Local Wines to be Thankful For

November 19, 2021 – Getting recommendations from wine shop owners, restaurant chefs and wine bar somms is always fun, as they come up with things that most mortals might not encounter. And asking winemakers what they like from their own stash brings in a fun perspective, too. 

Here are three of my suggestions to make this year’s Thanksgiving feast memorable and a bit different. Start with bubbles—pet nat is particularly in vogue—then move to Gruner Veltliner (or Riesling) and then to Zinfandel. Zin is the red you want to tackle the cornucopia of flavors typical of a groaning table. Sure, we love Pinot Noir, and it will always be a top choice for roasted fowl, but not everybody loves Pinot, so Zin is that perfect compromise. Plus you often have richer fare, like smoked turkeys and hams, mushroom-based dishes, and even lasagna. Zin is a best friend to all of these. Locally, there’s not a lot available, but Beauregard has an old vine Zin blend called Lost Weekend, Bottlejack has two gorgeous vintages of Zin from the Santa Cruz Mountains, and Storrs has both their Central Coast and Rusty Ridge Zinfandels, fruity and ready for a party. 

Enough of my two cents. Here are some perspectives from the cellar and behind the tasting bar. 

Alyssa Twelker from Mentone restaurant in Aptos told us: “I really like the Nouveau bottling from Birichino. I just tried the 2021 the other day and it is delicious!! I believe this year it is 100% Carignan. Their Malvasia Pet Nat is always a favorite to get a party started. For something more traditional, I’m loving the Trail Marker Saveria Vineyard Pinot Noir.  It just has this beautiful juicy strawberry/red fruit, and warm spiciness that I think would be beautiful with a Thanksgiving meal.” 

Denis Hoey of Odonata told us that with Thanksgiving turkey or ham, he’d recommend his 2020 estate Viognier, redolent of peachy stone fruit. “Sad thing is there are only 3 cases left!!” He recommends his 2018 Grenache rouge bubbles before, during and after the meal. There’s still time to join his Bubbles Club. “With heavier gravy and dark meat, our Malbec under the 2019 Cote du Denis label, would be fire!! And the 2019 Hook Vineyard Syrah, which is lower alcohol and elegant, pairs superbly!” We love his contagious enthusiasm, evident in every bottle he produces.

Richard Alfaro says they’ll be enjoying their 2020 “La Playita Vineyard” Estate Gruner Veltliner, which he describes as high acid and racy, their 2020 Alfaro Family Vineyards Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir and probably a few of their favorite Pinots. 

Megan Bell of Margins wines says she goes for wines that are fairly light and high in acidity, typically skin fermented whites and light reds. She recommends her Santa Clara Valley Counoise or Mourvedre: light, chillable reds that are super food-friendly and versatile. For whites, she says, “Skin fermented Clarksburg Chenin Blanc: white wine with a tad more tannin from the skin fermentation that can really stand up to the meal.”

Garrett Bowlus of Albatross Ridge says he’s got just the Pinot Noir for duck and mushroom lovers. “Our 2019 Cuvée Owen Pinot Noir is drinking well right now,” he tells us. “It’s 100% Pommard and pairs excellent with roasted duck and mushroom stuffing which we had recently.”

Liz Jacobs of Wild Fish restaurant in Pacific Grove has a stunning seafood and vegetarian based menu for this holiday, including two star dishes, the smoked Maitake mushroom soup and black cod with brown butter and crispy sage leaves, served with white and golden Chanterelles, Brussel sprouts and Kabocha purée. As a pairing, she highly recommends Ian Brand’s Pinot Gris from Eden Rift Vineyard in San Benito County, or the Yorkville Cellars Semillon from Yorkville Highlands, which is on the way to Boonville on Highway 128.

Alexis Carr from Soif restaurant and wine bar says, “I highly recommend Birichino’s 2016 Jurassic Park Champagne Method Chenin Blanc to start. Personally, I believe one should always start any dinner with bubbles!” We won’t argue with that. She goes on to recommend Marty Mathis of Kathryn Kennedy’s M. Mathis 2019 Gruner Veltliner as the perfect paring for all of your green bean and Brussels sprouts needs. We recently had the 2020 Gruner Veltliner, which Mathis sources from Richard Alfaro, and it is definitely built to age.  

Carr continues, “For the turkey, I would go with the 2019 Madson Toyon Pinot Noir from the Santa Cruz Mountains and the Ian Brand 2017 Bates Ranch Cabernet Franc.” Her choice for spicier and heartier dishes is the 2020 Samuel Louis Smith Coastview Vineyard Syrah. 

Ryan Beauregard says that his hands down favorite wine for Thanksgiving is his 2018 Oeuf en Baton Chardonnay, done in concrete egg. “While most folks will steer towards light bodied red wines, my direction will be acidic and aromatic Chardonnay. The reason is that a higher acid white wine compliments the richer foods that we will indulge upon. Cheese plates through the traditional dinner to pumpkin pie, this wine is a super star. It is the best starter wine, and the best finisher. Plus, everyone just loves Chardonnay.” He just sold out of all his magnums of it.

