Doon to Earth Returns, This Time to Aptos

February 3, 2023 – If ever there was the epitome of a “Grape Escape,” it would be the story of Randall Grahm, who has never let an interesting grape escape his grasp. Wrestling them into some form of marketable wine has often been a challenge, but for that he has, and in this century, always has had, Nicole Walsh.  

Although Grahm sold the Bonny Doon brand off to the War Room in 2020, his influence never really waned. And the fact that Walsh was still making all the Bonny Doon wines, including all the mass market ones, as well as her own wines for Ser, not to mention the Popelouchum wines from the San Juan Bautista property where Grahm is growing a range of fascinating varieties (Ruche and Grenache Gris among them), led to the idea that maybe combining them under one tasting room umbrella, or under the gleam of one large flying saucer, might make sense. 

The concept was to create one central spot where DEWNsters and earthlings could gather to enjoy the many fruits of one very talented winemaker, albeit under different labels with various degrees of levity, from zero to infinite chaos theory. 

It has now come to fruition at Doon to Earth, a multi-experience tasting room in Aptos where Walsh originally opened Ser. Guests are greeted by familiar artifacts from past incarnations of the Bonny Doon tasting room, which has pilgrimaged or perhaps crusaded, to various places of worship over the decades, including the original “Lost Weekend” cabin in Bonny Doon, where Beauregard Vineyards has long their tasting room and adjacent winery, and to the coastal charm of Davenport, where Beauregard’s wine bar currently operates.

Doon to Earth’s wine list is eclectic and elective, so that visitors can chart their own path, or follow a few “prix fixe” menu selections, if you will. 

Walsh is thrilled and honestly, a bit relieved. “When Bonny Doon was sold to the War Room, I thought I would really be able to focus on Ser,” she says. “But they wanted me to stay on making Bonny Doon wines. I had a viable plan for Ser, but that takes a whole lot of time. I was essentially working two jobs, and then Covid hit.”

The War Room had the idea of creating new wine labels that would tell a shared story of Walsh and Grahm in pursuit of oddball grapes and styles. To support this concept, Bonny Doon’s wine club, D.E.W.N., (“Distinctive Explorative Wine Network”), is back in action. 

“It’s centered around the concept of showing different varieties and approaches that appeal to different palates. The entire concept is exploration,” says Walsh.

Walsh is stoked at the chance to create new wines and focus on the vineyards and the winemaking, and not running the tasting room. That’s all being handled by the War Room folks. 

She admits everything is still a work in progress, but the Bonny Doon faithful are making their way to Aptos and discovering that many of the Bonny Doon wines they were so used to getting in their club shipments of old still exist, Vin Gris de Cigare, which varies a bit from year to year, and for 2021 is a mouthwatering blend of 47% Cinsault, 42% Grenache, 6.5% Grenache Blanc and 4.5% Clairette Blanche that exudes strawberry and guava. Walsh says for 2022 she used some skin contact in the press, for a bit more texture.  

And there’s a lot more, for example 2020 OVNI (L’object Volant Non Identifié, $34.99), a delightful dry sparkling rosé wine made from Grenache, and the very dry and spicy food friendly 2021 Popelouchum San Benito Estate Grenaches, made of Grenache Gris and Grenache Blanc, which was utterly amazing with a balsamic dressed salad heavy on the blue cheese. Walsh says it’s aces with spicy Thai as well. 

Grahm also poured me the 2021 Popelouchum San Benito Estate Pinot Noir, which is lean, high-toned and tight, yet shows evidence of red fruits and a good spicy element.

As always, the Bonny Doon labels seek to amuse and educate while providing enjoyment through solidly made wines that are excellent values. The 2022 Le Ciagare Blanc, White Wine of the Earth, is mostly Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Orange Muscat, whereas the 2021 is mostly Vermentino. “I want this wine to be the best white blend I can make each vintage,” says Walsh. So be ready for variation. 

The Ser label will continue to be Walsh’s professional art studio, where she brings her love of discovering new vineyards and fermentation methods to bear. Take the new Orange Muscat sparkling wine under the Ser label, made in the méthode Champenoise style—very dry and crisp, with fine bubbles and a delicate orange perfume aroma. 

She also has two wonderful versions of her wild child favorite, Enz Vineyard Cabernet Pfeffer, one from new vines (35 years old) and one from old vines (134 years old), and an outstanding 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon from a vineyard in the Los Altos Hills that has all the steady-handed elegance of a young Bordeaux with room to grow, filled with menthol, blackberry and licorice. 

The 2020 Ser Rio Del Mar Pinot Noir, planted to the Le Tache clone, some 667, 777 and Pommard, is a thing of high-toned fruit, all cherry, cranberry and pomegranate. “The fruit from this vineyard has such tiny clusters,” says Walsh. It’s redolent of cinnamon stick, orange peel, balsam and Asian five spice.  

Among Grahm’s favorites are the 2021 Central Coast Le Cigare Volant, Red Wine of the Earth, comprised of 65% Grenache, 18% Syrah, 15% Cinsault and 2% Petite Sirah. At $17.99, it’s a bargain, and the label will entertain, with its depiction of a Jules Vern spaceship, rendered in 1870.  Also the 2021 Picpoul from Beeswax and Nolan Vineyards, which is racy and fun, with a refreshing cleanliness that makes it a favorite of French picnic goers.  But he’s truly excited about the Clairette Blanche from Beeswax Vineyard that’s in the works. They just need to sort the label out. 

While the original Bonny Doon labels were works of inspired brilliance, it’s easy to get carried away trying to emulate genius.  Good thing Nicole Walsh has a steady hand on the tiller, or whatever you use to guide a cigar-shaped spaceship. 

Doon To Earth • 10 Parade St. Suite B • Aptos • For hours: bonnydoonvineyard.com