March 26, 2024 – The visit to new Peruvian-Japanese fusion joint Oyuki Sushi came with a specific cause in mind. Then that trip generated another half dozen causes to return, among them solid values, warm mom-and-pop leadership and Inca Kola.
Causa is Spanish for cause. It’s also the name given to a Peruvian dish composed of layers of smashed potatoes, sauces and protein, often seafood.
They’re so titled because back in the 1870s, Peruvian home cooks would sell them in the street to support fighters in a war with neighboring Chile, an effort known as The Cause.
As Edible outlined in the Lima, Peru, chapter of the “Eat the World” global epicure odyssey, the ancient Incan culture not only cultivated thousands of types of potatoes, those big papas helped the Allies win World Wars—and causas are an outstanding way to enjoy potatoes with maximum enjoyment and Andes authenticity.
At Oyuki, they come as smaller “causitas,” in triplicate, each topped with their own crown of shrimp, squid and chicken. (We swapped out the chicken for another shrimp.)
Like the rest of the menu, the causitas are simple, sturdy, satisfying and superbly sauced.
There are other Peruvian appetizers—like baked mussels in spicy mayo sweet sauce, papa a la huacaina (potato slices in aji Amarillo-and-cheese sauce) and choros a la chalaca (steamed mussels with corn, cilantro, onion, tomato and traditional spices)—and Peruvian entrees like albacore ceviche, lomo saltado, beef heart anticuchos and chicken ají.
Other things to note include nigiri plates, sashimi dinners and salmon teriyaki plates.
We almost ordered another round of causitas, but instead turned to a choice from the regular rolls ($5.99-$7.99) menu, the Gilroy with albacore, salmon, avocado and cucumber. Then arrived an acevichado roll—one of 14 different special rolls ($16.95-$18.95)—which brings on avocado, cucumber and shrimp tempura inside, and tuna, crunchy bits and the acevichado sauce in its name, a habit-forming and lightly spicy dressing made from mayo and leche de tigre, often used to cure ceviche.
Two distinctly regional beverages accompanied that: Inca Kola, in all its intensely yellow color and insanely sweet bubble gum flavor; and an easy-drinking Andes Mountains staple called chicha morada (which translates to “purple drink” literally and a sweet purple corn juice in the glass).
Owner-operator-spouses Carla Estrada and Maynor Lopez, who designed the restaurant logo with her two kids in mind, expected a slow opening period.
“We thought it would be bad at first,” Estrada says, only to encounter an enthusiastic and steady audience, even with a handful of nearby sushi spots nearby. “Locals responded really well.”
Lopez enjoys Japanese, Mexican and Peruvian heritage, and while working the floor as server-hostess, emphasized the latter.
“Peruvian food is my favorite in the world,” she says. “It’s light and healthy, with bright flavors.”
The menu results from the couple’s fondness for Nikkei-style sushi. Food Network characterizes Nikkei as Peruvian ingredients kissed with Japanese techniques, citing fish spiced with aji pepper and lime rather than wasabi and soy sauce.
Here the interplay makes historical sense, given 1) the significant amount of Japanese immigrants to Peru in the late 19th and early 20th centuries; and 2) Estrada’s 15 years working at Ninja Sushi in Gilroy.
It finds vivid expression with a nigiri sampler Maynor sent our way, with tastes of albacore, salmon and yellowtail tuna flash seared with a blowtorch and sparked with elements like aji amarillo and house chimichurri.
The space formerly belonged to plant-based The Buzz Sushi, and the animal-free options persist.
Put differently, if you’re a vegan who loves sushi, this is your yam—as in the Warrior Special with yam, vegan cream cheese, zucchini and garlic topped with avocado, spicy mayo, nuts and a house sweet sauce.
Another vegan play among a half dozen special vegan choices ($14.95-$17.95) would be the Machu Picchu with avocado, spinach, carrot, cucumber, seasoned mushroom, spicy mayo and carrot-based vegan “salmon.” (There are also six more “regular” vegan offerings like the Philly and spicy tofu, $5.95-$10.95.)
The restaurant name borrows directly from Carla’s nickname, family and friends call her that because of her resemblance to the title character in Mexican telenovela “The Sin of Oyuki.”
The only thing remotely sinful here—besides the use of eel, which isn’t sustainable outside of a few farms, max—would be the fact the modest square footage fills up fast.
That has customers already encouraging Oyuki Sushi, in all its fresh fusion friendliness, to find a larger home.
The 24-seat space, not counting a pair of outdoor tables, lends itself to the personalized and family-run vibe of the place.
Still, it’s hard not to agree that the good energy at work, and Peruvian flavors in general, merit a bigger stage.
They’re a cause for celebration.
Oyuki Sushi is located at 1010 Pacific Ave., Suite F, in Santa Cruz. More at oyukisushi.com
About the author
Mark C. Anderson, Edible Monterey Bay's managing editor, appears on "Friday Found Treasures" via KRML 94.7 every week, a little after 12pm noon. Reach him via mark@ediblemontereybay.com.