Further to pile on the Chardonnay bandwagon, Scott Caraccioli says he’d like to recommend the brilliant 2018 Escolle Chardonnay, which, along with the 2018 Pinot Noir, just gets better by the hour. He’s just about sold out of everything else. There’s been a huge run on bubbles this year. 

Dawn Galante of Dawn’s Dream told us, “I’m loving our 2018 Alyssa Pinot Noir for Thanksgiving this year.  This wine has really settled in the bottle and is showing exceptionally well.  With notes of ripe berry and pomegranate with light toasty oak giving it a soft finish.”

Scheid Family Wines recommends a foursome of bottles for Thanksgiving, including their 2019 Grüner Veltliner with loads of citrus, green apple, pear and tropical fruit, which they suggest pairing with oven-roasted Brussels sprouts and honey toasted almonds or a Thanksgiving classic such as a creamy green bean and mushroom casserole. Their 2018 Pinot Noir is meant to be paired with simply spiced dishes and cream-based sides like creamy mashed potatoes or sweet potato casserole. The 2019 Pinot Blanc is the fruity white you want to sip on while the turkey is roasting. Pair with baked brie and apricot jam wrapped in puff pastry. Put the 2018 Odd Lot Red up against anything, including a rich stuffing or smoked turkey or duck. 

Mike Kohne and Maura Cooper of the yet to open CRAVE Wine Bar in Hollister, shared their local San Benito County recommendations, which include Calera’s 2017 Mt. Harlan Ryan Vineyard Pinot Noir and the Ardoit (by Seabold Cellars) 2019 Silleto Vineyard Gamay. They also love the
Precident 2019 “Massa Vineyard” Chenin Blanc from Carmel Valley and
the Birichino 2019 Besson Vineyard Old Vines Grenache, from Gilroy. Another favorite is the Navarro Vineyards 2018 Old Vine Zinfandel, Mendocino.

Jess LoPrete of Bad Animal bookshop and natural wine bar in Santa Cruz recommends Margins Carmel Valley Chenin Blanc. “Margins is the project of our friend Megan Bell, whose winery is in Corralitos,” she says. “Her Carmel Valley Chenin is a great Thanksgiving pairing, as its lively acidity is a good match for all the delicious richness on the table.” LoPrete also likes Donkey & Goat New Clou, a blend of Syrah, Merlot and Vermentino made in the style of a Beaujolais Nouveau “It’s juicy, zippy, fresh, and incredibly drinkable. This is everything I want from a Thanksgiving wine! I’d recommend serving it chilled,” she says.

Folktale’s David Baird reminds us of the perfection that is low alcohol Pinot Noir and cool climate Zin. “For me this year, the event will be a little less traditional and focus on primarily vegetarian fare. One dish I’ll be making is Cauliflower Puttanesca, and pairing it with the Folktale Albarino, a super light and refreshing acid driven wine that works beautifully with salty dishes like this. Can’t wait!”

Ryan Stirm of Stirm Wines agrees with Baird – Zin for the win!  “As far as Thanksgiving wines, I think the ultimate variety is Zinfandel. It kinda goes with all of that classic, decadent ‘merican fare; and is proudly doing better in its adopted homeland giving it that ‘good story’ edge over everything else. I also think off-dry Riesling (we’ve only made a handful of cases ever) works great also, as does Gamay and Pinot, and obviously Chardonnay needs to have a presence to satisfy the masses. But Zinfandel is the champion in my book for both Thanksgiving and Christmas.” 

He also gives a nod to Cabernet Pfeffer as a solid Thanksgiving pairing. Which leads me to Ser, and a nod to Nicole Walsh’s awesome take on this grape. ”I currently have a Thanksgiving 3-pack that includes the 2018 Sparkling Riesling, 2019 Vermentino and the 2019 Cinsault. I debated about the red as I think Pinot Noir and Cabernet Pfeffer also would pair really well with Fall feasts.” There’s also a mix & match 3- pack for 20% off so people can make their own choices. “The 2019 Cinsaut is a very floral, perfumed wine with red fruits on the nose and palate.  It is very light, but pairs really well with poultry. The PInot Noir pairs well with squash and mushroom based dishes. The Cabernet Pfeffer has beautiful pomegranate and cranberry character that pair really well with Fall cuisine.  So, I guess I have a lot of favorites:)!”

Speaking of favorites, Jess Trask from Village Wine & Tap Room, wasted no time recommending her personal picks, many of which are exclusively available from her shop in Carmel Valley.

One of her limited selections is the 2014 Larkspur Malbec (made by Aaron Hoops). “This will pair beautifully with traditional turkey, glazed ham, even prime rib and for us veg heads, portobello mushrooms and root veggies,” she says. Trask also loves Samuel Louis Smith’s (head winemaker for Morgan) 2017 and 2018 Pinot Noir (rich fruit) and Syrah (elegant and velvety mouth feel), which she says are easy to sip on their own, but pair great with food, taking the wines to a whole new level. 

Trask is also keen on Ryan Kobza, (assistant wine maker to Ian Brand), for his light easy to drink wines that can handle pairing with cheeses, fowl, bruschetta and even desserts. “Try his Mourtaou (Cabernet Pfeffer) as a rosé and red. It is a unique one of a kind wine that’s sure to create conversation when introduced to your friends.” 

