September 29, 2023 – DeRose Vineyards in Hollister is well known to wine lovers for its casual and dark cellar atmosphere that somehow accentuates the serious intent of winegrowers Pat and Alphonse DeRose.
Located on the property formerly known as Almaden Vineyards—the oldest commercial winery in California, dating back to 1852—the original DeRose tasting room and winery keeps alive a winemaking tradition. Almaden Vineyards actually started out in San Jose, but fled urban growth in 1953 for the wilds of San Benito County, blessed with cheaper land and vineyards previously planted 100 years earlier by French and German immigrants.
One hundred of those original vineyard acres were inherited by the DeRose family and their partners, as part of the purchase of the Almaden Vineyards assets back in 1988. It’s not every winery that has the privilege of being a custodian to vineyards that are far older than any living family member. The DeRose Vineyards were originally planted in 1855, with some planted in 1905. It’s a taste of history that can be yours, at the recently opened second DeRose tasting room in San Martin.
Fortunately for wine lovers and casual visitors, there are actually two tasting rooms at this location on Fitzgerald Avenue, between Monterey Road and Santa Teresa, still surrounded by farmland, and in this case, by vineyards. DeRose shares a warehouse here with Little Uvas Wines, a fairly new brand begun by Rich and Rosy Bergin, who recently sold their popular Morgan Hill restaurant, Rosy’s At The Beach. It’s being run by long time employees, so everything is still pretty much status quo, which is a good thing.
The new San Martin tasting room is not too far from Highway 101, but it’s just far enough, if you know what I mean. Set on a huge lot featuring an auto restoration shop (oh, that gorgeous grey and black El Camino is just what I’ve been looking for!) the two tasting rooms are open Friday afternoons, when the Bergin’s crank up their pizza oven. On weekends, the two wineries bring in food trucks. There’s a genuine farmstand, LJB Farms, less than a quarter mile down the road where you can find the best-looking pumpkins and gourds ever, along with a great selection of Indian corn for $1 per ear. Speaking of ears, they still had fresh corn—both yellow and white—as of last week, and their peaches were the best I’ve had all season.
For those who’ve been to the DeRose tasting room on Cienega Road in the wilds of the Hollister hills, this new San Martin spot is a whole new vibe.
For one, even though the tasting room essentially shares space in a garage with Bergin’s wide-ranging auto collection, the place is well lit, and the bar, fashioned from reclaimed barn wood with a hammered copper top, gleams with hospitality. The walls are adorned with photos of Pat and Al DeRose, the father-son duo that made DeRose a household name in the San Benito hills and beyond.
Al’s sister Marietta and her talented graphic artist husband Don Barnes run the tasting room and are gracious hosts. Don is especially well-versed in the history of the DeRose winery brand and the magnificent old vine vineyard that provides the incomparable fruit for many of their wines. Since Al has been making wine for the Bergins for the last three years, he has access to some of their fruit. When I ran into Rosy last week, while admiring the auto collection, she said, “We’re running out of whites! Everyone loves our Sauv Blanc and we can’t keep up!”
The Bergins grow Barbera, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah on the 7-acre property that surrounds the tasting rooms. They acquired some Regan Vineyard Chardonnay in 2021, but now use DeRose Vineyard as a fruit source for their Chardonnay, which is done with full malo for a rich, buttery style.
Although the beautiful bar is a great place to hang for a spell, you might prefer to be seated at one of the many tables in the tasting room/garage to enjoy a flight of DeRose wines, which begins with a cold glass and splash of DeRose Chardonnay, followed by a flight of wines, served in small carafes. You’ll be left to enjoy the wines at your pace, although you can ask Don for the backstory on the winery and the vineyard and any of the wines, as he will gladly share.
Among the many other wines available for tasting are the 2018 Pinot Noir, robust and generous of dark cherry, blackberry and boysenberry, with firm tannins to complement the abundant fruit; and the 2021 Super Tuscan Blend, a satisfying cherry pie combo of Sangiovese, Negrette, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The first two grapes are from Hollister and the latter two are from the Little Uvas Vineyard.
Negrette was known as Pinot St. George back when it was planted at the DeRose vineyard in 1855, but whatever you call it, the grape is dark skinned, tiny of berry, and hard to ripen. When it does get there, it’s fat with blackberry and blueberry and ample tannins.
The old DeRose vineyard also has beautiful old vine Zin and Cabernet Pfeffer, planted in 1905, along with Cabernet Franc. These dry-farmed vines are still producing extraordinary wines to this day, using native yeast only, and very little new oak. You could say they are authentic to the original award-winning wines that came off this land, except, thankfully, they are no longer made in big redwood tanks. You really cannot leave the DeRose tasting room without trying the old vine Negrette and the Cab Pfeffer. Winemaker Alphonse DeRose also makes Negrette from the Siletto Vineyard, in San Benito County.
Additionally, the DeRose family grows Viognier and 10 acres of old Wente clone Chardonnay, which is made in several styles. “The Sharknose Chardonnay is made from our estate Chard, is bottled a little younger, and is filtered,” Alphonse told us. “The DeRose Chardonnay is barrel aged longer and is from one specific block on our property, my preferred block actually. It is bigger and richer, and bottled unfiltered.” Let’s just say, they’re all well made and each one has a tale, and that is the beauty of wine.
Under the Alchemy label from Chile, you can also sample Carménère, Syrah and Malbec, and if you like sparkling, you can purchase bottles of crémant sparkling Auxerrois, as well as rosé and Symphonie, a hybrid that you won’t soon forget, with its sweet summer garden of perfume.
Because the DeRose tasting room in San Martin shares space with a very active auto restoration shop that specializes in Detroit muscle cars, it’s fitting that some of the DeRose labels feature classic old automobiles, including the 2018 Continental Cab that sports a 1957 Mark II, and is made from old vine Cab Pfeffer and Cab Franc. There’s also that youthful Sharknose Chardonnay, and a righteous Hollywood Red blend: perfect gifts for that car collector, who might happen to be you.
Once again, it’s a nod to the enduring relevance of history.
DeRose San Martin Tasting Room
255 Fitzgerald Avenue
San Martin, CA
Fridays 2:00–7:00
Saturdays & Sundays 12:00–5:00
Directions
About the author
Laura Ness is a longtime wine journalist, columnist and judge who contributes regularly to Edible Monterey Bay, Spirited, WineOh.Tv, Los Gatos Magazine and Wine Industry Network, and a variety of consumer publications. Her passion is telling stories about the intriguing characters who inhabit the fascinating world of wine and food.
