These recipes are inspired by Claribel Gallardo’s ability to create quick, vegetable-based dinners in her outdoor farm kitchen using produce from her fields. The salsa recipe is from Michoacán and pays homage to José Gallardo’s roots. It pairs perfectly with the rajas, and is a refreshing condiment for warm weather. The Gallardos grow the majority of the produce called for in these recipes, including the handful of blanched chard we threw into our masa for fresh, “green” tortillas, which Claribel makes with broccolini.
RAJAS POBLANAS WITH SHIITAKES AND LEEKS
4 poblano chiles
2 cups shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, caps sliced
3–4 small young leeks, green leaves removed, white stalks sliced into
½-inch half circles
Olive oil
Salt
1 cup shredded Jack cheese
½ cup crème fraîche, or more for a creamier mixture
Turn a burner to the highest setting and place the peppers, one by one, directly on the flame. Using tongs, turn the pepper until the skin is completely blackened. Place the hot peppers in a heat-proof bowl and cover, allowing the peppers to cool while their steam loosens their skin. Once the peppers have cooled down, remove the outer skin, slice them open and remove any seeds. Then chop the peppers into small strips.
Next sauté the leeks, chile strips and mushrooms in olive oil until the leeks are beginning to brown and the mushrooms are soft. Add the shredded cheese and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon to disperse the cheese, then add the crème fraîche and continue stirring to integrate the cream. Add more crème fraîche if desired, and salt to taste. Serves as taco fillings for 4.
AVOCADO SALSA MICHOACANA
Adapted from Margarita Carrillo Arronte’s Mexico: The Cookbook published by Phaidon
3 small tomatillos
1 Serrano chile, cut in half with seeds removed (use only ½ for less heat)
2 cloves garlic
2 small avocados, peeled, pit discarded
1 onion, roughly chopped
1 small handful fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems
Sea salt
Place the tomatillos in a small saucepan, cover with water and bring to boil for 5 minutes. Remove the tomatillos and reserve the cooking liquid.
Next, blend the avocado and vegetables until smooth, using the reserved cooking water to help thin the mixture if needed. Add salt to taste.
About the author
Emily Beggs is founder and lead chef of Kin & Kitchen, which specializes in ecologically-minded private chef services for clients throughout California. She has a background in the anthropology of food and nutrition, and the menus she develops meld wellness-promoting ancestral recipes with local ingredients to create intimate and nourishing feasts.
