Going Public: Private Property Showcases Underappreciated Monterey County Sites

PHOTOGRPAHY BY MICHELLE MAGDALENA AND JOSH ROSE

Scott Caraccioli made it his mission to craft the finest sparkling wine possible in the Santa Lucia Highlands, from Escolle Vineyard, under the Caraccioli Cellars label. Now he’s turning his attention to lesser- known vineyards in the region, with the label Private Property.

“Escolle Vineyard is the backbone of the Caraccioli Cellars style: elegant, age worthy and collectible,” says Caraccioli, fourth generation farmer and grape grower. “Private Property allows me to offer wines in a fresh and fruit-forward style from previously under-the-radar Monterey vineyards.”

STRONG ROOTS

Caraccioli Cellars was launched in 2006 by brothers Gary and Phil Caraccioli, who have operated a large produce company for generations. Gary’s son Scott studied with the late Michel Salgues, a Champagne Roederer-trained Frenchman with experience in methode champenoise, and created a stunning French cave-like Carmel tasting room and sophisticated packaging worthy of the juice.

The buzz was instant. The rewards were many.

Caraccioli Brut and Brut Rosé consistently won both domestic and international awards, including four consecutive titles for Best Sparkling Wine in the USA at the Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships, drawing new visitors to the region and earning placements on top restaurant lists.

But with success came constraints.

“Caraccioli Cellars is very regimented,” says Scott. “We are carefully farming one specific site to produce a sophisticated, age-worthy product.”

In addition, Caraccioli Cellars sticks exclusively to four varietals (Chardonnay, pinot noir, gamay noir and syrah), and each bottle of sparkling ages up to 58 months before release.

Talk about delayed gratification. Private Property can bring good wine to market faster, and with greater freedom. “Private Property is youthful and approachable,” Caraccioli says. “It’s all about showcasing the fruit.”

That’s born out in the audacious and searing sauvignon blanc, and the boldly adventurous gamay and syrah blend, which does cartwheels across your palate.

The Private Property sparklings age only 18–30 months. Where oak is used for aging, it is mostly neutral.

“Basically,” Caraccioli says, “these are pretty naked wines.”

“There is always an opportunity when you are looking for it.”

MORE OF A GOOD THING

While vineyards like Double L, Doctors, Garys’, Pisoni and Rosella’s have raised the Santa Lucia Highlands to cult status, Caraccioli believes a whole host of other SLH vineyards will prove worthy of recognition in their own right.

“Private Property gives me an opportunity to showcase what’s in my backyard,” he says. “It’s a remarkable quilt of what makes up Monterey County. It celebrates our agrarian roots. This is home for me. I want to celebrate other people’s dirt.”

Navigating the Salinas Valley grapevine, he uncovers producers growing the varietals he seeks, from the soils he prefers, in conditions he favors, with farming practices he prioritizes.

“Sourcing grapes is a different skill set than farming your own vineyard,” Caraccioli says.

His hunt led to a gnarly Tablas Creek clone grenache on the old Hook Vineyard, which he felt would be perfect for a juicy rosé he had in mind. Then he found the perfect pinot noir to complement it from the top of the Leven Valley Vineyard, south of Escolle, which happens to be in the middle of a lemon grove.

“There is always an opportunity when you are looking for it,” he says. “In fact, we have 40,000 acres of opportunity in Monterey County!”

He looks specifically for hand-harvested vineyards, most of which are SIP Certified and organic, like Highlands Ranch, where Kirk Williams farms beautiful Chardonnay Caraccioli knew would make dynamite sparkling.

“The juice was like amped up lemonade,” he says. Williams, who also sells grapes to Odonata Winery, is eager to work with trusted winemakers like Caraccioli, and proud to have his Highlands Ranch fruit showcased by the new brand.

“Now I have the two premiere sparkling producers in the [Salinas] Valley,” he says, “I’m pretty happy with that!”

When Caraccioli discovered a 3-acre block of sauvignon blanc in the old Paraiso Vineyards—that was planted in 2016 to Clone 1 on east/west rows—he couldn’t believe his luck.

When he tasted the grapes, he thought, “This stuff is electric with tropical fruit and candied lemon. It is bound to be a winner in the bottle.” Jeff Crank, whose title is general manager of the Coastal California Regions at AgIS Capital—owner of Paraiso Vineyards—was thrilled to find a partner who strives “to showcase the property’s potential.”

“That is precisely what Scott Caraccioli does,” Crank says. “It was apparent from the beginning that Scott’s project was not just a line addition to his brand but a reflection of his pursuit.” For Caraccioli, that pursuit comes back to fruit and accessibility, again and again.

“There’s a fun and inviting ‘grapeness’ to Private Property,” he says.

“More like a paperback than a leatherbound classic.”

The brightly colored labels, color-coded to reflect the personality and composition of the wines in the bottle, channel that liberty.

“I’m giving people access to a different set of wines in a more youthful, fresher style,” Caraccioli says. “It gives people more choice.”

Mike Kohne of Crave Wine Co. is among those who have observed Caraccioli since its beginning, and sounds energized by the new chapter.

“The Caraccioli family’s commitment to producing stellar sparkling wines has been evident since their inaugural release,” Kohne says. “Now, across the portfolio, the Caraccioli and Private Property wines continue to inspire—and elevate—an entire winegrowing region.”