April 19, 2022 – There are few things sadder than watching someone with great talent not be able to fully capitalize on it. But then, not all of us are business people. Sometimes what starts out as a dream becomes fully actualized in terms of personal gratification, but never reaches the critical mass necessary to become a commercial success. I can think of many examples, but none quite so poignant as that of Scott Sisemore of Waxwing Wines. Some people start making wine with friends as a social hobby: some because they were told by friends that their wines were great. Others fall in love with vineyards, compelled to reveal their stories through the crafting of great wines, like Michelangelo slowly uncovering a figure hidden in a slab of marble.
Sisemore began working in the wine industry more than 30 years ago. He has a B.S. in microbiology from Oregon State University and an M.S. in viticulture and
enology from U.C. Davis. His impressive worldwide winemaking resume includes a 7-year tenure in Mendocino, working for Billy Crawford, doing custom crush, followed by stints in India and Chile as well as with Ravenswood Winery and Rosenblum Cellars here in California. Just prior to founding Waxwing, Scott served as associate winemaker at Pelligrini Family Vineyards, a job he left in 2006 to stay home with his newborn son.
By 2007, Sisemore had put together the concept for his own winery, which he called Waxwing after the elegant Cedar Waxwing birds that feast on berries in Northern California in the spring and fall. The label is just beautiful, showing an adult male with grape bunches in the background. He chose to work with the cool climate varieties he loved, namely Pinot Noir, Syrah and Riesling from vineyards with coastal influence. He picked earlier than most, using few additions, and aging in barrels whose once loud oak voices had been hushed by someone else’s prior use.
Initially, he rented space at Domenico Winery in San Carlos and then moved the operation to an industrial warehouse space in Belmont. It was a tiny, tidy spot suited to the cerebral nature of this man, who patiently foot-tread every lot of grapes. Everything was done by hand, and foot, with love and patience and care. You could taste the devotion.
Over the years, Sisemore developed great relationships with growers: he would only make wines from exceptional fruit, and the results were always precise and thoughtful. Vineyard owners were proud to have their names appear on his labels. Among the vineyards he sourced from were Coastview (Monterey), Deerheart (San Gregorio, San Mateo), Flochinni (Sonoma Coast), Lester Family (Corralitos) and
Tondré Grapefields (Santa Lucia Highlands).
His cool climate Sonoma Coast Syrahs were sinewy vanguards of white pepper and plum, making them cellar candidates. They evolve each year. His sparkling Riesling made from Tondré Grapefields, is a thing of beauty, and his rosés always captured the perfect essence of fruit. The Riesling has a good story. Owner Joe Alarid planted the Riesling vines in 2006, just as other growers were pulling out large blocks of Riesling from the AVA. He only has 3 acres of it, but it’s magic.
Sisemore garnered great scores, made some good restaurant placements, grew a following of loyal fans, but his lack of a real tasting room with consistent hours hindered him. Tasting only on occasional Friday nights, in a chilly, fog-framed parking lot was less than ideal, although his fervent followers showed up regularly. Because he had to help his kids with homework or take them to sports practice, his schedule was limited, meaning it was hard to participate in many wine events that occurred on weekends. His wife has a busy job in biotech and works insane hours. Yet, he juggled it all without complaint.
He wanted to find a part time winemaking job in the region, but the right fit just didn’t materialize: too bad, as he would have been an asset to any winery with an emphasis on quality wine that transparently translates terroir. And then, the pandemic hit hard. It was that final straw.
In an email to his list, he announced late last week that he was closing the doors with mixed emotions and moving on to a new phase of his life. To supplement his income, he began substitute teaching last year, sharing with 4th and 5th graders the joys of chemistry and biology three days a week. He finds it both exhausting and rewarding. “Teaching is for younger people!” Meanwhile, he’s been interviewing with local bioscience companies who seem interested in his extensive chemistry and fermentation science background. Here’s hoping they know what a gift they’ve been granted.
Sisemore is selling his remaining inventory at 50% off, sold only by the case (12 bottles/case). You are welcome to mix up a case any way you like and take as many as can fit in your car. Now is the time to stock your cellar with Waxwing’s final vintages at a great price. If you can’t stop by, you can order via the website with shipping.
