April 7, 2014 – John Schoch rises regularly before the first light to milk his cows, some 100 purebred Holsteins, at the Schoch Family Farmstead in Salinas. His son, Beau, works with the raw milk while still warm, separating the curds and whey to make artisan cheese. It is this cheese—East of Edam, Junipero, Jack—that Beau brought to the second in a series of four “Meet the Farmer” luncheons held April 5 at the Hyatt Carmel Highlands as part of “Forks, Corks, Action 2014.”
“This series of culinary events is a celebration of our local farms and local food,” said Dave Lambert, director of Sales and Marketing for the Hyatt Carmel Highlands. “Our vision is to create an interactive, educational, inspirational experience for our guests, which is in natural alignment with our beneficiary, MEarth. A portion of our proceeds benefits this nonprofit environment-based education program, located at Carmel Middle School.”
There’s something inspiring about spontaneity on a Saturday. When the opportunity arose at the last minute to attend the “Meet the Farmer” luncheon, I shut down the computer, skipped Zumba, slipped into something snazzy, and traded my Saturday routine for the rain-washed view of the ocean from Pacific’s Edge at the Hyatt Carmel Highlands.
As guests were greeted by Wine Director Paul Fried and Restaurant Manager Jacques Melac, the event began with a wine-and-cheese reception, presented by Pessagno Winery and Schoch Family Farmstead. An artful display of artisan cheeses, dried fruits, marcona almonds and candied pecans was augmented by a passed mini Croque Monsieur of housemade brioche, East of Edam cheese, and a slim Spanish-style chorizo on a twisted bamboo toothpick. The fare was pared with a 2012 Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay from Pessagno Winery.
After meeting and mingling, some 25 guests were invited to sit at either of two tables flanking the glassed-in dining room overlooking a cerulean sea sparkling in the sunlight—a welcome break in the storm. Executive Chef Matt Bolton introduced our first course, a spring salad of Swank Farms asparagus out of Hollister, served with sweet, nutty mache lettuce, duck prosciutto, East of Edam cheese, and pine nuts, adorned with spring onion flowers, and drizzled with a light balsamic reduction. The salad was paired with Pessagno’s 2012 Pinot Noir from Central Avenue Vineyard, introduced by Anthony Pessagno, an artist who works with the family business and designed the company’s website and logo.
During the first course, MEarth Executive Director Andrea Lewis thanked the Hyatt Carmel Highlands for their support, and explained that MEarth serves some 2,000 children per year via the school district, community partnerships and Boys & Girls Clubs of Monterey County.
“Through our 10-acre habitat at Carmel Middle School,” said Lewis, “we teach kids about being better environmental stewards—how to protect it, how to grow food from seeds, and how to harvest it, cook it or shop for it, making good choices for themselves at the market. Through our bird sanctuary, native plants and outdoor kitchen, we bring the indoor classroom to life outdoors, which helps us grow the next generation of environmental leaders through education, collaboration, partnerships and community action.”
Saturday, May 3, from 10am to 4pm, MEarth will host its annual MEarth Day at the Hilton Bialek Habitat adjacent Carmel Middle School. Just $5 at the gates for anyone over 12, the “Local + Green” sustainability fair will present exhibitions, organic food—including salads from the habitat garden and pizza from their outdoor wood-burning oven—a spring plant sale, eco kid zone, silent auction and live music to create a community celebration in support of MEarth and the message of sustainability.
Chef Bolton introduced the second course as it was being served, a Kobe “Eye” of the Ribeye from Snake River Farms, on a bed of cauliflower gratin made with Schoch Farms Jack cheese and raw milk béchamel, with Chanterelle mushrooms and green garlic purée. The entrée was paired with Pessagno’s 2011 Zinfandel from Idyll Times Vineyard.
“Using local grapes out of Hollister,” says Pessagno, “our Zinfandel is lighter, has lower alcohol and is not super fruity. I’ve had a lot of Ribeye with Zin and it always works well.”
The luncheon was crowned with a lavender Crème Brûlee, made with Schoch Farms hand-skimmed cream from raw whole milk, plus a “little bit of local lavender,” said Chef Bolton, and topped with fresh local berries and a crisp almond tuille.
“As I was making cheese,” said Schoch, “I let the warm milk sit and the cream rise, then I hand-ladled it for the whipped cream.” The effect was incredibly light, smooth and a little sweet. And the dessert was paired with a stem of 2010 late harvest orange Muscat, made by Anthony’s father, Steve Pessagno.
“This is quite a special luncheon,” remarked local guest Mary Casper who, with husband Art Casper, won their seats at auction during the Morgan Winemaker dinner at Hyatt Carmel Highlands in March. “I usually have something very simple. What a treat to meet the farmers and vintners who provided it.” Indeed.
About the author
A fifth-generation Northern Californian, Lisa Crawford Watson has enjoyed a diverse career in business, education and writing. She lives with her family on the Monterey Peninsula, where her grandmother once lived and wrote. An adjunct writing instructor for CSU Monterey Bay and Monterey Peninsula College, Lisa is also a free-lance writer, who specializes in the genres of art & architecture, health & lifestyle, food & wine. She has published various books and thousands of feature articles and columns in local and national newspapers and magazines.
