Found Treasure: Esalen’s Kitchen (and the Big Sur Fashion Show)

September 7, 2024 – Something surreal happens right before 6pm amid the famed natural hot spring pools at Esalen Institute in Big Sur. 

All of the swimsuit-optional bathers slip silently out of their stone or antique tubs, into the showers, then into their clothes. 

In unison, they’re abandoning this entire iconic complex, a hard place to access, and a harder place to leave. 

The reason for the quiet exodus quickly becomes clear: Dinner is served.

Up in the dining hall, cell phones and laptops—rare on the grounds, but present—disappear completely. Once 6-7:30pm dining commences, the WiFi stops.

Then an organic and holistic foodie banquet buffet unfurls in full: greens and vegetables grown on premises in the abundant garden and farm populate an overloaded salad pantheon; ever-rotating specials like DIY poke bars, Meatless Monday options, Cuban nights and legendary massaged kale salads energize the masses; and community picnic tables and cliffside seating pop with conversation both everyday and intergalactic. 

Welcome to Esalen’s dining hall, my vote for best cafeteria on the continent, an atypical treat given both its geography 41 twisty miles south of Carmel proper and strict restrictions around visits. (Guests must be friends of employees or participating in a workshop.) 

But two upcoming public-access opportunities throw open the doors, as does one additional—and ongoing—approach.

Sept. 10-12, Esalen hosts a special, open-to-all Altered States Workshop led by artist, scholar and traditional African cosmologist Marques Redd ($150). 

Sept. 15, meanwhile, brings in the Esalen Artist Market ($50), also open to the public. 

The 10am-8pm privileges for any of those days include either the immersive workshop or artisan marketplace (which runs 11am-3pm), unlimited soaks in the natural hot springs, and meals from the life-affirming kitchen program. 

The additional strategy is this: Day passes ($50) also await volunteers who lend a few hours to the cabin-keeping crew, garden- and farm-tending squad, or the kitchen team.

Esalen’s head of Community Engagement and Environmental Sustainability Initiatives Shelley Dearheart sees both sides benefit. 

“If you want to give back to what you experience, it’s a chance to feel the energy brought to the work, which starts with the team,” she says. “A lot of genuine heart goes into trying to create a beautiful place and beautiful experience.”

The kitchen is also where a team of apprentices participate in Esalen’s residential extended education program (or REEP), contributing to what Esalen spokesperson Shira Levine describes as a contagious vitality.

“Some have culinary backgrounds, many come out with new skills, there’s a level of creativity you can bring in, and it creates a lot of confidence,” she says. “The way chef runs it, it is open for exploration. I love the energy in the kitchen. It’s such a good vibe right now, I’m going to volunteer doing dishes next chance I can.”

Chef is Food and Beverage Manager Chloe Scott, who grew up in produce and imported produce to Alaska in a past life, before moving to places like Chicago, Napa and ultimately Big Sur, working with the likes of Michelin-starred Paul Virant and Coast’s Nick Balla.

She draws the most vibrance from the property-specific interplay of soil, produce and people.

“I feel most alive in my work when my team gets to help grow the amazing harvest from our farm, and then also prepare it with love and intention,” she says, “to provide power-packed nourishment for our guests here doing the work to reach their own best selves!”

Another pair of rarified experiences await in Big Sur. 

First up is the Big Sur Fashion Show produced by the crew from Big Sur Food & Wine, this coming Thursday, Sept. 12, at Henry Miller Library. 

Now that BSFW has been galavanting around since Obama’s first year in office (2009), many are well aware of its full-bodied blast of energy, creativity and design. So it sold out faster than you can say meta modern maximalist.

But that doesn’t mean you can’t participate. 

As with Esalen, one key to unlocking the coolest elements of El Grande South is…volunteering. 

Interested parties can check out the Fashion Show’s volunteer hub. Attendees can look for me stage-handing around or perhaps driving the shuttle bus.

Next up is the main event Big Sur Food & Wine Oct. 31-Nov. 2.

Spoiler alert: The BSFW Esalen brunch sold out in 30 minutes, before guests knew sous chefs D3 and Quinton Nuquist were preparing duck egg Spanish tortilla and smoked fresh catch Benedict, respectively.

The good news there: A few tickets remain for other BSFW events across the calendar of caloric content.

And there’s another way to enjoy access without pining after sold-out events, or paying what’s become a spendy situation. (Stop me if you’ve heard this before.) It’s by volunteering.

As I’ve testified here, I’m the certain sort of soul who prefers running logistics over swirling Sancerre—and understands there is plenty of time and waistline for both.

Volunteer coordinator Jennifer Haydu articulates the experience well.

“We keep strange hours, get to see the craziness behind the scenes and pull off things we didn’t think we could,” she says, “and we have way more fun.”

So maybe it’s time to reconsider this whole volunteer endeavor. 

Sure, contributing a little time and hustle to nonprofits like Esalen and the many great community causes BSFW and little sister BSFS support can seem noble.

But it’s really a form of self care, even self-indulgence, that adds uncommon texture to your life, at a lower cost, and with greater flavor.

Volunteer for Big Sur Food & Wine via its Get Involved tab.