PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICK TREGENZA, JESSICA TUNIS AND AMBER TURPIN
Is there a better way to enjoy a slow Sunday morning than with a leisurely pancake breakfast?
We think not. Folks have been enjoying pancakes in some form or another for centuries, across cultures. The earliest pancakes were likely cooked on a hot stone, unleavened and toothsome, way back in the Stone Age, but we’ve come a long way since then in terms of refined ingredients and cooking technology. Here are just a few of our favorite pancakes, but the genre is ripe for exploration and customization, along with some considerations to keep in mind, especially when substituting ingredients.
Flour choices: Pancakes can be made with an almost infinite variety of flours, but often wheat flour is added to enhance the texture and rising capabilities of the pancake.
When substituting gluten-free (GF) flours in place of wheat flour, be sure to use a GF flour mix that does not contain xanthan or guar gum, which can inhibit rising and make the pancake gluey rather than light and fluffy. GF flours tend to absorb moisture differently than wheat flour, so you may need to add more liquid until the batter is thin enough to spread slowly on the griddle. Coconut flour and added starches tend to make a heavier pancake. Some flours, like buckwheat, can make a lovely pancake all by themselves, without the addition of wheat flour, but it will still be denser and heavier than a pancake containing wheat flour.
Oil vs. butter: Melted butter adds a lovely, rich flavor to pancakes, but can be replaced by a neutral cooking oil in most cases, if a vegan option is preferred. While butter is often used as the cooking fat, a neutral, high-heat oil like avocado oil can make for more even cooking. Highheat oils will also last longer on the pan and will not burn between pancakes as butter might.
Eggs and dairy: For those substituting ingredients, use of ¼ cup applesauce in place of an egg will give similar results in terms of moisture and tenderness. Non-dairy milk can be substituted in place of whole milk, if desired. This is a good place to use up buttermilk or sour milk, if you have any that has gone bad in the fridge. The slight acidity makes for a flavorful pancake.
Wait: Resting the batter for 15 minutes after mixing will allow the baking powder time to permeate the batter, making for a fluffier pancake. In the case of the cornmeal pancakes, it will also soften the cornmeal.
Mixing: Mix the dry and liquid ingredients only as much as required to blend them together; a little lumpy is okay, even preferable to an over-mixed batter. Excessive mixing makes for rubbery rather than fluffy pancakes.
White Cheddar and Jalapeño Pancakes
These lovely pancakes are perfect for those who enjoy a marriage of sweet and savory, with a little twist of spicy jalapeño thrown in.
Buckwheat Buttermilk Flapjacks with Lemon Cream and Blueberries (GF)
The lemon cream that tops this breakfast is worth dolloping on everything from pancakes to pie, berries to bananas; make extra and dollop freely, as needed.
Cardamom Pancakes with Bananas
What to do with a spotted banana? This, this!
About the author
Amber Turpin and Jessica Tunis live with their respective families in the green folds of the Santa Cruz Mountains. They share a love of food and writing, adventure and good company. Their collaborations on these pages are a natural extension of many good times spent together, gathered in kitchens and backyards near and far.
