November 13, 2018 – After 31 years in business, Cindy and Paul Geise—owners of beloved Ristorante Avanti in Santa Cruz—have sold the restaurant to chef Jonathan Glass. The sale was set in motion about two months ago and closed last week, surprising legions of long-time customers.
“I’ve spent more than half my life behind bars here,” jokes Paul. “You’ve gotta retire at some point, that’s basically it. ”
Indeed. “A whole lifetime of service,” he reflects. And while they are ready to let go, it is still hard to imagine what will come next. For the Geises and also for the public. “Most people don’t realize how emotional this is, not just for me, but for my customers. I mean people have been coming here for a long time. All those dinners and lunches you have with your parents and family have more meaning than just stopping somewhere to get something to eat.” And for his staff as well. “I’ve actually had two sets of employees that met here and now are married with children,” says Paul.
That is certainly true for this writer, who got engaged at the original Palm Center location of Avanti and remembers long, leisurely Italian breakfasts there in the late 90’s and early 2000s. It has been that kind of place for us, from special occasion memory meals to weekday bites.
Those are some big shoes to fill. And Glass intends to retain that legacy and that welcoming neighborhood environment. “When I walk in the door it feels great, I feel very at home there,” he says. “I look forward to carrying on the tradition that Paul and Cindy started.”
Glass, who has been working as a chef in the Santa Cruz area for the past 20 years, has been looking to have his own restaurant for a long time. “I’ve been keeping my eye on the restaurant scene for many years and I saw it advertised on a businesses-for-sale website, and as I investigated more it was more exciting. I feel really certain this is a good opportunity for me,” he says.
For Geise, who’s strong commitment to using local products and seasonal produce, even before “farm-to-table” was a household word, made it clear from the get-go that his network of vendors should stay intact. “Keep all the same suppliers…that’s the main thing for me,” he says.
And Glass agrees, “There’s a treasure trove of experience and quality product there, so I’m definitely looking forward to carrying on with that.” And the staff, many of whom have worked there for over a decade, will remain as well. “They have competent and caring staff there that I’m very excited to work with. My goal is to get to know them and get to know the customers and any changes will happen in baby steps,” assures Glass.
The only immediate changes that we might notice could be the addition of a few more appetizers and some draft beer. But other than that, we should expect to find pretty much the same Avanti we know and love. “Over time, the plan is to keep the same type of ambiance and same type of menus. It may lose some of its Italian accents a little bit. But I really want to get to know what’s there and keep the best from that,” says Glass. “I’ll be putting my own stamp on it over time. But I actually feel I have a great chance to learn from their years of experience and take what I can from it and keep things rolling forward.”
“It’s the end of a chapter,” says Geise. And at the end of that 30-plus year chapter, he has a lot to look back on. “You go into the restaurant business thinking it’s all about food and wine, and then you leave and you realize it’s all about relationships.”
The ownership change is expected to occur mid-December, so plan to get in there to either say “goodbye” or to say “hello” as the next chapter begins.
About the author
Amber Turpin is a freelance food and travel writer based in the Santa Cruz Mountains.
