Pomegranates
The “seeded apple” takes root in the Monterey Bay region
By Jamie Collins
Photography by Rob Fisher and Patrick Tregenza
I grew up in southern California with a backyard pomegranate tree that produced amazingly sweet fruit, larger than softballs. Every year pomegranates would weigh the branches all the way down to the ground, where they would split open and stain the patio. During the fall, when it was still warm, we would float in the pool and pick low-hanging, split pomegranates and enjoy them as a refreshing, messy snack that was best eaten in the water where we could wash off the sticky red juice.
Later, when I was away at college, I got inspired by my viticulture class to utilize the abundance of the family tree rather than see it wasted on the ground. Two classmates and I processed a couple of hundred pounds of fruit that year. With stained hands we peeled back the pith and squeezed until we each had a big bucket of juice. We strained the seeds and transferred the juice to glass carboys and added fermentation locks. The juice was set aside and the fermentation process began. Next we bottled the bright red liquid into recycled wine bottles and corked them for holiday gifts. I brought my bottles of wine to the home with the pomegranate tree, where my family gathers to celebrate the holidays. Our tradition is to exchange gifts at midnight, but minutes before my gifts of pomegranate wine were distributed, two bottles exploded like bombs, surprising the whole family and ruining the carpet. This failed pomegranate experiment wouldn’t be my last.
History and Folklore
The pomegranate, or “Punica granatum,” originated in Iran and still grows there in the wild, germinating from seeds distributed by birds that eat the fruit and excrete the seeds. The first records of cultivated
pomegranates were in the Mediterranean, where they are still most popular. Spanish sailors brought the pomegranate from the Mediterranean to America, motivated by the long shelf life and the high vitamin C content that kept away scurvy on the long journey. In time, the fruit became established in various parts of the United States, with most of the commercial U.S. production ending up a few hours to our east, in California’s Tulare, Kern and King counties, where the interior valleys reach scorching hot temperatures in summer.
The name pomegranate (“pomme garnete”) literally translates to “seeded apple” and
it is believed that it was a pomegranate, rather than an apple, that tempted Eve in the Garden of Eden. And how could she resist? There is something so sensual about the glistening red seeds (arils, technically) of a pomegranate. It turns out that pomegranates are a symbol of fer- tility, abundance, prosperity and eternal life in almost every culture.
In Turkey, it is a tradition that after saying her marriage vows, the bride smashes a pomegranate on the ground. The number of seeds that fall out are said to be the number of children she will have. In China, gifts of paintings of ripe, open pomegranates are given as wedding gifts with the meaning, “May you have as many children as there are seeds.” Ancient Egyptians were buried with pomegranate fruits in the hope of rebirth.
In Greek mythology, the irresistible pomegranate is credited with prompting the creation of the change of seasons. Persephone, daughter of Demeter and Zeus, the story goes, was abducted by Hades, god of the underworld. Demeter, the goddess of the harvest, was devastated by her daughter’s disappearance, and in her grief, caused the earth to become infertile. Eventually, Hades released
Persephone, and the earth again bore fruit. But because Hades had tricked Persephone into eating pomegranate seeds, a food of the underworld, she was forced to return to Hades each year. Winter was created when, during Persephone’s absence each year, Demeter’s grief would cause the earth to go fallow.
Nutrition and Health Benefits
Fruits with red and purple pigment are high in anthocyanins, and pomegranates additionally contain ellagitannins—antioxidants that prevent and remove free radicals in the body that can cause damage to cells, leading to cancer and heart disease.
Both the fresh juice and the jewel-toned seeds contain potassium and vitamin C, but you need to eat the seeds to get the benefits of fiber and punicic acid, a polyunsaturated oil that is good for raising healthy cholesterol levels, or HDLs.
Studies show pomegranates relieve symptoms of rheumatoid arthritis and autoimmune diseases, and prostate issues are also said to be helped with drinking the healthy juice.
Growing pomegranates
Pomegranate trees are beautiful, drought resistant and can handle extreme heat and cold. In spring they become covered with bright or- angey–red flowers, which in autumn yield fruit ranging in size from 3–10 inches in diameter.
Pomegranate trees will thrive in the Monterey Bay area but are generally not grown here commercially because coastal land is prized for cool season row crops and pomegranates are most productive in climates with intensely hot summers.
