Found Treasure: Reef Dog Deli

September 2, 2022 – There are certain signs you’re in for a good sandwich at Reef Dog Deli in Capitola.

One sits right there in front of the shop. “5 Reasons to Eat Here,” it reads, and proceeds to tick off “1. We are family friendly; 2. We are serious about food made from scratch; 3. Nationally acclaimed sandwiches; 4. House-smoked meats; 5. Bottom line: We’re kick ass!”

My favorite sign appears on a shelf in the window: “Do small things with great love.” 

That little bit of kitsch clicks with the all-around cute vibe of the place, which includes cheerful yellow accents, a big photo of the late, great namesake puppy behind the register and other homey slogans like the one on the overhead beam (“May all who enter as guests leave as friends”).

Other promising signs: the recommendation of Edible publisher Deborah Luhrman; the happy swath of people munching away in the adjacent parklet; and the robust daily special listed on chalkboards in and out, namely The BLT with summer heirloom tomatoes, pork belly bacon, garden basil, cucumber, creamy lemon greens and pesto mayo on toasted sourdough. (Note to self: A great sandwich deserves toasted bread.)

The BLT hints at the attention to detail that shines with each sandwich on the docket here. 

The Foxy Loxy, for instance, ain’t your grandpappy’s turkey hoagie. Turkey smoked in house goes on toasted ciabatta with melted pepper jack, cranberry-barbecue compote and a pickled-root slaw spiced with achiote. 

The Happy Cow, meanwhile, demonstrates vegetarians aren’t an afterthought. That happens by way of foraged-and-marinated mushrooms, smoked eggplant, charred peppers and onions, melted provolone, chimichurri, spiced olive aioli and baby spinach, also on toasted ciabatta.

The most crave-conjuring, visually speaking, goes meaty in a big way: The Reefy’s piles beef brisket pastrami made and smoked in house, melted Vermont sharp cheddar, onion jam and whole grain mustard on griddled Jewish rye. 

Dang, dog. 

On a recent visit, my taste buddy and I split The Surf Trip, with spice-crusted local halibut, tasty celery root remoulade, pickled red onion, gochujang chili paste mayo and baby greens. 

There aren’t a surplus of standout fish sandwiches on Monterey Bay, and this one belongs on the short list.

We also dipped into the soup of the day, a roasted-fennel-and-tomato number with its own thoughtful touches—homemade croutons and zesty chimichurri—along for the ride. 

The soup serves as a solid rep of the smart supporting cast members like deviled egg dip, jalapeño pickles and marinated Sicilian olives. Paired with grab-and-go sandos like the half-Italian charcuterie or roast beef, it’s a powerhouse picnic ready for the nearby beach.

Longtime chef Anthony Kresge, who co-owns the spot with his wife Jennet, brings a boatload of local culinary street cred to bear. He’s worked or consulted on namecheck spots like Shadowbrook, Sotola, Vino Cruz, Seabright Deli and Belly Goat Craft Burgers.

He “traded in the tweezers for the smoker,” to use his language, in November 2020, which means a two-year anniversary is on the horizon. 

The Kresges plans to celebrate with a rebrand in the gourmet direction as Reef Dog Deli, Provisions and Fine Food with more customizable—and affordable—sandwiches, a beer and wine selection, Buddha bowls and expanded to-go marinated meats, seafood and curated items. 

The only thing missing is Reef himself, but he’s definitely there in spirit. (He passed away Feb. 6 2021, or 2/6, overlooking 26th Street after a life spent taking himself to the beach for the day or visiting neighbors’ backyard parties.) 

Anthony describes him as “everyone’s friend.”

“Reef was loving, dedicated, committed, sincere, passionate and happy,” Anthony says. “As a customer, those are the characteristics of the type of places I want to go to.” 

Now he and his team have cultivated exactly that.

More at reefdogdeli.com.