Courtesy John Cox, executive chef, Sierra Mar at Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur
Serves 4
Steelhead trout is an important species of fish in the Big Sur watershed. Unfortunately the wild population has reached critically low levels, so we use sustainable steelhead from Mt. Lassen, Calif., in this preparation.
For the Trout In the restaurant we cook the trout sous vide and then quickly brown it in a sauté pan. This creates an incredibly delicate flavor and texture, infusing the trout with the aromatics. But if you are not set up at home to cook sous vide, simply cooking the trout in a sauté pan also works well.
2 pounds steelhead trout filets, skin carefully removed
1 Meyer lemon, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 small bay laurel leaf
4 tablespoons Meyer lemon agrumato
4 twigs thyme
2 tablespoons rice oil
Sea salt
Cut the trout into four equal portions. Place all ingredients into a vacuum bag and seal. Cook trout in a thermal circulator (sous vide machine) at 43° C for 25 minutes. In a large, heavy-bottomed sauté pan over high heat, bring rice oil to smoking point. Remove trout from bag and dry with paper towel. Place in pan to brown; remove with fish spatula once bottom has browned (about 30 seconds).
Alternative method (without sous vide): Add oil to sauté pan and bring up to smoking point. Add the trout to brown, then flip, remove from heat and add the remaining aromatics off the heat.
Crispy Trout Skin Chips
Skin from trout filet, all scales and meat removed
2 cups rice oil
Kosher salt
Place the trout skin on a nonstick baking sheet and flatten as much as possible. Bake the skin in a low oven with fan until dry (3 to 4 hours). Bring the rice oil to just below the smoking point in a wide saucepot. Break off a small amount of the skin and drop into the oil—it should puff up immediately. If it does not, oil is too cold. If it puffs and browns, it is too hot. Adjust temperature as needed and repeat test. Once proper oil temperature is reached, break the skin into four pieces and fry in oil. Rest fried skins on a paper towel-lined plate and season with salt.
Sorrel Purée At Post Ranch we have many types of wild and cultivated sorrel. For the sauce we use French sorrel from our garden. This sorrel has a bright and delicate citrus flavor and bright green color. Unfortunately, however, the color is very volatile and the slightest bruising or heat will turn it Army green. To maintain the sorrel’s color and flavor, this sauce needs to be made at the very last minute.
2 cups almond milk
1 tablespoon tarragon leaves
12 chives
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1/4 avocado
1/2 cup spinach leaves
2 cups French sorrel leaves, stems removed
Salt, to taste
Just before serving, put all items in blender and blend until smooth. Season with salt, to taste.
Lemon Verbena-Braised Turnips
12 baby turnips, well scrubbed
2 tablespoons butter
4 lemon verbena leaves
1 tablespoon Meyer lemon juice
Salt, to taste
Put butter in a sauté pan over medium heat. Once butter starts to bubble, add the turnips. Add the verbena leaves, lemon juice and salt. Continue cooking over low heat until turnips are fork tender but not brown.
Optional Garnishes
- Wild-foraged sorrels: sheep sorrel, oxalis leaves, oxalis roots, wild blue oxalis or oxalis flowers
- Cultivated sorrels: red-veined sorrel, French sorrel
- Smoked steelhead trout roe or trout caviar
About the author
At Edible Monterey Bay, our mission is to celebrate the local food culture of Santa Cruz, San Benito and Monterey Counties, season by season. We believe in sustainability, and we believe everyone has a right to healthful, clean and affordable food. We think knowing where our food comes from is powerful, and we hope our magazine, website and newsletters inspire readers to get to know and support our local growers, fishers, chefs, vintners and food artisans.
