Cruising Through Carmel Valley on an August Day

August 9, 2024 – For the first time in ages all the winery parking lots were full and, in fact, most of the parking lots, regardless of location, were packed in Carmel Valley Village. Cars parked treacherously on both sides of Carmel Valley Road, some seriously compromising traffic, as they attempted to get closer to the Carmel Valley Fiesta, held annually the first weekend of August. 

Put on by the Kiwanis Club, it was a panoply of arts and crafts, food booths, live music all day, classic cars on display, a dog show, pony rides, and jump houses. It definitely brought thousands to town, including canines, which were in great abundance. Wonder if that influx of visitors spilled over to the greater economy? 

There was a modest crowd on the patio at Boekenoogen tasting room in the Village, where the menu is now a mashup of McIntyre and Boekenoogen releases. I spoke with Bill Anderson behind the counter, who described the merger of the two brands as orderly and seamless. 

“It was as smooth as you could imagine,” he said. “Respectful and straightforward.” Although the POS system was taking some getting used to by all involved. As he poured me a rosé and two Chardonnays from the McIntyre side of the house, he explained that he formerly made wine for Chateau Julien before it was purchased by Gregory Ahn and became Folktale.  

The 2019 McIntyre Estate Chardonnay, made by winemaker Byron Kosuge, was generously filled with aromas of honey and beeswax and flavors of buttery bread pudding, and yet it still showed both generous fruit and acid. With a lot more complexity, including notes of smoke, toasted cardamom, whisky and sumac, the 2019 Winemaker Series Chardonnay, made by renowned Sonoma coast winemaker, Don Van Staaveran, seemed aimed at those who prefer a little more wood. It’s definitely intriguing. 

The idea for the Winemaker Series came from Steve McIntyre’s desire to make more than one style of Chard from his vineyard each harvest. “If I’m lucky I’ll get to participate in another 20 to 30 vintages as our vineyards and wines evolve,” McIntyre says. “Collaborating with a diverse set of winemakers and viticulturists provides exciting opportunities to experiment and accelerate our pace of discovery. Each Winemaker brings their own style and experience, just as a great chef or a musician, to the process of producing a life enhancing experience best shared with others.” Great philosophy, Steve. It’s fascinating to watch them evolve. 

In the “drink me now with no hesitation” category, the 2022 Boekenoogen Estate Pinot Noir showed itself berry proud, with bright cranberry, strawberry, raspberry and cherry, along with ample spice to keep it delightfully lively and engaging. It’s a solid rendition from a very warm harvest, and a nice parting gift from Garrett and Holly, who have now moved on to pursue their chosen life passions. Bill and I talked about the impact former dairy and cattle rancher turned grape farmer, John Boekenoogen, had on the Highlands and how he willed his dream to come true, and buoyed the region with his own success to achieve greater recognition and acclaim. We were glad to have witnessed it come to pass. Now, it has been passed on to the stewardship of Steve McIntyre and his daughter, Kristen. 

Speaking of fathers, their offspring and legacies, Mark Chesebro’s son, Will, took over vintage 2023 at Chesebro Wines and did himself proud. Not only are the wines sporting a cool new woodcut looking label with a curious raven, designed by Will’s wife, but they deliver a wonderful set of summer-ready flavor experiences. All the new 2023’s from Cedar Lane Vineyard in the Arroyo Seco AVA, are very much worth acquiring as the summer heat wears on. 

We began with the 2023 Rosé of Grenache, a perfectly cheery hue.  Sporting a wildly attractive nose of raspberry and red grapefruit, they both spring forward to the palate where they are met with a vibrant core of red currant and distinctive cherry lifesaver on the finish. This could be a good porch pounder, as my friend Toni would say. 

The 2023 Chesebro Albariño is absolute aces, promising nectarines, green plum, gardenias and lime on the nose and delivering super intense flavors of peach and lime, vectoring to saltiness on the finish. At 12.9%, Will nailed this version. It could well become your beverage du jour. Wine Enthusiast gave it 91 points, and we think they were stingy. 

As much as the Albariño fills my pool, the 2023 Chesebro Vermentino is worth getting as well, for its wonderful floral, citrus and herbal notes, like dill and cardamom, all whisked along by a speedboat of mouthwatering acidity. It’s perfect for pairing with fish and fresh cheeses, and perhaps some Ad Astra olive bread with chevre.  

Will has also made a Burgundian style Chardonnay for 2023, offering up shell-like minerality, along with flint and fresh citrus. The flavors are precise and persistent, and aging in 25% new French oak for 18 months gives it a broadly appealing finish. 

All are very well priced at $28 per bottle, so don’t be shy! Put your order in now. 

Meanwhile, mark your calendars for a sunset walk through the flower fields on August 25, from 6pm until 8pm, out at Tres Pinos Valley Farm in Hollister. Glass in hand, you’ll stroll through the abundant flower fields while enjoying wine by winemaker Nat Wong of Blade and Talon, accompanied by small bites by the Tres Pinos Inn. It should be a magical evening in a fabulous setting. Wong says their duck and hen eggs are absolutely the best. They also have u pick flower fields with zinnias, dahlias, sunflowers, and cosmos, as well as dill, buckwheat, chamomile and pumpkins.  Tickets are $69.56/per person. Please pay in advance at: TresPinosWine&FlowerStroll