April 4, 2023 – David Fink is old-school.
He can be found reliably dappered up in nice suits and gracious in his interactions with everyone from anxious City Council-members to needy food festival-goers.
And, on this occasion, he’s old-school in penning an earnest letter to his longtime Cantinetta Luca loyalists.
Titled “A Fond Farewell,” the letter starts with a little history, then dishes the meat of the message.
The history: “Since September of 2006, when we first opened Cantinetta Luca, I have been humbled and honored at the response and support for the past 17 years. Our concept in the beginning was to create an authentic Italian dining experience, using the best local ingredients, curing salumi in house, hand-cutting our meats, and making all the pasta and breads. I am proud to say we achieved that.”
To be fair, Fink and his team did more than cut and cure.
They created a space my family went when the youngsters were loud (because the staff is understanding and the lively roar covers the chaos) and where I took newlyweds to have celebratory pasta and drinks (tagliatelle bolognese with salumi and veal, plus Chianti from the shapely wine list, please).
He sounds reluctant to indulge his audience when asked to get more philosophical about what Luca has meant in broader terms—part of which involves reinvigorating the most important restaurant street in Carmel, Dolores Avenue.
Fink instead acknowledges Italian restaurant pioneers before him, namely Raffaello’s Remo d’Agliano.
“If you go back in time and think of authentic Italian here in Carmel, it was all about [Remo],” he says. “Doing something simple but delicious, hand-made everything, like he used to do.”
Another legacy of Cantinetta and the Mirabel Hotel & Restaurant Group that resonates now and into the future: The group recruited tastemakers that have make Carmel-by-the-Sea a high-grade Italian food destination, including Emmanuele Bartolini and Giuseppe Panzuto, of standout spots La Balena and Il Tegamino, respectively.
“We had a lot of GMs and chefs that came and worked with us and then went out on their own, a lot of [whom] stayed here,” Fink says. “If [we] have a legacy down the road, it would be we brought that level of talent to Carmel.”
One outstanding member of that group changed the game at Luca. Fink and his chef/partner at the time, celebrated Los Angeles-based maestro Walter Manzke, know good food. But neither is Italian.
Enter Jason Balestrieri of southern Italy heritage, who grew up making gnocchi with his grandma.
“He wants the best ingredients made very simply to let the flavors come out,” Fink says. “He’s been doing that since he started with us. It’s a natural fit.”
That gets at the meat of the message. From the Farewell letter: “Our chef, Jason Balestrieri, helped open the doors back in 2006 and remained with our team for many years…so now it is time to reward Jason’s hard work and pass on Cantinetta Luca to him for its next chapter.”
Balestrieri assumes command in May.
“In the meantime come and see us in April to say hi, have a glass of wine and a bite,” the letter concludes. “I greatly appreciate all your support over the years. With gratitude to my wonderful team and with best wishes to chef Jason.”
For his part, Balestrieri isn’t going to ignite any dramatic overhauls.
He’s more centered on elevating the cocktail program, freshening the wine list with more Italian offerings and frequent rotations, and reinforcing the foundation around go-to items like the bistecca Fiorentina.
“From a food standpoint, we’re sticking to our guns—fresh house-made pastas and the wood-burning oven spitting out Neapolitan style pizzas, being seasonal and focusing on local,” he says. “It’s a continuation.”
On the management side, he has new front-of-house staff in place and anticipates embracing freedom away from the stove.
“Being shackled to the stove makes it difficult to get out and meet the customers who have been your biggest supporters over the years,” he says, “and talk to people one on one.”
Balestrieri also sounds engaged with the challenge of a regime change.
“I’ve worked with X number of chef-owners, and been part of X number of openings, arranging everything from plumbing to seating,” he says. “I learned a few lessons there.”
His final thought is comforting and promising for a landmark spot.
“We’re not going to reinvent the wheel, but we’re not going to settle for the status quo,” he says, “We’re going to bring something fresh.”
About the author
Mark C. Anderson, Edible Monterey Bay's managing editor, appears on "Friday Found Treasures" via KRML 94.7 every week, a little after 12pm noon. Reach him via mark@ediblemontereybay.com.
