January 25, 2022 – This story could be sufficiently summed up with two magic words: abalone tacos.
That would be enough to understand the latest iteration of Pescadero Carmel, the contemporary Baja California-inspired restaurant that was originally tapas destination Mundaka.
New chef Greg Delgadillo is now directing the kitchen. His comfort with beer-battered fish, moles and salsas—combined with a feel for thoughtful flourishes like persimmon vinaigrette on the winter greens or fried jalapeños and fresh blue corn tortillas with the marinated carne asada—make for a fun and lively menu.
Edible readers might recall Delgadillo from the creative pop-ups at Captain + Stoker in Monterey. He’s also spent time at award-winning spots like Michelin starred In de Wulf in Belgium and Saison in San Francisco.
Things like his 14-hour-braised beef sopes, scallop aguachile ceviche, and seared halibut with green mole, artichoke brown butter and braised lettuce also pop off the page.
But nothing speaks to Pescadero’s playful and flavorful soul any better than the abalone tacos and their tender slices of abalone steak, contrasting texture of fried artichoke and zingy tomatillo-nori salsa.
Like the wider menu, the abalone tacos are super fresh, accessible, but also uniquely their own thing. Much like the ambiance, no place around these parts conjures anything like it.
We also sampled some ahi and yellowtail sashimi that gets a lift from an intuitive seasoning blend of ginger, serrano pepper, house-fermented koji soy and sake.
From there we dove into some delicious braised duck leg confit and its accompanying almond mole and pickled radish straws.
The flavors dovetailed cooperatively with a house margarita from Pescadero/Barmel stalwart Eusebio “Eusi” Trinidad, one of several staffers whose longevity speaks to an admirable amount of retention, and a splash of Neta mezcal espadín from a tidy and curated collection of agave spirits. (I see you Cesar Bautista.)
Perhaps the most assuring element of our visit was abstract, the joy of owner-operator Gabe Georis. A serial Baja visitor, he’s almost gleeful about nudging his brainchild closer and closer to the original—and ultimate—goal.
“No more trying to please everyone with enchiladas,” he says with a smile. “We’re going full Baja, doing what we meant to do when we first set out, making the food I go down there to eat, and now have the staff to pull off.”
Hours are 11:30am-8pm Tuesday-Thursday and until 9pm Friday and Saturday. Closed Monday and Sunday. More at Pescadero’s Instagram page.
About the author
Mark C. Anderson, EMB's managing editor and "Found Treasures" columnist, welcomes responsible and irresponsible feedback. Correspond via mark@ediblemontereybay.com.
