September 24, 2024 – There are a lot of interlaced storylines that make the opening of Maido Sushi Cafe in Marina much bigger news than its humble square footage—and location in the back corner of a strip mall—would suggest.
One, it’s a culmination—and extension—of its long and popular run at area farmers markets that started when Al Gore was a working politician and Hiroko Yamaji was pregnant with Ambie, who now runs the register (and a lot more).
That was back in 2000. Fear not, appearances at Pacific Grove, Old Monterey, Hollister, Oldtown Salinas and Marina farmers markets will continue.
Two, it means a lot to Marina to get a solid sushi option, as longtime resident/advertising executive/public servant Carrie Kuhl reminds me over rolls.
“Marina has needed a new option for casual sushi that’s easy on the wallet for a while,” she says. “Their food truck at the Sunday Marina Farmers Market wasn’t enough to satiate us through the rest of the week.”
Kuhl and I shared well-sauced tofu-miso-avocado, shrimp tempura and spicy tuna rolls and had more than enough to eat. The attention to detail in the rice seasoning proved indicative of chef and Osaka native Koichi Shuraku’s 40 years prepping sushi.
Related note: He’s also Yamaji’s husband, and Ambie’s dad.
The sushi options are simple, sturdy and made-to-order: sixteen straightforward rolls with a little flair ($5-$13), four nigiri options ($5-$7), three poke bowls ($17), miso soup ($4-$5) and chirashi bowls ($28).
I will be back for that last number, a big sushi rice bowl with (inhale) maguro, salmon, saba, hamachi, scallop, ebi, tamago, shiitake, tobiko, ikura, cucumber and lemon, $28, which isn’t available at the markets.
Three, it does capital-O Outstanding beverage work. This was a plot twist I wasn’t expecting, but also a primary reason I heard about the place.
Melanie Wong, my cohort on the Monterey County Food System Coalition and one of the most connected individuals in the area when it comes to small business and family restaurants, flagged the coffee specifically when she messaged me Maido was open.
“I was surprised to learn that the owner will be serving ‘third wave coffee’!” she emailed. “Shuraku’s been a home roaster for years and we had a pretty deep discussion about his philosophy.”
Which sent me on a research run. The term “third wave” was coined by Wrecking Ball Coffee Roasters founder Trish Rothgeb in the early 00s to reflect a graduation from the mass production/commercialization era (or the “first wave,” circa 1800s-mid-1900s) and the boom of specialty coffee like Starbucks (second wave, 1970s-1990s).
The Third Wave Movement emphasizes quality, craftsmanship and an evolved appreciation for the entire coffee making process, endorsing small independent shops who source, roast and brew mindfully, unconcerned if intricate processes take a little longer.
At Maido that means roasting in house—Shuraku himself graduated from enthusiast to experienced roaster—and resting the beans before roasting and only upon customer order measuring and grinding for pour-overs.
As a placard on the counter concludes, to “bring you the best cup possible.”
“I love coffee so much—all my life I drank it…so I learned to roast my own,” says Shuraku, who started out toasting coffee with a camping stove and a pan and now uses a 1-kilo roaster. “I love the aroma, all the characteristics of different origins, and caffeine too!”
On our visit, varying roasts went with beans from Ethiopia, Brazil and Tanzania. (I had an iced medium roast Brazil and it was excellent.)
The kokuto, matcha and hojicha lattes, meanwhile, deploy hand-whisked powders from Japan and the selection of teas also use leaves imported from the island nation. The beverage lineup also includes grab-and-go options in the cooler like Calico lychee, with neighboring imported desserts treats also packaged for a quick exit.
The fourth and final storyline serves as my favorite: the nuclear family behind it.
After our meal I asked Ambie Yamaji about taking a few photos. As I did, she told me she’s worked for the family business—which includes a brisk catering trade—her whole life.
She smiles and nods at the other two behind the counter, adding, “I mean, those are my parents.”
Maido Sushi Cafe is open 11am-7pm Thursday-Monday at 265 Reservation Road, Unit U, in Marina. More at the Maido website and Maido Instagram page.
About the author
Mark C. Anderson, Edible Monterey Bay's managing editor, appears on "Friday Found Treasures" via KRML 94.7 every week, a little after 12pm noon. Reach him via mark@ediblemontereybay.com.