Sierra Azul Nursery in Watsonville carries the Wonderful variety, which is best suited to hotter areas, and Eversweet and Ambrosia, which produce well in cooler, coastal temperatures like we have around many parts of our area. Other Santa Cruz area nurseries that stock pomegranate trees include The Garden Co., Hidden Gardens, Mountain Feed and Farm Supply and ProBuild. They can also be found at Valley Hills Nursery in Carmel Valley, Bokay Nursery in Salinas, and M&M Plant Sales in Hollister.
The trees grow to about 40 feet tall and bear fruit after roughly five years. They don’t need much in the way of pruning and since pests are not an issue for them, they are easily managed organically.
Where to buy fresh pomegranates
As noted above, most commercial production of pomegranates happens in the Central Valley. Still, we are lucky to live next to it, because its close proximity makes it pretty easy to find pomegranates at our farmers’ markets, and generally they will have traveled fewer than 200 miles to get here.
For instance, F&J Minazzoli Farms of Stockton brings their pomegranates to all four Monterey Bay Certified Farmers’ Markets and Rancho Padre Farm of Exeter will have them at the MBCFM Aptos and MPC markets. Lone Oak Ranch out of Reedley, and Twin Girls Farm out of Yettem, can be found at the Santa Cruz Community Farmers’ Markets, and Inzana Ranch out of Hughson can be found at the Pacific Grove Certified Farmers’ Market and the Alvarado Street farmers’ market in Monterey.
And if things go well for the Everett Family Farm of Soquel and a 24-tree pomegranate orchard they planted in recent years, pome- granates could appear this fall at their farm stand on Old San Jose Road and at their stall at the Westside Saturday farmers’ market in Santa Cruz.
“We have not had such a huge crop that we have been able to sell them until last year, and then we made the mistake of waiting until the first rain and as soon as it rains, they crack,” says Laura Everett, but she’s encouraged by how the trees have come along. “Everyone looked at them and said, ‘Oh, they’ll never do well here!’ but actually they’ve done okay. It’s crazy.”
Choosing and making the most of your pomegranates
The fruit should be heavy and round, without sunken areas or splits, which can harbor mold. Once picked, pomegranates will dry out rather than continue to ripen, so be sure that the fruit wasn’t har- vested prematurely. Look for large-sized fruit and bright red skin.
Pomegranates can be stored for about a month in a cool pantry or up to three months in a refrigerator.
To remove the seeds with a minimum of splatter, start by mak- ing a shallow, round cut around the stem at the top of the pome- granate. Once the top is removed, use a knife to score the skin into wedges running from stem to base. Pull apart the sections and re- move the large pieces of pith. Place the sections of seeds in a bowl of cold water and use your hands to separate the seeds from the skin and pith. The seeds will sink to the bottom of the bowl and the pith will float. The seeds can be frozen for use in smoothies. Fresh juice should be used within a week or frozen. The seeds and juice will last in the freezer for up to a year.
Pomegranates, a staple of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cooking, add crunch, beauty and vibrant flavor to all sorts of dishes. Here are some ideas for adding more pomegranates to your life!
1. Make infused water with the seeds, adding mint or lemon verbena leaves.
2. Add the seeds to salads and yogurt for a nice crunch.
3. Blend juice with oil, sugar and white wine vinegar and use to baste chicken and pork or dress a salad.
4. Add the juice to champagne, vodka, Meyer lemon juice and seltzer for a delicious drink.
5. Preserve them in pomegranate molasses or pomegranate jelly.
Jamie Collins of Serendipity Farms has been growing organic row crops at the mouth of Carmel Valley for 12 years. She distributes her produce through a CSA, u-picks and farmers’ markets.
Additional reporting contributed by Zoe Gregozek.
RECIPE: See p. 22 for a recipe for Anar Chicken from Santa Cruz’s Laili Restaurant or click HERE
FOODS IN SEASON: For a list of produce and fish in season now, see our LOCAL FOOD GUIDES
About the author
At Edible Monterey Bay, our mission is to celebrate the local food culture of Santa Cruz, San Benito and Monterey Counties, season by season. We believe in sustainability, and we believe everyone has a right to healthful, clean and affordable food. We think knowing where our food comes from is powerful, and we hope our magazine, website and newsletters inspire readers to get to know and support our local growers, fishers, chefs, vintners and food artisans.
