Sojourn to Soledad: A Visit to Wrath

February 24, 2023 – Down at the spot where the Santa Lucia Highlands taper off into the plains of Arroyo Seco, lies a swatch of River Road that to me has always defined the essence of California as impacted by the Spanish explorers and missionaries. 

The Soledad Mission, with its quietly dignified frescoed chapel, rigorous dioramas of all the missions, the iconic bells and the rose bushes in front, has always been a destination for my husband and me. 

The vistas are vast and the wind violent. Seeing the last plunge of the Highlands as it meets the fertile soil of the agriculturally rich valley, watching the farm vehicles lumbering along the dusty roads, driven by men swaddled in hooded sweatshirts and bandanas against the wind, gives you a sense of the brute physicality of farming. 

Field workers bend to cut heads of iceberg lettuce, placing them carefully in boxes like treasures. Inevitably, a produce truck will lose a few heads over a clump of mud or a pothole, and the entire road becomes a life size pool table. I remember dodging these errant icebergs on my motorcycle on frequent pilgrimages here. 

River Road is such a beautiful ride when there’s nothing between you and all the aromas of the fertile fields, from the lemons at Kirk Williams ranch to ripening strawberries and a backdrop of cruciferous vegetables, not to mention the clumps of wild fennel along the road. It’s an olfactory cornucopia, usually accompanied by a wind stiff enough to push a small motorcycle (and rider) into the oncoming lane if you’re not careful. 

So, it was an unusual experience to visit Wrath on a balmy, clear and windless day, in early February, with a group of my Wild Wine Women posse. We sat outside by the pond and not a single reed was moving in the still, warm air, as the cattle across the street made their way, inquisitive as they are, from their beyond green hilltop perch, to get closer to the voices. They are even more curious than cats. 

Sabrine Rodems, winemaker at this place since the days of San Saba (2004), was ready for a performance as only she, with her years of experience as a theater stagehand, can execute. 

In dramatic fashion, she poured us her brand new 2020 Blanc de Blancs under the Scratch label, made from Clone 17 Chardonnay planted at the San Saba estate vineyard, along with 5 other clones of Chardonnay. 

“The Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay here are all on Cabernet rootstock,” Rodems explained. That seems to fit right along with the theatrical theme, as actors are always grafting themselves onto an idea of the character they are playing, and yet they still retain their own identity. This is amazing stuff that hits your palate like a hurricane: bracing, high acid, wild and possessed of an essence of grapefruit that Chardonnay can exhibit when picked really early. 

At 3.22pH and 7.9tA, it’s fresh as opening the door of a ski cabin and getting hit with a dump of snow off the roof. The intriguing label is done by a street artist in Thailand and it matches the provocative profile of the wine perfectly. Rodems makes the wine with the Bishop of Bubbles, Barry Jackson at Equinox (who likes to call himself The Fizz Wiz), which allows her the flexibility to disgorge just what she needs for her Scratch tasting room and accounts. She’s making around 1,500 cases under the Scratch label now, including a Bates Ranch Cabernet that she makes certain she has access to each year, despite its steadily growing popularity. 

Her key to maintaining this fruit source? “When I get the bills for my grapes, I make sure I pay Charlie Bates first.” 

Rodems also made a sparkling Brut for Wrath from the Kistler clone of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir clone 828, which was just released. This has a bit higher sugar content with 2 grams dosage (versus zero dosage in the Scratch Blanc de Blancs), giving it a more round and soft impression on the palate, where you’ll delight in the lively strawberry and orange notes that convey a taste of springtime. Yes, it’s coming. 

We then tried the Wrath 2022 still rosé, a saignée of 828 Pinot Noir, with a lavish bouquet of watermelon, cantaloupe, lavender and pink lemonade, utterly appealing and fresh at just 13.2% alcohol. The flavors are watermelon and blood orange creamsicle, and the texture is rich and creamy. An all day rosé if ever there was one. 

The 2021 Wrath EX Sauvignon Blanc done entirely in stainless steel oozes grapefruit and grass, and a tantalizing streak of jalapeño that had us speaking of street corn, tacos and chile rellenos and let’s face it, nachos would be a divine pairing as well. 

This lady does not mess around. “Did you get a little bit of cooked lemon on the finish?” Rodems asks. The acid is profound, and fitting under the EX label, which stands for Extreme. 

We were then joined in a surprise guest appearance by Kori Violini, whose label Kori, is made largely from fruit her step-dad Kirk Williams grows.  She also sources fruit from Mike Griva in Arroyo Seco. Richer in style, with lots of tropical fruit, her 2021 Kori Arroyo Seco Sauvignon Blanc, also made by Rodems, is bursting with guava, pineapple, lime and a sweet hint of lychee, making an overall expression that is perfect for an afternoon of sipping with friends, while someone else makes dinner. Visit her at the Kori Tasting Room in Carmel to taste through her current lineup, including  Pinot Noirs and Syrah, all made by Sabrine to Kori’s liking. After all, that’s the first rule of winemaking when you are crafting for your own label: make what you like to drink, as you might end up drinking most of it. 

That’s certainly the case in point with the 2019 Wrath Fermata Chardonnay, of which Rodems says, “I make Chardonnay the way people who don’t like Chardonnay like it.” This is really lovely stuff, with aromas of pear and peach almond tart, and a touch of crème brulee on the finish. No butter here: just a hint of richness.

Then it was on to reds, of which there are many, but I’ll highlight the 2019 Wrath 115/667 Monterey Pinot Noir that is an absolute bargain for $35, with its elegant black and red cherry fruit, along with cedar and graphite. “This is my go-to Friday night wine,” says Rodems.

I particularly gravitated towards the 2019 Wrath KW Ranch Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands, made from Kori’s step-dad Kirk’s vineyard, using clones 667 and Pommard, with 20% whole cluster. This wine grabs your full attention with its wonderful aromas and flavors of rich earth and mushroom with complex herbs, menthol, licorice and cedar. This is the wine for those wanting to discover something new with each sip. 

Each clone delivers something unique: and site certainly dictates to what degree that character is expressed. Pommard is known for its earthy richness and herbal tones, while 667 is usually given to darker, more intense fruitiness. But your mileage may vary.  “I have learned so much about clones working here!” says Rodems. “And also about barrels and other fermentation vessels. Michael gives us room to experiment and push the boundaries.” And the beauty of tasting at Wrath, whether at their winery site near the Soledad Mission or in the Plaza at Carmel, is that you can get a great snapshot of Rodem’s star talent in every glass. 

We also were treated to a taste of the 2017 Grenache Syrah from vines at the Alta Loma Vineyard in Monterey, which were sadly ripped out. Rodems says it was struggling, but they gave it one last go, to produce an intense and elegant, pine forest laden wine, accented by cedar and dried apple. A great pairing with anything featuring Pecorino cheese. 

One of the most memorable wines from this tasting, which included far more than those detailed here, was the 2022 Falanghina, which was just being bottled. We tasted from a bottle fresh off the line and it was probably the most thrilling white wine of the day, with fresh apricot, lemon grass, lemon pith and just a hint of coconut. It’s done, perfectly Rodems style, in a mix of dolio (clay amphora) and stainless, and it’s among the lowest pH wines I’ve ever had, at 2.4. It’s bone and fantastic, and would be dynamite with fresh rock cod or sole with a lemon and caper sauce – and a bit of wild fennel, perhaps. Or a loose head of lettuce with ultra lemony Caesar dressing.