August 27, 2013 – They may have been slow to join the party, but tourist friendly Cannery Row restaurants are catching up fast with the “eat local” trend already wildly popular among Monterey Bay area eaters. You can find out what we mean at Edible Monterey Bay’s Fall issue release party on Wednesday, September 4th from 5-7pm at A Taste of Monterey—which this summer shifted from wine tasting room-with-a-view to full-on locavore paradise. There will be complimentary wine and appetizers, along with stunning ocean vistas. Please RSVP to info@ediblemontereybay.com. We’d love to have you join us!
With a name like A Taste of Monterey and a dedication to promoting local wines, it only made sense that the business would center its new food venture around regional flavors, says owner Ken Rauh.
“Tourists didn’t come all the way to Monterey to drink French wine,” Rauh says. “Similarly, they don’t want to go to a restaurant in Monterey and eat Australian fish. We also have this huge amount of agriculture here and want people to enjoy that.”
To pull off a farm-to-table experience, Rauh brought in Dory Ford of Aqua Terra Culinary, whose impressive menu kicked off this summer. Now, the rotation of 170 wines from 90 local wineries is complemented by local beers and a seasonal menu made with ingredients sourced from Monterey County whenever possible. 
Most of the rest comes from elsewhere in California—80 percent of the cheeses offered hail from the Golden State, for example. Chef Adam Foster, who helms the new kitchen, is perfecting artisan sodas made with local, seasonal fruits, and Aqua Terra’s fruit preserves will also soon be available at A Taste of Monterey.
For his part, Ford doesn’t think Cannery Row cuisine—typically associated with big, touristy restaurants—has changed much. “That’s why we felt this menu approach was a good fit,” he says. “I think people will be pleasantly surprised when they sit down here because it’s not typical of what you find on Cannery Row.” (The fact that their kitchen has no deep fryer is enough to set their endeavor apart from the rest, he says.)
But a look around the area does show a shift—albeit sluggish—to better eating options. Ever the trendsetter for sustainability, the Monterey Bay Aquarium debuted its reimagined restaurant, Cindy’s Waterfront, in April. Credit for the transformed menu goes to award-winning Chef Cindy Pawlcyn, who put a local and seasonal spin on California comfort food. Much of the produce comes from Swank Farms in Hollister and Coke Farms in San Juan Bautista, and chicken is sourced from Central Valley-based Mary’s Chicken. Paired with the aquarium’s Seafood Watch program (in which most Cannery Row restaurants participate) and annual Cooking for Solutions event, the restaurant drives home their message about where and how food is grown or caught.
Similarly exciting gastronomy is underfoot at InterContinental The Clement Monterey, where The C restaurant, guided by Chef Jerry Regester, has been committed to organic, local food since its conception. Monterey Bay abalone, fresh white peaches, organic asparagus and local Chanterelle mushrooms are just some of the regional delights that grace The C’s menu.
Just a short walk away, both restaurants at the Portola Hotel & Spa have plenty of notable local fare to share. Chef Jason Giles this summer debuted a new gastropub menu at Peter B’s Brewpub featuring dishes like Kevin’s Shrimp & Fennel Pasta and Tortilla Flats Soup—which is chocked with local veggies.
Even more traditional Cannery Row establishments are showing signs of change. The Fish Hopper sources heavily from Serendipity Farms, putting whatever organic produce the farm grows to use in the menu, according to the restaurant’s Liz Salgado. At Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa, diners at Schooner’s Coastal Kitchen & Bar get sustainably and locally caught seafood along with their oceanfront views.
Based on 19 years of operating A Taste of Monterey in Cannery Row, Rauh agrees that the food choices along the strip are improving. “Down here along the water, it’s definitely been kicked up a few notches,” he says. But while dining menus become more true to local flavors, Rauh says wine lists around town still have some catching up to do.
“You see local crab and fish and salads on the menus, but there are still only a few Monterey County wines offered at most places, “ he says. “If you go to Napa, you won’t see a bunch of Paso Robles and Livermore wines. Monterey County has so many different wines—something for everyone—and it’d be so much better if wine lists were predominantly local wines.”
About the author
Elizabeth Limbach is an award-winning journalist living in Santa Cruz, California. In this fruitful region and beyond, she finds the intersections of food, ag, health and the environment to be the most intriguing realms to write about. A bookworm and vegan foodie, the San Diego native has lived in Santa Cruz for a decade, relishing its redwood forests, fresh produce, delicious wines, and sparkling sea.