Miguel Lepe, Assistant Winemaker at Wrath, just opened his Lepe tasting room in Carmel by the Sea on Dolores in the Winfield art gallery. He also makes Trask’s house wines, which are organic, vegan, environmentally sustainable and all around balanced easy family dinner wines, plus she has some of his “last chance” wines.

Kristen Barnhisel, Winemaker, White Wine, for J. Lohr, recommends some of her wines suggested food pairings. 2020 J. Lohr F&G Vineyard Pinot Blanc with flavors of ripe apple, ripe pear, and rich texture that would pair beautifully with an apple walnut salad or as an appetizer with pears and Taleggio cheese and 2019 J. Lohr Arroyo Vista Chardonnay with flavors of baked apple, crème brulee, brioche, and rich texture to complement the rich flavors of roasted turkey and mashed potatoes. 

Greg Freeman, winemaker for Chalone and bagpiper to the stars on Carmel Beach, loves this holiday and has some delicious pairings planned. He shared these thoughts. “At Thanksgiving, I love to drink Syrah, as it tends to go with pretty much anything that anyone brings over. I prefer cool climate Syrahs like Santa Barbara area or even SLH. I have one bottle left of Roar Syrah that is insanely good. The Chalone Syrah is like that, dark and satisfying, fragrant and luxurious. Vivacious vibrancy and velveteen tannins.

But of course, Pinot Noir is the best with the actual turkey feast. Chalone Reserve Pinot Noir is what I’ll be drinking. My mom prefers Chardonnay, so she will expect that, but instead, I’ll have 2020 Pinot Blanc from Chalone, which is aromatic, viscous, and delicious.”

Thanks to all who shared their personal recommendations. I hope they provide some thought and inspiration as you get ready for the holiday. 

Whatever wines you choose to enjoy with your feast this year, make sure to toast all those who toil daily in the fields to grow and process our food, and to grow and make our wine. We enjoy a standard of living that is only made possible by their incredibly difficult and backbreaking work. We are blessed, indeed, and should never forget that sharing the wealth works both ways. 

Savvy Sips For Thanksgiving

Craving something crisp and clean while you brine, bake, season and stuff? Here are three refreshing palate cleansers, especially the M. Mathis Grüner, which is grown by Richard Alfaro. 

2020 Hammerling Sparkling Chenin Blanc, Massa Vineyard, Carmel Valley – 

Thanks to Alexis Carr at Soif, I got to taste this fascinating take on Chenin Blanc from the Massa Estate in Cachagua, which was formerly known as Heller Estate. You might remember their Chenin Blanc as being rich, like spun honey and cream cheese, with a wee bit of melted wax. This sparkler made by a producer in Berkeley, carries a hint of that honey, but it’s ever so faint. Aromas of jasmine, apple fritter, and incense ash are intriguing, as are the flavors of guava, quince paste, and lime saltwater taffy. The bubbles are lovely, lively and properly intense. Thumbs up!

Soif carries a number of the Hammerling wines, many of which are from local vineyards, including Cab Franc, Sparkling Pinot, Pinot Noir, Cab Pfeffer and Sparkling Zinfandel, along with this Chenin, which retails for $29. Go check them out!

2018 Sandar & Hem Chardonnay, Bald Mountain, Santa Cruz Mountains – This is a day at the ocean in Davenport, complete with visions of the famed shark fin rock formation, bottled and sealed for your immediate pleasure. Seashells, fresh briny oysters, wild fennel, chrysanthemums, lemon curd, the salt and lime encrusted rim of a margarita glass, a refreshing saline minerality, a splash of coconut, a hint of pine resin and a texture of corduroy, this wine creates a scene as intricate as a window box. Welcome to Rob Bergstrom’s take on the Bald Mountain fruit, which always shines through with its heart of salty oceanside, served up with a hint of white peach. It is so distinctly Bald Mountain, it could come from nowhere else on earth. That, my friend, is terroir, showing up like a unique thumbprint. Cantine Wine Pub carries some Sandar & Hem wines, or order from the website: BaldMtnSH

2020 M. Mathis Grüner Veltliner, Alfaro Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains –  Marty Mathis is usually more associated with Saratoga hillside Cabernet Sauvignon or his Lake County Sauvignon Blanc, but lately he’s been venturing into distinctively different whites. While it was much hailed by somms about 15 years ago as the next big thing, Grüner Veltliner hasn’t made much of dent in the unassailable moat of Chardonnay that surrounds the wine drinking world. It’s hard to pin down this grape, which is known in Austria for its white pepper spice and subtle aromas of pea shoots and spring grass. Although quaffable in its youth, Grüner can age wonderfully. This particular example has all the hallmarks of something built to last, with its super low alcohol and high acid profile. Right now, with its subtle white alpine flower, white pepper and sweet lime aromatics, it’s the white wine we love most with steamed asparagus and lemon crème fraiche and artichoke soup. Dare we mention ”The Half,” Duarte’s famed artichoke and chile soup? There’s a wine for everything.  2020MMathisGruner