June 28, 2016 – There is a reason celebrations are paired with champagne. Opening a champagne bottle, particularly if we let the cork fly, affects us like fireworks, with a pop and a whoosh, and a spray of stars that rain down around us. It matches the soaring emotions that accompany achievement, like getting married, graduating from school, having a baby, landing the job, winning the race, the tournament, the lottery.
A toast to Dom Perignon, the monk credited with discovering the fermentation glitch which resulted in the release of CO2 that blew corks right out of their bottles. He, too, celebrated his achievement with a glass of champagne.
Champagne is flirty, festive and fun. It is sophisticated, sparkly and sexy. And, like a beautiful woman, it can go to your head.
To be clear, although sparkling wine, that effervescent wine made from chardonnay, pinot noir or pinot meunier grapes, is produced all over the world, to call it champagne, it must have been sourced in the region of Champagne, France, just outside of Paris. And, back in the day, many of the exquisite champagne houses were helmed by women, or veuves; widows who took over the operation when their husbands died. Consider the provenances of Veuve Clicquot, Laurent-Perrier and Pommery. Madame Clicquot is celebrated as one of the more successful female entrepreneurs in history.
In Monterey County, an area known for winemaker dinners that pair the region’s fine wines with creative cuisine, Porter’s in the Forest restaurant decided to elevate the sense of celebration with champagne. Not only will they pair French sparkling wines with festive food, but they also will engage guests to vote on their favorite champagne.
It’s all in good fun, festive drinking and fine dining. Wednesday, July 6, Porter’s, located at Poppy Hills Golf Course in Pebble Beach, is hosting “Battle of the Bubbles,” an intimate four-course champagne dinner, featuring varietals of Veuve Clicquot and Moet & Chandon (which does not include their best-known label, Dom Perignon.)
“People are always looking for the next great winemaker dinner, so we were looking to do something outside the box,” said Joe Valencia, food and beverage manager at Porter’s. “When our wine rep suggested a champagne dinner based on the houses he represents, we knew we had a special idea.”
“Our chef, Johnny De Vivo, is so creative, we got him involved to create a complementary menu. Most people imagine champagne paired with caviar. With Johnny, who knows what he’s going to do. No matter what, the result is going to be a very festive event,” he adds.
The evening will open at 6:30pm with a short reception, where guests will be served a glass of crisp champagne and an “amuse bouche” or specialty hors d’oeuvre. The champagne dinner will commence at 7pm, and each of the four courses will be accompanied by two different glasses of champagne.
Champagne and food pairings will include:
Teaser
House Spun Carrot & Ginger Cotton Candy
Let’s Get Ready To Rumble
Summer Corn Croquette’s (Moet & Chandon Imperial Brut)
Sparring Partner
Caviar with Traditional Condiments – Chef’s Version (Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label)
Under Card
Nori Roasted Tuna, Pickled Cherries, Champagne Ponzu, Ogo Salad (Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage 2006)
Main Event
Organic Fried Chicken, Charred Broccoli, Champagne Fennel Puree, Chicken Jus (Veuve Clicquot Rose Vintage 2008)
The Champion
Honey Verbena Semifreddo, Compressed Melon, Brown Butter (Veuve Clicquot Demi-Sec)
As guests vote on their favorite sip, it will be interesting to determine whether they are responding to the appeal of the champagne or the pairing in each course.
“Either way,” said Valencia, “we believe the attraction to the event will be trifold; guests will come to enjoy Chef Johnny’s food, to taste this exceptional champagne, and to experience the pairing.”
Valencia says such winemakers’ meals work best in a more intimate setting, where guests can share the experience with one another. So, he anticipates no more than 30 to 40 guests.
Named in honor of former NCGA CEO the late Paul Porter, the renovated restaurant reopened in the new year with a fresh menu focused on California artisanal cuisine, based on local and regional products, prepared in house. Chef De Vivo, former executive chef for Casanova and La Bicyclette in Carmel, joined Porter’s in 2014. And Valencia, former general manager of Rio Grill Restaurant in Carmel, joined Porter’s last fall.
Porter’s in the Forest ∙ 3200 Lopez Rd, Pebble Beach ∙ (831) 622-8237
What: Battle of the Bubbles Dinner
Where: Porter’s in the Forest, 3200 Lopez Rd, Pebble Beach
When: Wednesday, July 6, 6:30pm
Cost: $125 per person
Contact: (831) 622-8237
Champagne facts:
Champagne is made from three grapes: chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier. A few other varieties are permitted in very small doses but are not regularly incorporated into the sparking mix. It is during the second fermentation when yeast and sugar are added to encourage the sparkle. To be classified as a champagne, the wine must be left for a minimum of 18 months on the lees (yeast deposits or sediment in the wine barrel) in order to develop to maturity. This time frame is one of the many factors that increases the prices of these carefully crafted spirits.
When choosing a champagne for celebrations, consider the following characteristics. ‘Blanc de Blancs’ (white from white) refers to champagne made purely from chardonnay grapes. Expect a lighter wine with classic yeasty flavors and hints of lemon peel and brioche. ‘Blanc de Noir’ (white from black) is made from black pinot noir and pinot meunier grapes. These grapes will encourage the fruitier notes in the champagne, making it more suitable for drinking with food.
‘Vintage’ (V) on the label means wines from the same year have been used to make the wine, whereas ‘non-vintage’ (NV) means wines from different years were used. Champagne also varies by how dry or sweet it is. Look for these words on the label: ‘brut’ (dry), ‘brut naturel’ (very dry), and ‘doux’ (sweet).
About the author
A fifth-generation Northern Californian, Lisa Crawford Watson has enjoyed a diverse career in business, education and writing. She lives with her family on the Monterey Peninsula, where her grandmother once lived and wrote. An adjunct writing instructor for CSU Monterey Bay and Monterey Peninsula College, Lisa is also a free-lance writer, who specializes in the genres of art & architecture, health & lifestyle, food & wine. She has published various books and thousands of feature articles and columns in local and national newspapers and magazines.
