January 2, 2024 – When Katherine Stern left her head chef position at La Posta in 2018, fans of her seasonal Italian fare wondered what she would do next. The pandemic threw a wrench in Stern’s plans to open a brick-and-mortar of her own, but on December 29, the chef’s long-awaited first restaurant, The Midway, opened on Soquel Avenue, two doors down from the Rio Theater.
Housed in an airy, tastefully minimalist 850-square foot space, The Midway is Stern’s love letter to local food.
“The menu is completely market inspired,” she says. “Over the years I’ve developed relationships with our regional farmers and purveyors and what they’re growing and producing informs the dishes.”
Stern’s connection to the foodshed goes beyond her time at La Posta. A full-time resident of Santa Cruz since 2009, she was until recently a farmers market vendor herself. When Stern left La Posta, she immediately started looking for a space of her own in midtown, but the onset of the pandemic forced her to put her plans on hold.
“I started helping out at the farmer’s market where I worked closely with (Santa Cruz Community Farmers’ Markets director) Nesh Dhillon,” says Stern. “After telling him of my plans and it being the height of Covid, he suggested I open something at the market. The Midway stall debuted in September of 2020 and we were off and running, but I continued my search for the perfect permanent location.”
While operating The Midway stall at the Westside and Live Oak farmers markets, Stern started a yearlong Midway residency at Bad Animal. The three venues served to whet the public’s appetite for a permanent location for Stern’s rustic cuisine and craveable baked goods (her seasonal scones and tea cakes can be found at the new restaurant).
In 2022, Stern found the “ideal spot” next to the Rio, and the December 29th soft opening kicked off with a line of diners eager to tuck into signature dishes like housemade yogurt with seasonal preserves and spiced walnuts, Fogline Farms chicken and rice porridge with ginger, turmeric, and herbs, and honey-sour cream pancakes, this time served with poached pears, spiced raisins and almonds. Other opening menu items included, house smoked black cod toast, and a quinoa, kale, and sweet potato salad.
“Because our restaurant is a shoe box and storage is limited, the menu will remain small and change often,” says Stern. “Dishes that have become favorites at the farmers markets will continue to rotate on our brunch menu, and when we launch dinner service in a few weeks, diners can expect thoughtfully curated meals. I find inspiration from California and beyond, but the commitment to the ingredients will be a constant.”
In addition to coffee sourced from Delmarette Cafe, there’s an attractive wine list, mimosas with fresh-squeezed orange juice, Sante Adarius beers, and non-alcoholic options like housemade lemon verbena soda.
Stern and her husband Mark Brady designed the appealing interior, which seems poised to become not just a neighborhood spot but a town favorite. With just 30 seats, it’s a good idea to arrive early if the soft opening week is any indication.
“I’m so happy opening day has come and gone,” says Stern. “It’s been quite a journey, but now when people ask, I can finally say, ‘We’re open!’”
The Midway, 1209 Soquel Ave. Santa Cruz | @themidway_s_c
About the author
Laurel Miller is a food, spirits and travel writer and the former editor of Edible Aspen. She grew up on a California ranch and has been writing about regenerative agriculture for over 20 years. When she’s not tethered to her laptop, Miller enjoys farmers markets and any trip that requires a passport. She’ll take a Mission burrito over a Michelin star, any day.
