Memorable New Tasting Menu at Coastal Kitchen

February 1, 2022 – The opening salvo of executive chef Michael Rotondo’s new tasting menu at Monterey Plaza Hotel’s flagship restaurant sounds basic: “honey nut squash.”

The instructions are to scoop and spread the butternut love on tasty little sourdough blinis, and it proves a rich and textured nibble—sweet, earthy, smokey and creamy all at once, with a hint of salt and spice. 

It seems straightforward enough, but isn’t exactly easy: Rotondo and his team steam the squash for 10 minutes to release moisture, slow roast it to bring out the natural sweetness, then add whipped koji-infused mascarpone, Aleppo spice and toasted pumpkin seeds.  

On my menu I scribbled one word next to it: “revelation.”

It was the first indication Rotondo has a gift for taking something familiar and giving it new dimensions, which can and should be a goal of any chef into the gig: engage both curiosity and appetite, brain and belly, thought and plot. 

Evidence of Rotondo’s knack for that accumulates as the meal continues. 

A tender diver scallop finds a surprising spike of horseradish that electrifies a base sauce of buttermilk, almond and kale. 

Wood-fired black cod takes on new identity with a cauliflower dashi broth and tempura-fried shiitake mushrooms that should appear on each forkful to achieve maximum effect. 

A similar thing happens with the Wagyu loin. It’s good on its own, but better when all the other elements in the dish—a savory onion soubise, charred cabbage and crispy forbidden rice—make it into each bite.

The truffle tortellini doesn’t sound as theatrical as the other courses but it might’ve been my favorite dish of the night, with an assist from crazy-soft brioche buns. 

Along the way wine pairings from sommeliers Danny Reyes and Conrad Reddick pop out subtleties that wouldn’t be detected otherwise.

The fact that it all happens with the Pacific floating directly to the left heightens everything.

“We are trying to extend the elevated dining experience in Monterey,” says managing director Chris Sommers. “The hardest part is explaining to many local diners that letting a chef create tasting menus is the highest form of culinary arts and experience. Chef Michael is top talent nationally—being a Bocuse d’Or most promising chef recipient—he can bring our Monterey culinary scene to another level.”

After our meal, I circled back to ask Rotondo more about his craft. Here’s what the former exec chef at Ritz Carlton San Francisco had to say. 

What might surprise people about your approach to food?

I’m less concerned about surprises, but I enjoy the nuances of flavors and textures that can impart in a dish. Highlighting and foraging local and seasonal ingredients at their height of flavor and ripeness will assist in that pursuit.

What are some of your favorite atypical ingredients—or techniques—to deploy?

I think most atypical ingredients 10 years ago would sound more mainstream in today’s world of food and wine. Some have been around for thousands of years and are now gaining popularity but remain the truest forms of cooking—cooking with live fire, preserving and fermenting to name a few. They all play a role in my cooking. 

How do the different pieces of your experience inform the way you work with local produce and proteins?

Some of the best and tastiest dishes that I’ve had in my career are from humble restaurants that use clean and pure products. As a chef, you strive to utilize the entire ingredient. A form of “nose to tail” but also in vegetable cookery where waste is limited and flavors are pronounced.

What inspires you about this project?

I have a natural affinity for the beauty and history of the Monterey Peninsula and the surrounding areas. Creating an upscale dining experience with the waves crashing below your feet while you dine and looking out into the pristine waters of Monterey Bay. What is more inspiring than that?

Speed round, short answers welcome: Favorite kitchen tool?

Microplane.

Weirdest food fetish?

I’m around food all day. A food fetish isn’t a thing. But I do have a thing for carrots after a long braise.

Top non-food-industry hero?

The men and women in uniform that help to defend our amazing country get my vote.

Favorite food podcast, TV program or movie?

[1996’s] Big Night. Such a classic.

#1 food rule/cliché you enjoy breaking? 

A little ketchup and Sriracha on my eggs in the morning. Grape nuts with my cheerios in the morning. Yes, I’m a cereal mixer.

What question do you wish I asked? (And what would be your answer?)

What’s your great obstacle right now during the pandemic? We have an amazing team at the Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa and our number one goal is to keep our guests safe. As we open new and exciting venues, finding the best and brightest team members is paramount. 

More at the Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa website.