Found Treasure: Cannery Row Deli

March 15, 2024 – The decor at this deli could be called cute, kitschy, mismatched and heartfelt. 

It’s also a great place to start in stacking Cannery Row Deli’s robust Found Treasure credentials.

Other credentials include its family-owned-and-operated identity, strategic/semi-secret location and strong values on made-to-order farmer’s omelets and cheese enchiladas. 

But back to the ambiance. 

Mugs with backstories hang from walls. Various tchotchkes and vintage figurines occupy shelves. A woven Monterey Bay Football Club banner dips beneath a door frame. Sodas in glass bottles and fruit fill boxes below the ordering window. A Oaxacan painting in the cozy indoor dining area matches the happy casual vibe. 

From there the modest footprint of the main space and adjoining pocket kitchen gives way to a shotgun-house style walkway that feels like it was added onto in stages. Tables tuck in where they fit, “Family Feud” plays on an elevated TV and a homey patio and small wooden deck with a plank bar overlook the Rec Trail in the back.

Every item that shares the space, says chef-owner Isidro Baroso, comes from friends and customers, which hints that the line between the two might be blurry.

“All these things are gifts,” he says. “People travel on vacation to Mexico or somewhere and bring something for me.”

His niece Jessica Baroso manned the register on our visit, offering eager attention and recommendations upon request. 

“I like working here, getting to know people,” she says.

The sturdy foodstuff covers a lot of ground for Cannery Row workers, blue collar or white, and tourists too.

“It’s a local when they know and order right away,” Isidro says. “I know their names, what they like and the coffee they’re drinking.” (CRD uses Carmel Valley Roasting Company coffee and Ghirardelli hot chocolate, and does smoothies too.)

Under the sub-headline “Take a little longer, but are worth it!” appear 10 hot sandwiches like the artichoke melt, Reuben and tuna salad melt. Those are flanked by lighter sandwiches including the Mediterranean, all-veggie South of Santa Cruz, marinated tofu wrap and smoked salmon, with both categories falling between $11.95-$16.95.

Six salads range from Caesar to Greek to lemon garlic grilled chicken (10/95-$11/95/half; $12.95-$13.95/whole). 

Breakfast bagels, granola and yogurt, a pepper jack omelet, waffle and fruit, and build-your-own sandwiches round out the menu, with safe-play kids’ items like pizza, hot dogs, grilled cheese and an egg-and-cheese burrito.

Our table shared authentic chilaquiles, a relative rarity around Monterey Bay, and a satisfying hot salami sandwich on a crunchy-and-soft sourdough roll. The latter represents a recommendation from Jessica, who also likes the chicken club, turkey melt and chilaquiles.

Baroso adds that the breakfast burritos are the bestseller, with options like bacon, chorizo, spinach and onion, chile verde pork and chicken chipotle. They all arrive with scrambled eggs, potatoes and cheese, and appear on the handwritten poster board next to the counter and bagel-and-bread bin. 

Another key treasure credential: Baroso exudes joy in the gig, noting the place opened May 5, 2020—which happens to be his birthday—after he spent a decade at Monterey Bay Aquarium’s cafe and 11 years with Round Table Pizza.

“It’s nice to have a family business,” he says, citing a staff of nieces and nephews. “And I get to do it my way.”

The long time local with me for lunch marveled at how long it’s been there without him realizing it. 

“What a great hidden little spot,” he murmured at least once. “I never knew.”

About 200 meters north from Cannery Row Deli, a mural of John Steinbeck and Mack and the Boys, the denizens of Steinbeck’s Cannery Row, overlooks the Recreation Trail. 

What would Steinbeck think about Cannery Row these days? 

Hard to say. But my instincts tell me he’d feel at home here.

Cannery Row Deli is located at 101 Drake Ave., Monterey. Hours are 7am to 3pm Monday–Saturday, 8am-2pm Sunday. More at canneryrowdeli.com