Photos by Patrick Tregenza
Pastry chefs got top billing at the Dessert First Pop-Up Dinner held during the December Independent Marketplace in Sand City. Those often-unsung heroes of the kitchen had a chance to dazzle the palates of hungry diners without the interference of complicated appetizers or heavy entrées.
The four-course dessert “dinner” showcased the talents of local pastry prodigies Ron Mendoza of Aubergine at L’Auberge, Stephanie Prida of Manresa, Yulanda Santos of Sierra Mar at Post Ranch Inn, and Ben Spungin of Bernadus Lodge.
Together they make up the Central Coast Pastry Chef Coalition, a most delicious collective of like-minded pastry chefs who seek to share ideas, techniques and experiments through events like this one. “Normally you wouldn’t just order dessert at a fine dining restaurant,” says Mendoza. “This was an opportunity for us to try each other’s food in a more casual setting.”
Looking around the many dishes being plated behind the scenes, Mendoza said he was pleased to see some curious techniques from each chef, all distinctly different. Santos’ “Meyer Lemon Tree” paid homage to the entire tree and even used white chocolate that had been smoked with the tree bark. Lemons were picked fresh from Peter and Janie Eichorn’s Big Sur property. Prida’s Peppermint Mallow Ice Cream was something of the heavens. Mendoza drew inspiration for his dish from a painting by Ann Getsinger entitled Grapefruit, Pear and Pine.
Peering at us from across the prep tables were Spungin’s playful and chocolaty “Moustaches and Glasses” waiting their turn as part of the Mignardise course—the dessert of the desserts, if you will. Spungin was also responsible for edible dirt—a combination of chocolate cake and mousse—used in the potted succulent centerpieces dotting the dining tables.
The menu, plus wine pairings, was enough to rattle all of your sweet teeth and send your blood sugar soaring for the next five days. I began to wonder how anyone would be able to sleep that night.
The event was accompanied by live music, savory canapés, and cocktails served up by The Drinks Mixtress, Vanessa Share, formerly of Sierra Mar, and personal chef Marcia Churchill. Photography on display by local artist Michelle Magdalena made for a dramatic backdrop to the two long communal tables at the gallery’s center. About 70 were in attendance, including friends and colleagues of the chefs who were eager to try their latest creations and a chance to see them outside of their usual locale.
Proceeds for Dessert First benefitted MEarth, a non-profit environmental education center at Carmel Middle School’s Habitat, devoted to strengthening connections between students, the earth, and its preservation. MEarth garden program director Tanja Roos was thrilled when Mendoza approached to link up with this event. The two initially met last year during an Art Culinaire photo shoot at Aubergine, where Roos assisted friend and food photographer Eric Wolfinger. Additional support from Todd Champagne of Happy Girl Kitchen, host of an earlier pop-up dinner benefitting MEarth, helped forge this new relationship.
“It is the rich and mutually beneficial partnerships, like these, that make our organization thrive,” beamed Roos. “We are deeply grateful for the wonderful work that all these folks do and that they selected us to be a part of this fantastic evening!”
All food and wine was provided by the restaurants. The event raised around $3,000 for MEarth, and brought interest and awareness to chefs and diners alike about the important work being done at the Habitat.
“Many of [the chefs] have expressed interest in coming to visit our gardens and new kitchen and possibly even do a cooking class with the kids!” says Roos. “We’ll see. . . I am thrilled to call them friends and look forward to creative collaborations in the future.”
All in all, a sweet success.
About the author
At Edible Monterey Bay, our mission is to celebrate the local food culture of Santa Cruz, San Benito and Monterey Counties, season by season. We believe in sustainability, and we believe everyone has a right to healthful, clean and affordable food. We think knowing where our food comes from is powerful, and we hope our magazine, website and newsletters inspire readers to get to know and support our local growers, fishers, chefs, vintners and food artisans.
