ILLUSTRATION BY ZEPHYR PFOTENHAUER
Why the flour shelves are empty
It’s early morning and as I admire the billowy bowl of sourdough starter on my countertop, caffeine gradually brings the rest of the kitchen into focus. There is a bit of flour on every horizontal surface in the room—everywhere. Have I channeled my father? The scene definitely brings me back to the epically floury kitchens of my childhood, where my engineer dad lost himself entirely in the joy of weekend breadbaking projects.
His delight was contagious, and so in my preteens, I baked a lot of bread myself. But never sourdough, and after I left home, not another loaf.
Then the pandemic happened. Not coincidentally, friends—lawyers, fundraisers, all kinds of friends!—under stay-at-home orders due to the … Read More