Hog’s Breath Inn—‘Tribute, Not Reinvention’—Soft Opens

Aug. 12, 2025—Talk about a capital-B Breath of fresh air.

And not just because the return of The Hog’s Breath Inn in Carmel, which opened with zero publicity this weekend, restores a rare community jewel to more than its past prestige, at least aesthetically and structurally.

It’s also energizing because this 1-square-mile town, with limited options for character-rich watering holes—and two of the best, Barmel and Sade’s, on their last dregs—could use an infusion of fun.

One of the more compelling notes there seems like a paradox at first.

Owner Lee Morcus has invested a ton of resources to lay Carmel stone in the dining room, custom-milled redwood slab tables on the courtyard, and install high-back leather in the booths, with design painter super-estrella Lisa Haas and her team updating the murals and other art to gorgeous glory.

But despite all the new elements, he’s not trying to do anything new (with some exceptions on food and drink).

He’s trying very intentionally and vociferously looking to restore what came before.

Judging a restaurant by its website generally represents bad policy. 

Maybe it’s because I’ve visited several times during its reconstruction, talked with both Morcus and Mayor Dale Byrne about the space and the inspiration behind it, and—like many local boars with mature bristles—knew the Hog in its heyday (or at least the tail end).

And the website affirms the philosophy I’ve seen and heard.

The website debuted this week, and the menus look solid, the sourcing details provide comfort, and the earnest—and lofty—language feels genuine.

Some choice cuts, Brandt Family Farms all-natural 35-day-aged filet mignon and boneless ribeye steaks aside: 

• “Some places are restaurants. Others are institutions.”

• “Every detail…was chosen to preserve the Hog’s original soul and rustic charm, while enhancing the guest experience. This is not a reinvention. It is a tribute.”

• And the kicker, in case you didn’t catch it the first time: “The Hog’s Breath Inn has been lovingly restored and respectfully reimagined—a project born of reverence, not reinvention.”

On top of local go-tos like grilled Castroville artichokes, “the Peninsula’s finest” clam chowder, sautéed sand dabs, and shrimp louie, some dishes stand out on the menu.

Those include the Italian Fisherman Fritto Misto ($29) with flash-fried calamari, shrimp, artichoke hearts, green beans, zucchini, carrots; and hearty sandwiches like the Piled-High Plains Drifter prime rib French dip ($32) and the Hang Em High and Slow barbecue pork carnitas sandwich ($32).

And the Hog’s baby back ribs with Hog’s bourbon ($36) and Burger With No Name with thick-cut applewood-smoked bacon, sharp cheddar, HOGS peach, bourbon, chipotle BBQ sauce and an onion ring ($29.50).

Morcus brings considerable industry experience to bear after years with The Kaiser Restaurant Group, named for his dad, a longtime friend of one cowboy named Clint Eastwood.

Per PalmSprings.com, Morcus and his father opened their first restaurant, Kaiser Grille Palm Desert, in 1992 and once directed seven spots in that area like Prime Chop House, The Grind, Jackalope Ranch and The New Chop House at the Indian Wells Tennis Garden.

Now they’re focusing on Kaiser Grille and the Hog’s Breath Inn.

Mayor Byrne, better known as Mayor Dale, counts himself as an early adopter of The Hog sequel. (He also eats out pretty much every day of the week in Carmel—with his wife, Hamilton the miniature poodle and Blue the 6-pound terrier-Maltese—so he has some depth of perspective.)

“It’s just an iconic place in Carmel,” Byrne says. “When you walk in the experience is simply unique—and breathtaking.” (Emphasis added.)

And there you go. Like any good Buddhist—or Carmel restaurant vet—will tell you, you should always return the Breath.

The Hog Breath Inn’s hours are 11:30-3:30pm and 4-11pm daily, until midnight Friday-Saturday. More at hogsbreathinn.net.