March 7, 2023 – The Wente Family, with deep roots in the Monterey viticulture scene, is celebrating 140 years as a continuously family-owned and operated winery this year, the only such place in the US.
While it pales in the face of multi-century wine dynasties from France, Italy and Spain, it is a unique accomplishment in North America. On top of this milestone, one of the senior statesmen of the family, Eric Wente, now Chairman Emeritus, was recently honored for his 45-year career in the industry. On February 25, he was officially installed as a Supreme Knight by the Monterey Chapter of the Brotherhood of the Knights of the Vine, at a special Assemblage, complete with sword ceremony.
Richard Kehoe, who has been a member for 30 years, has been Chapter Commander for six of them. Says Kehoe, “People in the world of wine need to be better recognized and honored for what they have contributed to the field. On February 25th, the Knights of the Vine honored Eric Wente as ‘Supreme Knight’ in our wine brotherhood.”
Wente has been a member of Monterey chapter of Knights of the Vine for 35 years, as his family’s roots go deep in the area.
“We began planting grapes in Arroyo Seco in 1962,” says Wente. “We continually replant to maintain vigor and quality, but we still have some vines from 1990. Between what we own and what we lease, we are farming about 900 acres in Arroyo Seco.” That’s a long legacy and makes the Wente’s true pioneers in the Monterey grape industry.
I didn’t know much about this Knights of the Vine organization, but a little research clued me in that it stems from the pageantry of 13th French royalty and knighthood.
Alas, a common, but not so congenial practice of poisoning ones foes and rivals, often with tainted wines, was not uncommon. Thus arose a need for guaranteeing that wines served to royalty were not intentionally fatal. A special order of wine knights grew and made the wines to be served at royal tables right up until the French revolution, when it was off with their heads for the royal upper class. By 1855, with the great classification of growths in France, the idea of upholding wine quality returned, and associations dedicated to this concept were sanctioned by the French government.
The first chapter in the Americas was granted status in 1964, with a charter to promote American wines and wine-producing regions. The Monterey Chapter, which dates back to 1977, was the fourth established in the US, and began with a lunch meeting in 1976 at Simpson’s restaurant in Carmel. It wasn’t long after that Eric Wente became a member of the club that until recently also included Fred Dame.
Wente now joins the ranks of the distinguished Supreme Knights in the Monterey chapter, including, Al Scheid, Scott Scheid, Jack Galante, Ted Balestreri and Fred Dame.
He has certainly earned the title, having been out in the market, sniffing for changes in the wind and always ready to capitalize on them. “In a family owned business, to survive for 140 years means doing a lot of things right,” he says. “We have had ups and downs. Times and demographics are changing. Aging baby boomers are not long-term targets any longer. The question is, how do you target the millennials?”
While much of their business is international, national sales are the biggest portion of their business, and both were up in 2022, by 3 to 5%. Says Wente. “It’s still a Chard or Cab world, regardless of what people tell you. ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) might be interesting, but the market does not reflect this.”
Chardonnay is 50% of their portfolio, with 25% being Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% being everything else, including Pinot Noir from Monterey.
“We offer Chardonnay 5 ways,” says Wente. “Our Brut Sparkling is made from Chardonnay grown in Arroyo Seco. Then there’s Eric’s Chardonnay, which is all stainless and bottled fresh, almost Chablis-like. Livermore Valley Morning Fog is estate grown in Livermore, and is half barrel fermented in seasoned oak. Then we have Arroyo Seco Riva Ranch Chardonnay, which uses a bit of new oak (90% barrel fermented in new and second use French and American barrels). Finally, we have the Nth Degree Chardonnay, which is entirely barrel fermented with a significant amount of new oak. It is stirred on the lees to produce the richest of the styles.”
Morning Fog and Riva Ranch are about equal in volume and popularity. “This has kept steady over the years. Both have a good reception. But, what a difference a year makes! Sometimes people like Riva with age and then you get to the next vintage and it’s much fresher! That’s the way wine works.”
Being named Supreme Knight is one more validation of his tireless efforts to keep the world’s thirst for Chardonnay satiated. That said, Wente is firm in his decision to hand over the reins. “It’s time for me to move on and let the next generation take over. Hopefully we are set up to survive and move forward.”
Pass the torch, and the sword. But check the chalice first.
About the author
Laura Ness is a longtime wine journalist, columnist and judge who contributes regularly to Edible Monterey Bay, Spirited, WineOh.Tv, Los Gatos Magazine and Wine Industry Network, and a variety of consumer publications. Her passion is telling stories about the intriguing characters who inhabit the fascinating world of wine and food.