Waxwing Inventory Clearance Dates
Saturday, April 23, Winery, 1 to 4 pm
Saturday, May 14, Winery, 1 to 4 pm
Award Winning Wines
As I wrote in Edible Monterey Bay in 2021, Sisemore has garnered great scores for his wines, including:
95 Points 2018 Waxwing Lester Family Vineyard Syrah
94 Points 2018 Waxwing Lester Family Vineyard Pinot Noir
93 Points 2018 Waxwing Deerheart Vineyard Pinot Noir
95 Points 2010 Waxwing Deerheart Vineyard Pinot Noir
92 Points 2018 Waxwing Coastview Vineyard Syrah; 94 points, Grapelive
92 Points 2017 Waxwing Lester Family Vineyard Syrah
92 Points 2017 Waxwing Cuvée Bohème Three Vineyard Syrah Blend
94 points 2019 Waxwing Coastview Vineyard Syrah, Monterey County
Let’s begin with the 2018 Lester Family Vineyard Syrah, a phenomenally en pointe execution of this grape from one of the best vineyards to grow it in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Vivid scents of cedar, juniper berries, peppercorns, plum sauce and a roaring pinon bonfire fill your nostrils, a clue this is no wimpy wine. It’s a veritable flood of raspberry balsamic, pine essence, dried fig, graphite, juniper berries, exotic cardamom, Asian Five-spice and fine cigar tobacco. Lamb grilled with juniper and tarragon over a cedar fire would be a perfect pairing. Truly outstanding stuff.
Sisemore also nailed the 2018 Waxwing Lester Pinot Noir. Many winemakers get a crack at this vineyard, but he makes what is often the most precise expression of that vineyard, capturing its vast tonal range. There is no such thing as too many notes. Bright with red fruits, leaning towards cranberry and pomegranate, this wine evokes autumnal flavors, including chestnut puree. Complex and lithe, it resonates like a cello in a concert hall.
Swoonworthy, though, is his Deerheart Vineyard Pinot Noir, from a young marine-influenced vineyard that really shows spunk and horsepower. The 2018 is powerful stuff, starting off with slate, laden blackberry bushes, a summer forest hit with sunlight, baking summer weeds on a hillside, and rye bread fresh from the oven. Lovely black raspberry, porcini mushrooms, ripe mission fig and date nut bread show up on the palate, which is blessed with big natural acid and tremendous textural complexity. At the time, Sisemore was the only winemaker getting grapes from this rising star of a vineyard, owned by Bob and JoAnn Larson. The site borders La Honda Open Space Preserve and is planted to six different clones. One block is trellised just 18” above the earth to capture the heat reflected from the soil, a common sight in France. This wine was aged for 10 months in once-used French barrels: all its richness is inherent in the fruit. Scott got grapes from Deerheart in 2019, and thereafter, it has gone to Robert Bergstrom of Sandar & Hem and Nate Kandler at Fogarty.
It’s a shame this young vineyard will not have this steady handed composer arranging its notes into still more thoughtfully crafted compositions.
Sisemore ended his farewell email with these words: “As I say goodbye, I’d like to thank you for drinking my wines and supporting Waxwing. Establishing my own wine brand has been a dream come true and I will be forever grateful for the opportunity.”
Actually, Scott, it is us who should thank you: for making wines of finesse, nobility and grace, for shining your own beam of light on the area’s vineyards, illuminating their nuances and revealing their true potential. Thank you most of all for sharing your life’s passion with us. Your legacy will live long in the bottle.
Scott Sisemore, Waxwing Cellars
111 Industrial Rd, unit 8, Belmont
415-902-3468, scott@waxwingwines.com
About the author
Laura Ness is a longtime wine journalist, columnist and judge who contributes regularly to Edible Monterey Bay, Spirited, WineOh.Tv, Los Gatos Magazine and Wine Industry Network, and a variety of consumer publications. Her passion is telling stories about the intriguing characters who inhabit the fascinating world of wine and food.
