming houses, and the occasional orchard. When I finally reached the bottom of driveway, after driving past it the first time, I could see vines teetering on the steep hill and blue skies above. The redwoods briefly gave way to some scrubby pines and a colony of enormous oaks, each holding court around the winery and tasting area.

Cresting the final hill to the knoll that overlooks the San Lorenzo watershed in every direction, massive Doug firs and madrones stand like sentinels on the ramparts of a castle. A beautiful grove of redwoods flanks the property’s northwestern side, and off in the distance is the ridge on which David Bruce and Byington Wineries are situated. To the south and west, a giant wall of fog kept us from glimpsing the Monterey Bay, but it was definitely out there somewhere.

Joshua and Sarah Stewman and Josh’s brother Tom, greeted me as I stood admiring the enormity and longevity of the largest Doug Fir, in all its massive glory. We figured it must be 300 to 400 years old. Just think of what that tree has witnessed. It escaped the intense logging of the 1850s through the 1900s, weathered the huge rains of January 1982 that caused the deadly Love Creek mudslide, felt the shake of the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake, stood fast during big windstorms, including the hurricane force winds of February 2017 and survived countless lightning strikes. It’s scarred, but completely alive. 

All around this property, trees are the dominant force, acting as giant hedges that guard the clearings where vines are planted. This 21-acre parcel is right next door to where Joshua and Tom’s parent’s live, after moving here from Boulder Creek where their father was a contractor and their Mom did drafting. Joshua and Sarah purchased the poison oak covered land in the spring of 2011, and planted the first blocks in 2012. The older vineyard parcels are mostly Pinot Noir, consisting of clones 667, 777 and Wädenswil 2A, while the newer plantings include Calera, Dijon 828, Mount Eden and additional Wädenswil. There are four acres total, with room for more. 

Next to the winery is a giant California oak that basically clasps the building in its embrace. Outside the deck from the kitchen and living room where Joshua and Sara stay when they visit from their home in Spreckels, are four additional magnificent oaks, each a veritable ecosystem. The one closest to the pond bears a swing. 

The entire setting with many outdoor tables set near the pond with vineyard views, creates a sense of a world completely apart. There is no sound of civilization save that from the occasional aircraft overhead. The quiet is filled with sounds of birds, drawn to the pond. And the wind in the trees. 

It’s as serene and meditative place as you could imagine. The couple welcomed me into their white marble mecca of a kitchen, designed by Joshua, who is an architect with Homelife Design Studio—which explains the plentitude of wide flat spaces onto which blueprints can be spread. Tall windows, a deep farm kitchen sink, a massive gas cooktop, a center island perfect for wine tasting, and cabinets filled with white china and glassware, create the ideal country cottage getaway feel. In the living room, high ceilings are warmly paneled with redwood siding boards that Stewman rescued from the scrap heap during one of his many Pebble Beach client teardowns. It seems everyone wants stucco mega-mansions these days. Craftsman style bungalows are so yesteryear. Yet his place combines the best of modern style and classic comfort, complete with a woodstove. 

Beneath the glorified one-bedroom cabin is the winery, so tiny that it required Tom to remove the rollup door to get their new cylinder press inside. They had quickly tired of the very manual task of basket pressing, as romantic and gentle on the grapes as it is. As we entered the garage/winery, my eye caught the whiteboard with its prominent display of gopher kills. Tom explained that a local Physical Ed teacher enjoys the competitive sport of whack a ground squirrel, the chief threat to the vines here.

The vineyard is only Pinot Noir at the moment, but its complexity of clones, including Calera, Swan and Wädenswil 2A, really make the wine quite distinctive. We began with a 2021 Sauvignon Blanc (13.1%) and a rosé of Pinot Noir (12.3%), both sourced from Hawk’s Ridge in Carmel Valley—a 40-year-old vineyard planted by Merv Griffin, who is rumored to have been quite the SB fan. This wine was done in neutral barrels and stainless with native yeast, in what Stewman calls a red wine style. The rosé has good color and acid, a very French-style mouthfeel and finish, with nice flavors: definitely not a fruit forward wine. The 2021 Chardonnay from the Lieberman Vineyard in Los Altos (14%), opens with notes of oak, but is very lean and precise on the palate, having been barrel-fermented and then aged in steel for a bit. It tastes like the apple cake my grandmother made in a springform pan, with nothing but beaten eggs, flour, sugar and sliced apples: just pure essence of apple. 

The 2019 Estate Pinot Noir is just beautiful, with tantalizing fresh cedar and sandalwood on the nose, along with pure forest floor. Lively and lovely pomegranate, cedar and red currant dominate the palate, which is softly suede-like in texture. This wine was done in 40% new oak: Stewman uses François Frères, on recommendation of Jeff Brinkman of Rhys. A 2019 Reserve Pinot Noir will be released soon.

The 2021 Pinot Noir barrel sample proved youthful and assertive with crushed rock and pepper, bristling with red plum and raspberry. It’s just about to be bottled.

They also have 2020 Lester Pinot Noir available, and a Hawk Ridge Syrah awaits in barrel. 

Sarah offers beautifully prepared charcuterie trays for two people for $15 and for four people, $30, served on wood platters made from madrone trees felled on the property. 

Roberts Ranch is now open one day a month. You’re in luck, as it happens to be this Saturday, October 22.  Join them for a flight of 4 wines and complimentary charcuterie on Saturday, October 22, from 11am-5pm. Appointments available here or call 831-920-8814.

They are also having an open house for Club Members on November 5, so this might be a good time to join the Club. 

If you’re looking for a winery with good wines in bottle now and many more to come, which you can enjoy in a serene and rejuvenating atmosphere, come spend a few moments by the pond or under the oak trees, and you will truly appreciate the balm of the Santa Cruz Mountains. And that 280-degree view is worth drinking in, no matter the weather. 

Roberts Ranch winery is at 875 Roberts Road, Ben Lomond