December 20, 2024 – The food truck appears like a mirage, glimmering on the farm field horizon, the ethereal effect enhanced by the afternoon sun bouncing off reflective ground covers.
A simple sign on the windshield—VEGAN TACOS—echoes the simplicity of the menu, which lists a handful of tacos (to go with lime wedges, house salsas and bottled Cokes and Fantas).
The food focus fits the day-dreamy visuals. For many, “vegan tacos” are a mythical aspiration, something great in theory but elusive in execution.
Not here.
Meat-free magic happens courtesy of the husband and wife team behind Fredo’s Tacos, Fredo Estrada and Alessia Hernandez, parked out in between Moss Landing proper and Castroville, where Molera and Highway 1 meet, next to the Thistle Hut.
Their simple fundamentals: Use a great base, whether produce or textured protein, and nail the bright Mexican flavors.
That approach shines with the two most tempting items, which I tested on friends, one a former vegetarian, the other a pescatarian for a quarter century.
The two taste buddies also rank as the most finicky and opinionated palates in my circle, so the fact they both went thumbs way up is doubly meaningful.
The enthusiasm is understandable: The hongos/champiñones/mushroom tacos flat-out pop.
Estrada shrugs when asked how he summons complexity and yum, heightened by the dynamite house tomatillo sauces, in both mild (green) and chili pepper spicy (red) shades.
“It’s basically the right ratio of grilled onions and spices on the mushrooms,” he says.
I came at the al pastor more skeptically. I’m not a purist on many things, but with al pastor I seek the variety spun on huge trompos like they do in the roll-gate taquerias of Mexico City where they were invented.
At Fredo’s they marinate their preferred textured non-GMO soy protein in al pastor spices like garlic, chipotle, cumin and achiote, then sizzle it to order. That means no crispy edges like the slow-roasted pork version, but this guilt-free take impresses nonetheless.
Fredo’s also does soy-based “asada,” soy-pumpkin seed green “chorizo” and garbanzo-sunflower seed red “chorizo.”
All tacos are $3 each.
Estrada and Hernandez park in the fields to take advantage of traffic between Santa Cruz and Monterey, and keep the menu limited because it’s enough for the two of them as is.
They source tortillas from Hollister’s La Piedad Tortilla Factory because—keeping with the simplicity theme—Piedad uses only three ingredients, namely corn, water and lime.
Inspiration for the overall operation comes from two directions.
One was observing a friend’s successful vegan taco shop in Tulum, Mexico, and similar outfits in Mexico City’s Roma neighborhood.
“Every time we’d go out there and eat the tacos, we’d wonder, ‘Why is this the only place I can eat them?’” Estrada says. “I thought it would be a good idea to have those flavors and experience for people who don’t eat meat.”
Another is an abiding affection for creatures like their adopted French bulldog Oli.
“Our motivation for vegan is mainly animals,” Estrada says. “It’s good to see dogs and all animals be happy.”
It’s not classified intelligence that eating less meat does good for planetary and human health.
What’s less understood is that eating animal-free can be more celebration than depravation.
The young couple behind Fredo’s gets that, with the added uplift of spending time together.
“We are able to build the food truck together, which is something I really value and appreciate,” Hernandez says. “We’re not just seeing each other for a couple of hours a day.”
Additional enjoyment arrives with each new convert who pulls over to give them a shot.
“The majority have never tried anything like this,” she says, “but when they experience the traditional flavors, they’re not hard to convince. It reminds them of the flavor they had as kids.”
And flavor I will be having every time I have time to stop.
Fredo’s Tacos operates 11:30am-6pm Thursday-Sunday next to the Thistle Hut in Moss Landing. More at @fredos_vegan_tacos on Instagram and Facebook.
About the author
Mark C. Anderson, Edible Monterey Bay's managing editor, appears on "Friday Found Treasures" via KRML 94.7 every week, a little after 12pm noon. Reach him via mark@ediblemontereybay.com.
