August 13, 2013 – Capitola’s landmark Shadowbrook Restaurant has a brand new executive chef and he’s shaking things up with new dishes, improved classics and more seasonal, local produce.
Anthony Kresge—who’s originally from St. Helena but has lived in Santa Cruz off and on since the 90s—was appointed last week to lead the 21-person kitchen staff, that includes Sous Chef Roger Gowan and Pastry Chef Robyn Wood.
“After 25 years in food and wine it feels great to be able to work at this level in my home town and be surrounded by such professionals,” said the 44-year-old chef.
Just a few months ago Kresge was running the little Davenport Deli, enjoying surfing and playing golf in his spare time, when he approached Shadowbrook for part time work as a sommelier. But after seeing his resume—which includes Culinary School at Napa Valley College, apprenticeships at famed restaurants like Mustards Grill in Yountville and a Masters Certificate in Pastry and Culinary Arts from Italy—he was shown the kitchen.
“I want to put Shadowbrook back on the map as the kind of food destination that people would experience in the wine country, or in San Francisco or Pebble Beach,” he said. Over the past couple of months, Kresge has added 13 new dishes to the menu that reflect his Italian training, like Pan Seared Duck L’apricot with a dried apricot and liqueur reduction, duck prosciutto and risotto arancini—which he says look like little golden apricots. 
Another new dish is the Chicken Confit Salad made with crispy wonton “cannolis” stuffed with garden greens and dressed with Humbolt Fog cheese, Crimson Orange lentils, house made plum jam, pluots and cilantro oil.
While surf and turf is still on the menu, Kresge is taking pains to upgrade some of the classics. For example, the popular Filet Mignon Brochettes are now served with Black Truffle Gnocchi and velvety Goat Cheese Béchamel.
The new Executive Chef worked as a promoter of Santa Cruz Mountain wines for eight years in the 1990s, representing labels such as Roudon Smith, Hunter Hill and Burrell School—where he helped launch their Dinner in the Vineyard series. So he plans to put his knowledge to use organizing wine dinners starting this fall at Shadowbrook. But they won’t be ordinary wine dinners, his idea is to bring together several winemakers at a single event to showcase some of their lesser-known creations and pair them with his wine-friendly cuisine.
Sourcing local produce is another of his top priorities and Kresge has begun working with Pat DeYoung of Farmer Pat’s Labor of Love in Salinas (see EMB Spring 2013), who is dedicating part of his acreage to growing just for Shadowbrook. “Pat and I worked together to design part of his farm and we talk about what he’ll plant for us every week,” the chef said. Right now Farmer Pat is putting in things like rainbow carrots, specialty kales, leeks and beets. “I go out there frequently and plan menus around what’s coming out of the soil,” he added.
The chef enjoys a large rooftop garden on the restaurant grounds, which grows herbs, 10 varieties of chiles, squash and heirloom greens. In October he plans a special Garden-to-Plate dinner on the patio, where every dish on the multi-course menu will showcase one ingredient snipped fresh from that garden.
Kresge also worked several years as a corporate chef with the Epicurean Group in Silicon Valley, running dining rooms at universities and high-tech companies. It’s an experience that taught him to respect personal food choices, which is one reason Shadowbrook has added new vegan, gluten-free, and vegetarian entrees such as Farmer Pat’s Organic Vegetable Napoleon, made with tomato ragout, smoked fennel béchamel, crisp eggplant, and ‘rooftop’ garden greens.
“I want every foodie, vegetarian or not, to be able to come to Shadowbrook and be able to present them with dishes on a five-star level,” he said.
With its hillside gardens and funicular, Shadowbrook has built a reputation as a romantic, special occasion restaurant ever since opening 66 years ago. Kresge is enthusiastic about making sure the food measures up to the quality of the beautiful creekside setting. “I was born to do this,” he says.
Shadowbrook Restaurant – 1750 Wharf Rd. Capitola – 831.475.1511
About the author
Deborah Luhrman is publisher and editor of Edible Monterey Bay. A lifelong journalist, she has reported from around the globe, but now prefers covering our flourishing local food scene and growing her own vegetables in the Santa Cruz Mountains.
