
4
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6
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FOOD PHILOSOPHY
A chef and former school food services director, a food writer and a cooking instructor illuminate their work.
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8
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16
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Alliums
In spring, a kitchen workhorse gets its 15 minutes of fame.
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21
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SPRING FARMERS’ MARKETS
A complete listing for the Monterey Bay Area.
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25
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IN DEFENSE OF BIG ORGANIC
Myra Goodman makes her case.
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30
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LA BALENA
Farm-to-table is no mere marketing term here.
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35
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MOUNTAIN MAN
Jeff Emery juggles wine, brandy and song
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38
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A SNAIL’S TALE
Stalking the original slow food in a California garden
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42
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THE HAUTE ENCHILADA
Moss Landing’s fast-beating artistic and social heart
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46
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ALMONDS
California’s most valuable crop thrives right next door
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53
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YOUR CUPBOARDS ARE FULL.. NOW WHAT?
Cooking slow food in a hurry- thanks to last season’s preserves
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57
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69
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72
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ARTICHOKE BITTERS
A Bonny Doon homestead’s delicious spring tonic
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COVER
La Balena’s chef Brad Briske holding a chick at Fogline Farm, by Valery Rizzo
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CONTENTS
California garden snails, by Alanna Hale
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RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE:
19 Romanesco Salad with Roasted Garlic • 29 Very Chocolaty Chocolate Brownies • 41 Escargot and Salad with Crisped Pancetta and Sautéed Snails 54 Polenta Lasagna • On the Web: Butter Poached Green Garlic Butter and Green Garlic Ghee, Creamy Roasted Garlic Hummus, Roasted Spring Onion and Yogurt Dip, Eccentric Caesar Salad, Pickled Green Bean Three Bean Salad, Russian Style Beet Salad, Blossom’s Bitter Negroni and Jam Thumbprint Cookies (both with and without gluten), www.ediblemontereybay.com/recipes.