Aubergine Earns Much-Deserved Second Michelin Star

August 6, 2024 – On a night overstuffed like the Michelin Man’s suit—with anticipation and exuberance, with luminaries like Dominique Crenn, Thomas Keller and Curtis Stone, with sardine tartlets and Petrossian caviar and “solid sangria” made from compressed Asian pears—a few things stood out. 

And some positively glowed.

First up was an establishing shot and accompanying thought: Maggie Lang, San Francisco Peninsula Convention and Visitors Bureau spokeswoman, stood on a Ritz Carlton terrace next to the Half Moon Bay, and summed up the stakes for an evening that would award three Michelin spots two stars for the first time. 

“It’s game-changing,” she said, “and career-changing.”

Next came a press tour of the dining space. As it was ending, I pulled aside Ritz Carlton HMB restaurant manager Brian Browne and asked him if diners are getting more aware of what goes into a place that merits star consideration. 

“Yes—people are more interested in turning around, and looking at steps of service, being curious, and understanding the intensity that goes into it,” he said.

Then he agreed they can’t have a clue till they do it themselves, which led me to ask how he finds the focus to do it shift after shift, day after day, week after week. 

“We like to focus on the little things, starting with ingredients, and making sure everyone has their own individualized dining experience,” he said. “Doing the little things recharges my battery, even if it’s straightening out a fork.”

Next came the gentle whirlwind of pre-awards flavor, a romp through items like Half Moon Bay artichoke paella, whole-roasted Sonoma Liberty duck and Monterey spot prawn cornets that set a tiny amount of anxiety on the back burner—just for a bite—while the puffy Michelin Man posed for pics.

When the music changed and the lights flickered, the room needed no more urging to turn attention to the stage.

Lynn Carpenter of Visit California—which helped entice Michelin to finally widen the aperture on its Golden State inspections—provided some state-centric hype for the moment. 

“We are the ultimate playground for food,” she said. “It doesn’t matter what kind of play you love, everyone loves to play with food.”

It’s a valid point. As often as California is cited as the fifth biggest economy in the world, it’s less common to hear it celebrated as arguably the strongest sub-national foodscape on the planet. 

The Golden State now holds a record number of stars, with 85 starred spots in the 2024 edition of the Michelin Guide California. 

Emcee and TV personality AJ Gibson—after admitting his kitchen credentials amounted to work at Cheesecake Factory in Columbus, Ohio, and watching “The Bear”—noted that “innovation fostered in California spreads around the world.” 

Other poignant morsels emerged from there, including Chez Noir retaining the star it won in a remarkably short time period. 

Vespertine chef Jordan Kahn noted his restaurant’s impressive double accolade—a green star for sustainability, and two Michelin stars—happen in harmony. 

“You can do both at the same time!” he said. “Pay attention to what nature provides, and work with that.”

One of the recipients of the special awards—I’m thinking it was Exceptional Cocktails Award winner Trevin Hutchins (Aphotic), but it could’ve been Sommelier Award winner Ian Krupp (Anajak Thai) or even Outstanding Service winner Rachel Silcocks (Hilda & Jesse)—emphasized dining out as a team sport. 

“This recognition is about the people that come to see us,” he said. 

That’s when a specific sort of glowing got going. 

Aubergine executive chef Justin Cogley is a soft-spoken individual more prone to shy understatement than big grins, a quiet storm if there ever was one. 

So when I heard from a close collaborator that he was “a knot of nerves,” it only added to the suspense. 

Then came the announcement Aubergine had earned two stars, and the glow was unmistakable.

He smiled wide on stage, and I wasn’t alone in feeling happy for him, partner/operations guru Janet Elarmo, owner David Fink and the Aubergine team—and for Michelin, for finally getting it right.

He took the opportunity to spread the love. 

“It’s an amazing achievement for the Central Coast,” Cogley said, “I couldn’t be more proud,” which ignited perhaps the loudest hurrah of the night.

Emcee Gibson maximized the moment when he saw moisture on Cogley’s cheeks.

“I’m only supposed to ask him one question, but as…the tears start flowing, I’m going to ask [Cogley] now, if you could say something to a young you, what would you say to him?”

“Never give up,” Cogley replied without pause.

Two thoughts struck me when he said that. 

One, just how much attention Cogley and his team pay to the little details Browne was talking about—and how Buddhist masters like Tara Brach like to riff on attention as a fundamental form of love.

If hospitality is the art of care, attention becomes everything. 

Two, I’m one of dozens, if not scores or hundreds, who have asked Cogley if Aubergine deserves two stars—and how he navigated being at that level without the official designation. 

As on stage last night, he never hesitated in responding, and never sounded frustrated.

He’d tell me it’s challenging to operate flawlessly on every given dinner service, and that his team draws vast satisfaction from being a place gourmands-in-the-know plan whole trips around. 

That, in turn, took me back to the previous Michelin California celebration, 2023’s awards in Oakland.

Just after Aubergine was denied a second star, its pastry chef Yulanda Santos registered a similar tone to Cogley—not salty but seasoned by experience, as focused and as dedicated as ever. 

“It’s always great to be recognized, and Michelin is a big deal,” she said, “but at the end of the day, it’s our guests and what we’re doing with them to make the experience the best possible.”

Which can sound like a little thing, but ends up being the biggest.